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Old 09-29-2014, 07:58 AM   #1546
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I just bought an M06 and this is my first M chassis car ever
Right after I bought it some friends told me that I better off forget it because it will not competitive in an Tamiya Race because it is very hard to set it up compare to M05 chassis
Before I invest my money on some upgrade parts etc, I would like to have some opinions base on facts regarding that statements about M06 chassis
Is it true that M06 is very hard to set up and to drive compare to M05?
If lets say I want to go on and set up my M06 chassis, what are a MUST to do to it? I mean about options parts and set up tips to make it works
I will mainly race on asphalt with medium to high bite track condition
Thank you for sharing
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:57 AM   #1547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
in that case move the top of rear shocks inward (laid down) and/or move the front shock tops outward.
lastly you can spring down one rate on the rear.

Thanks I'll try
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:00 AM   #1548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnie_p View Post
I just bought an M06 and this is my first M chassis car ever
Right after I bought it some friends told me that I better off forget it because it will not competitive in an Tamiya Race because it is very hard to set it up compare to M05 chassis
Before I invest my money on some upgrade parts etc, I would like to have some opinions base on facts regarding that statements about M06 chassis
Is it true that M06 is very hard to set up and to drive compare to M05?
If lets say I want to go on and set up my M06 chassis, what are a MUST to do to it? I mean about options parts and set up tips to make it works
I will mainly race on asphalt with medium to high bite track condition
Thank you for sharing
I think m06 is much better then m05 and very fast right out of box. In other hand, m05 is diffcult to set and confusing for me.
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:01 AM   #1549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
in that case move the top of rear shocks inward (laid down) and/or move the front shock tops outward.
lastly you can spring down one rate on the rear.
And I just want to know why this will work seems you suggest me softer rear end and harder the front end
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:41 AM   #1550
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^^^
Actually that is the opposite. Overall the rear should be firmer than the front. but there is such a thing as one step softer rear or one step stiffer front from where your car is currently having problems.

donnie,
I agree with your friends. the M05/03 is much easier to start with with an setup is not as critical. (you will be able to get around the track easily and quickly)
IMO - The M06 only works well on High traction surfaces. carpet/high traction asphalt.
the M06 never seems to work (competitively) in parking lots.

My experience with Tamiya Minis leads me to believe that the softer end of the car has less overall traction. This is why I recommended the above.

Shock angle - standing up: more initial traction. laid down less initial traction (you said the rear was too stuck initially)
Spring - stiffer more traction to a point - forces rubber onto the track. Softer less traction to a point - lets the car lean/roll more and tires scrub instead of grip.
BTW do my suggestions one at a time to see what difference it makes. do not do them all a the same time. after all you are trying to improve your cars setup. one change may fix the issue you are having. Good luck.

Last edited by Markus; 09-29-2014 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:54 AM   #1551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnie_p View Post
Is it true that M06 is very hard to set up and to drive compare to M05?
yes. the window for optimum setup for the M06 is very small. the window for M05/03 is very wide.

I can give any example that may help explain.

With the M05/03 you can pretty much set the car up and it will work at almost every track you go to. You can mess around with this or that to make it slightly better. but that's it. easy

With the M06 you probably will start at 0 every time you go to a track. With the M06 it's always a compromise creating grip or taking away grip from both sides of the car. It will always push or spin out. often you have to pick the lesser of these two evils. rarely you can hit the button on the head and the car will be dialed... but only on high traction tracks.

If you see the M05/03 fighting traction rolls.... it just may be the perfect time for the M06.

just for fun. here's the video everyone loves
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANzz-xIgX4c

Last edited by Markus; 09-29-2014 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:24 AM   #1552
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When I started using the soft and medium versions of this tire, my M06 handle 100% better.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1848
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:01 PM   #1553
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Start at 0 each time is a bit of an exaggeration. I race my M06 in a parking lot and traction is low to medium grip. Prior to each race I re-check my suspension camber settings and make adjustments to -1 in rear and 0 in front. I run S grips on rear and M grips on front. Car is more consistent than my TC.

The last time I rebuilt my shocks was a year ago. The ball diff has never been rebuilt still works perfect.

In addition I race in a field that has 1:18 AWD cars, that have much more speed, motor and grip. I consistently place 2nd or 3rd and always ahead of M05.

So it all depends to you and how you drive. m05 is easy to drive, peg the throttle, turn the wheel.. it's fwd and under steers into turns and pulls out. BORING.. m06 drives like a real car, you need to refine your throttle control, keep the rear end under control.. but the pay off will bring a smile on your face.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:14 AM   #1554
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Last weekend my friend let me tried his M05 pro version2 for about 2 packs and I rolled quite a few times. The way it handles wasn't really to my liking

Ok then, from the discussion here I think I have the idea on how the M06 perform on the track and I think I'm going to give it a go since I already bought M06 anyway
Now, what are necessary option parts that I should buy to bring my M06 to the max?
Also I will need suggestions on basic set up that I should start with
Anyone willing to share are greatly appreciated
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:22 PM   #1555
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Absolute necessary upgrades
1. TRF dampers
2. Turnbuckle links to adjust F/R camber and front toe
3. Upgrade diff: I personally run M05 ball diff. Others run Spec R or 3Racing gear diff. All are lighter than stock

Secondary upgrades
1. CVD axles - I know some would place this in category one. They make the car more efficient but not detrimental in my opinion
2. Rear 1 degree hubs. Plastic is 2 degrees and chassis has 1.5 built in, so stock set up is 3.5, which is too high in my opinion. I've been running the 1 degrees for quite some time


Set up:
TRF damper
60wt / yellow spring front
60wt / blue sprint rear
Shock length: rear has full length travel / droop, While front has 0 droop (I can't recall how many spacers that makes inside damper)

Suspension: -1'degree camber on rear, 0 degree on front. Front toe is 0 as well. Ride height is 5 mm on rear and 4 mm on front.

Shock position: rear is centre hole, front I tend to change from middle hole to inner hole.

I'm presently running the soft rear roll bar. No roll bar in front. It seems to be helping.

Battery position: I run a shorty battery positioned all the way in the front. I able to do this because I have the R spec axle weights which were never sold alone. Shorty pack is good to have because it lets you move the weight around for the traction you need. You will also want to balance the chassis from left to right, it helps a lot.

Tyres: the m chassis S, M, and H radials are good for track that has medium to low traction. Insert: i use the blue on the S grip and the standard grey (firm) on the m and h compound.

If traction is medium to high, I recommend the Pit Shimizu tyres. They come in 60 diameter S, M, H compound or 55D racing with numbered shores. The inserts that come with them are worthless. I run sweep soft pink inserts in mine

For traction compound I run SXT.

ESC: if you feel you need brakes, add drag brake to settings. Normal brakes are not recommended, because you will swap ends. I have mine set to minimum.

Driving: when entering a turn you need to let off throttle for a second and once its entered the turn apply power, gently, It likes to be driven while on power.

Hope this helps

Long live RWD!

Last edited by Raman; 09-30-2014 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:39 PM   #1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Start at 0 each time is a bit of an exaggeration. I race my M06 in a parking lot and traction is low to medium grip. I run S grips on rear and M grips on front. Car is more consistent than my TC.
Correction. I agree with you. I was speaking of the M06 in full TCS trim (spec S grips) used in TCS races.
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Old 10-03-2014, 11:52 PM   #1557
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@Raman; thanks for that complete setup advise. I built my M6 bone stock as a nice run-a-round, this fall / winter I will rebuild it as a racer for next year's Tamiya Cup. We mostly run low grip tarmac tracks. As a novice to ball diffs, would it be more safe to stick to the original gear dif?

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 10-04-2014, 12:27 PM   #1558
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Default Which cvd's for m06

Can I fit the ones that are labelled for m04 or m05 or are there some m06 dedicated cvd's?
Running the Alfa guilia body
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:31 AM   #1559
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Yes, you can.

Hugo
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:22 PM   #1560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy33 View Post
Can I fit the ones that are labelled for m04 or m05 or are there some m06 dedicated cvd's?
Running the Alfa guilia body
You have good taste my friend. Alfa Giulia is a great body

M chassis suspensions parts, axles,CVDs are pretty much the same in dimensions. Not much has changed through the years.
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