R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-19-2014, 12:31 AM   #1561
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 224
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
...

Tyres: the m chassis S, M, and H radials are good for track that has medium to low traction. Insert: i use the blue on the S grip and the standard grey (firm) on the m and h compound.
...
OK, I must be missing something...

M-grip:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50684-m...?cPath=35_1386

S-grip:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53254-m...?cPath=35_1386

H?? I cannot find those. The only other radials I can find are these:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50683-m...?cPath=35_1386
Are those H?

I've already copied the rest of your set-up!

Thanks!

Hugo
HugoW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2014, 12:52 AM   #1562
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,902
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HugoW View Post
OK, I must be missing something...

M-grip:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50684-m...?cPath=35_1386

S-grip:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53254-m...?cPath=35_1386

H?? I cannot find those. The only other radials I can find are these:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50683-m...?cPath=35_1386
Are those H?

I've already copied the rest of your set-up!

Thanks!

Hugo
Yes the H are 50683
__________________
TRF419X / Pulse 17.5, T.O.P Racing Sabre Mini AWD / Impact 21.5, M06 Pro / Impact 21.5, XV-01 Pro Rallye / Kinetic 17.5
Raman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2014, 06:16 AM   #1563
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 224
Default

Great, thanks. Those are allowed in our Tamiya Cup rules, so that's good. One more question while I'm at it; did you shim all play out of the car, like the axles and the suspension arms / hubs? My TT-01 is not nice shimmed too tight, what about this car?

Cheers,

Hugo
HugoW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2014, 09:54 AM   #1564
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,902
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HugoW View Post
Great, thanks. Those are allowed in our Tamiya Cup rules, so that's good. One more question while I'm at it; did you shim all play out of the car, like the axles and the suspension arms / hubs? My TT-01 is not nice shimmed too tight, what about this car?

Cheers,

Hugo
If you ask in the Mini gurus.. they say its no use to shim m chassis cars. Nonetheless, I tend to shim everything and as a result my car is very accurate.. easy to place it where i want it on the track
__________________
TRF419X / Pulse 17.5, T.O.P Racing Sabre Mini AWD / Impact 21.5, M06 Pro / Impact 21.5, XV-01 Pro Rallye / Kinetic 17.5
Raman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2014, 12:08 PM   #1565
Tech Adept
 
ruebiracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Southern Germany
Posts: 222
Default

Hi guys,
good to hear some M06 news here!
Yesterday I took out "Herbie" again for start of our indoor season, as our club collegues hosted an LRP Race. So we also launched some starters in our Rookie class, and I started again the battle against 4WD touring cars with my M06!
At least, I had some brothers in law today, and an M03, 3 M05 Ver2 Pro and another M06 (child) fought with me.
I was abe to evolve my carpet setting from the "Youngtimer trophy M-class" this year in Langenfeld, and want to let you know my experiences.
I had a good qualifier yesterday, with nearly "R" setup from begin of the year, fiddled with damper oil, tire gluing and some fuzz until tomorrow morning.
The 5th qualifier then made me happy finally, and I took 2nd start place in the B-Final as best of the Mini´s. Before and behind me an 4WD touring car.
I made some mistakes in the 1st final, so I placed 5th. But 2nd and 3rd final I could take 3rd place behind 2 of the 4WD´s and chasing them. It is my best setup so far, I could improve my lap times around 0,2s compared to begin of the year, and the car felt way more consistent in the end, was easy to push with a good feeling of control. And it was not easy because we had to have 5,2mm minimum ground clearance now. So I had to raise to around 5,5mm ride height, which caused more leaning with the high body I use. I tried to soften the load changes with 500MM damper oil in rear, but that caused to much traction loss, so I went back to 400MM again, as it is Spec for the "R"version. Much better. Front I found my shock length for the moment with 56 mm, 2mm spacer inside gave me more bite in front for the fast sweepers and helped for the body roll. Changed to 450MM oil in front, 500MM was to heavy and gave to much bite, causing the end to be loose. The key was in the end to lay down the shocks in front one hole more, and then the car was really good, and so much fun to drive, like never before in Estenfeld. Even the 4WD guy before me came after the race and complained how I could be so fast with a "Mini".
So I will share my setup sheet with you, although it´s maybe a bit specialized for the Beetle body.

And for my friend Ramans tuning parts list some posts before,
I might add the Aluminum rear shock tower for durability reasons, as the plastic one often bends on the camber rod links, which you often cannot see and you just notice a "changing" camber after some wheel contacts...

Greets to all M06 lovers,
Matthias
Attached Thumbnails
TAMIYA M-06 Thread-setting-sheet-m06-pro-r-estenfeld-10-2014.jpg  
__________________
www.TTSC-Racing.de
www.skodacup.de
ruebiracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 05:41 AM   #1566
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 224
Default

Thanks all for the input. I will post pics and details of my car later. Unfortunately my package containing the steering servo is seized by customs. No extra charge 'cause it's cheap, but it takes them a few weeks (!) to process...

Cheers,

Hugo
HugoW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 06:21 PM   #1567
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,902
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Good point in the alum rear damper mount. Forgot about it !

I wish Tamiya would re-release the front C hub, knuckle in a more flexible plastic. Current one is too brittle. I keep breaking the right and I now have a collection of spare lefts lol. Too bad you can't flip it either.

I really don't want to buy the aluminium ones... But having broken 4, I may now have to.

Has anyone broken the square plate that the suspension hinge pin mount to? The piece that holds the arms. I broke one during last race.
Raman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2014, 11:15 PM   #1568
Tech Adept
 
ruebiracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Southern Germany
Posts: 222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Good point in the alum rear damper mount. Forgot about it !

I wish Tamiya would re-release the front C hub, knuckle in a more flexible plastic. Current one is too brittle. I keep breaking the right and I now have a collection of spare lefts lol. Too bad you can't flip it either.

I really don't want to buy the aluminium ones... But having broken 4, I may now have to.

Has anyone broken the square plate that the suspension hinge pin mount to? The piece that holds the arms. I broke one during last race.
Hi Raman,
good to hear from you!
I broke since 2011 2 front knuckles, and 2 rear knuckles!
Suspension plate in rear is still o.k..
With getting the R-kit 2 years ago, I switched to aluminum rear uprights,
no problem since that in rear.
Front end I use due to cost reasons 2 Yeah Racing Aluminum knuckles, which look quite similar to some 3 Racing ones I have. They also had some bad hits since January, and are still ok. Only problem is, that I had to use 6mm spacers for the steering pin, which is a setup, that is quite prone for bending.
So I turned the steering brace upside down before this weekend and can run without spacers now. Didn´t want to risk a failure in the future here...

Maybe you should test the Alu C-hub. If the arms are still Nylon, it could still be durable. Also on M06 the ball pin can pop out, thats maybe an advantage over the FWD´s...

I still bother about using the wishbone set of te M05 Pro V2 I have lying around. They seem to be quite hard. So I´m not sure, if this is a good idea on M06. I like more the durability aspect, as I never saw a broken M-chassis nylon wishbone so far.

Br,
Matthias
__________________
www.TTSC-Racing.de
www.skodacup.de
ruebiracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2014, 01:42 PM   #1569
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 224
Default

Well, here she is minus one steering servo.

Set-up:
Short M-06 chassis kit with Alpine body, no special edition.
TEU101-BK ESC, removed the switch, removed the separate power line to the Rx. I mounted the ESC in the middle of the chassis between the shorty lipo and the diff housing.
Carson Cup machine motor, mandatory in the Dutch Tamiya Cup.
Quick and light steering servo Corona DS-319HV, still in the mail.
Carbon shock mounts front and back, back on alloy bracket.
Ball bearings all around, thoroughly degreased and lightly oiled.
TA-05 turn buckle set for the upper suspension arms.
CVA shocks, two hole pistons in the back, 3 hole in the front, standard CVA kit oil.
Blue springs in the back, yellow ones in the front.
M-05 ball diff.
Currently M-grips in the front and S-grips in the back with stock hard inserts as per the kit, but more rims, tires and inserts are ordered.
I also ordered the anti-roll bar kit and a ton of shims to tighten her up.

The CVA shocks come from my TT-01 cup racer, which has received alloy dampers. I might upgrade the M-06 to alloy ones, too, in the future.

Here are some pics, ‘cause I like looking at other people’s cars, so I should post mine too.







The door lines need to be redone. The yellow and black is a bit of a theme, last year’s TT-01 racer was like that with a Ferrari 458 body, and this year that car will have a similar paint job on an Audi R8 LMS body. Team colours, so to speak.

Hugo
HugoW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2014, 02:58 PM   #1570
Tech Adept
 
ruebiracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Southern Germany
Posts: 222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HugoW View Post
Well, here she is minus one steering servo.

Set-up:
Short M-06 chassis kit with Alpine body, no special edition.
TEU101-BK ESC, removed the switch, removed the separate power line to the Rx. I mounted the ESC in the middle of the chassis between the shorty lipo and the diff housing.
Carson Cup machine motor, mandatory in the Dutch Tamiya Cup.
Quick and light steering servo Corona DS-319HV, still in the mail.
Carbon shock mounts front and back, back on alloy bracket.
Ball bearings all around, thoroughly degreased and lightly oiled.
TA-05 turn buckle set for the upper suspension arms.
CVA shocks, two hole pistons in the back, 3 hole in the front, standard CVA kit oil.
Blue springs in the back, yellow ones in the front.
M-05 ball diff.
Currently M-grips in the front and S-grips in the back with stock hard inserts as per the kit, but more rims, tires and inserts are ordered.
I also ordered the anti-roll bar kit and a ton of shims to tighten her up.

The CVA shocks come from my TT-01 cup racer, which has received alloy dampers. I might upgrade the M-06 to alloy ones, too, in the future.

Here are some pics, ‘cause I like looking at other people’s cars, so I should post mine too.







The door lines need to be redone. The yellow and black is a bit of a theme, last year’s TT-01 racer was like that with a Ferrari 458 body, and this year that car will have a similar paint job on an Audi R8 LMS body. Team colours, so to speak.

Hugo
Hey Hugo,
nice and clean built! Like the ESC idea in the rear with short wiring!
Alpine body is also great with your color scheme!
Let us know your first experiences on Tarmac!

Greets from Germany,
Matthias
__________________
www.TTSC-Racing.de
www.skodacup.de
ruebiracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2014, 12:23 AM   #1571
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 224
Default

Thanks! The ESC is a trick I figured out last season. The 101 has no BEC, no protection, nothing, it is just a voltage regulator. But a very robust one. The servo is very quick on 2S, and light. Last season at the hottest race day many modern ESCs went into overload or the BEC (on the 105s) went bust. My 101 kept functioning perfect. My Rx and the race transponder also work direct on 2S. This makes for a very simple, reliable set-up. I placed the ESC as far left in the centre hole, so together with the Rx it balances out the light servo (almost).

Hugo

Last edited by HugoW; 10-23-2014 at 02:49 AM.
HugoW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2014, 11:20 AM   #1572
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,902
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

I have a TEU-101 as well. You mentioned that you removed the separate power line. How are you getting power to the ESC then? Did you make a modification internally?
Raman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2014, 04:51 AM   #1573
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 224
Default

Hi Raman,

Power to the ESC comes from the power battery. I made a little write-up on what I did to the ESC.

The stock ESC:


Take of the top using a flat screw driver:


Click the circuit board out of the base housing:


This is what the connections look like standard:


Desolder the separate power connector:


Desolder the plus and minus on the Rx wire:


Solder them in place of the original power connector wire:


Next, desolder the black wire of the switch wire:


Cut of the red wire leaving about 10mm, strip the end and coat it in solder:


Loop the red wire into the hole where the black wire used to be and solder in place:


Back into the base:


And the top housing back on:


Ready to go! Be aware, the ESC now gives the full power battery voltage, there is no BEC. I use a servo, Rx and transport which are happy on the high voltage, but normal servos and many Rxs are not.

Regards,

Hugo
HugoW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2014, 01:35 PM   #1574
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,902
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Interesting and good to know. I ended up using a voltage regulator on the separate line and plugged that into ESC
Raman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2014, 08:13 PM   #1575
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,902
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Hugo,

I also painted the Alpine A110 yellow. I also went a little overboard on the bumper and mirrors. It was my first time using spastix chrome. Came out pretty nice. Still need to finish up the fog lights and driving lights





__________________
TRF419X / Pulse 17.5, T.O.P Racing Sabre Mini AWD / Impact 21.5, M06 Pro / Impact 21.5, XV-01 Pro Rallye / Kinetic 17.5
Raman is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Championship Series Neil Rabara Racing Forum 20783 Today 12:41 PM
EAMotorsports discussion thread BigDogRacing Team and Company Discussions 7631 12-01-2016 05:34 PM
Off Road Thread (ALL SCALES UNITE) suntok2 Manila Racers 18645 01-07-2016 02:13 AM
The Big Locked Thread donitaROSE Manila Racers 89718 03-26-2015 08:17 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (2 members and 1 guests)
f1larry, Raman
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:00 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0