HugoW

Well, it runs! I drove yesterday with M-grips all around. Soft inserts rear, hard ones in the front. I have grip! I tried the shorty lipo in various positions, but finally decided on the full size heavy 5300mAh pack. This seems the best option, the extra weight doesn't hurt the accelleration too much and it certainly helps the grip. I drove a lot of laps with the car, this is the set-up I will use for the first race in February. I brought my camera to film the last run, but in the second to last run the car stopped in the middle of the track and wouldn't budge. I picked it up, steering worked, motor spun freely, but the rear wheels didn't and they were blocked. This is not good. I took the motor out, it was a bit hot, pinion still on properly and it looked good. Next I took the lid of the gear box, and there was the problem. The smaller part of the middle gear was melted away completely. Most of it was welded to the next gear, the rest of it to the motor plate. Not good. I have a badly lit picture:



I packed up the M stuff and did the last sessions with my TT-01, which I also race and I was testing that yesterday, too. At home in the evening I found the inside ball bearing had seized up. This could be result of the melted plastic, but I think it is the other way around. The bearing seized and that caused the plastic gear to melt. I need new gears, shafts and bearings, and a new motor plate. I might upgrade the last one to aluminium. It would't hurt, although I don't think it is a huge performance upgrade.

Anyway, a good day except for the bearing failure. I also practiced a lot on VRC Pro on the computer, and I was a lot betetr driver at this track since I drove there twoo weeks ago. Practice does help.

Cheers,

Hugo

ruebiracer

Hi Hugo,
bad experience with the bearing, but that is a failure like a Lotto Jackpot.
Probably you will have it never again!
Better in the training, than in the race.
How did you come to the M-Grip Combo? Did you try the S-Grips, too?
If I remember right, your trck is indoor tarmac?

Good luck for the upcoming race!
Br,
Matthias

HugoW

This indoor track is a mixed carpet one. I tried the S-grips last time, complete failure. This combo I learned from a local racer, and it works well. I will soon order the new bits, and hopefully it will indeed be a one time affair.

Cheers,

Hugo

ruebiracer

Thanks Hugo, now I remember your carpet mix track! Good to know this Tire combo!
And to calm you down: I didnīt have a failure like you on this gear in all my M-chassis since the M02. Usually itīs always the Spur gear, that can be stripped in a hard crash situation on sticky surfaces...

Merry christmas!
Maybe Santa brings spare parts...

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I have the aluminium motor mount. I bought it because I was having alignment issues with the gears. I race on asphalt so the bottom does not look pretty anymore.. otherwise it is a good option to have.

Bad luck on the gears... not much you can do with a bad bearing.. they don't let you know until its too late. I do recommend coating the gears with a cycling product called Finishline Ceramic Dry Wax. It bonds with the gears and gives them a thin coat and repels dirt.

HugoW

Well, looking at prices and the fact I run a basic Cup Machine motor only, I decided not to buy the aluminium one, yet. I ordered some bits and pieces from Banzai and included the gears, bearing, shafts, and the plastic set for teh gearbox. All very cheap.

Here's a clip of my TT-01 on the mixed carpet track. Unfortunately the camera was pointing a bit sideways, so my yellow Ferrari is hardly visable. But you can see how narrow the track is. Imagine we were on track with 14 cars at peak.

+ YouTube Video

Hugo

hispeedguy

iTrader: (37)

I am running the TRF dampers all around on my M06. I just put the collars down until they are almost bottomed out on the shaft.
It is not what I'm accustomed to, but it seems to work fine.

hispeedguy

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the video. Nice track!
FYI, I use CowRC Moo-Slick for my bearing lube. It sprays on and dries.
I've had awesome luck w/ bearing life in on road, off road and carpet oval using the Moo-Slick.
http://www.cowrc.com/store/#!/Silico...=0&sort=normal
Our indoor on road season is about over, so Im going to try and get a couple more wins then its over. Before next season though, I'll probably upgrade some steering components and hubs to the aluminum and add the aluminum motor plate. I haven't had any serious issues w/ heat, although when the grip comes up, my motor comes off around 130 degrees after 6 minute main.

rudeboy03

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the link i think ill try some of this stuff out on my RWD chassis

d3nisL

Hello everybody,

I am new in M-chassis adventure. I build a M06 basic and, even if I did not try it yet I love It !!!!!

I plan to use the tamiya esc include in the kit (tbl02s) with a 17.5 brushless motor.
The body is not finish for the moment (it is the bettle).

I read 90% of the threads but I have not find an answer to my question :
I followed the instructions and at the end there is a lot of movement (left to right / right to left) in the rear and front axle. Is it ok or may I have to put shimes ?

Because of these movements (the same on the arms) i have the fear to not be able to drive straight ?

HugoW

Bonjour, bien venue a RC Tech! Yes, it is a good idea to shim out the car. I did and it makes a big difference on tight tracks. You need 5mm shims for the wheel axles, and 3mm ones for the suspension:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53587
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53585

Don't make it too tight. My car had almost a full millimeter on the front axles, now it has about 0,1mm.

Do post your car, we (I) love pictures!

Hugo

funked1

iTrader: (10)

I realize this is the wrong forum but I am looking to buy a used M-06 Pro or M-06R.

d3nisL

The quality of the picture is very poor. i will try to do better

d3nisL

And here with the body

d3nisL

Hugo, thank you for informations. Do you have any pics to show me (us) where and how you put the shims ?