Ceramic bearings?
#1
Ceramic bearings?
I'm rebuilding my two touring cars and M-05 in preparation for the upcoming carpet racing season. Was going to replace all the wheel bearings, and possibly the diff bearings, and want to know if ceramic bearings are worth the extra cost. $5.00 vs $1.00 per bearing is a big difference. Two of my cars will be competing in a silver can class so I'm looking for as little rolling resistance as possible. Is there a noticeable performance difference? What about maintenance/longevity? So, in your opinion, is it worth the extra money?
Last edited by woodys3b; 07-26-2010 at 08:44 AM.
#2
Hmmmm.....
85 people took the time to read my question and not one of them has an opinion?
Maybe no answer is a pretty good answer.
85 people took the time to read my question and not one of them has an opinion?
Maybe no answer is a pretty good answer.
#3
Tech Initiate
This interest me so much either for asphalt xray T2 17.5, nobody has experience with ceramic bearings?
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
I replace my bearings with ceramic in my diffs and motors (21.5-13.5) I personally don't like them in wheels and other areas that take hard knocks as they can be more brittle. As for performance, it is only opinion to whether it is worth it. For less rolling resistance I have been led to believe a metal shield bearing cleaned with solvent and oiled with a light oil is the best.
#5
Ceramic bearings have definitely smaller rolling resistance than steel bearings. Check the RPM rating and you'll see.
The higher RPM actually helps a lot especially in the motor and spur gear bearings where speed is significantly higher than at the wheels.
But as already mentioned, if you forsee hard sideways knocks then better go with steel bearings, not necessarily because they might shatter (steel bearings will crap themselves too), but because it will cost more to replace. I also use ceramics on the diff outdrives, but that's it.
Find a good place with reasonable prices like Kanzen bearings and you won't be that much out of pocket. At our club most of the racers don't really bother with ceramic bearings. After all, at 1$ a bearing you can change them more often.
The higher RPM actually helps a lot especially in the motor and spur gear bearings where speed is significantly higher than at the wheels.
But as already mentioned, if you forsee hard sideways knocks then better go with steel bearings, not necessarily because they might shatter (steel bearings will crap themselves too), but because it will cost more to replace. I also use ceramics on the diff outdrives, but that's it.
Find a good place with reasonable prices like Kanzen bearings and you won't be that much out of pocket. At our club most of the racers don't really bother with ceramic bearings. After all, at 1$ a bearing you can change them more often.
#6
Thanks for the very good feedback.
That's all I was looking for.
Andy
That's all I was looking for.
Andy
#7
Tech Adept
I replace my bearings with ceramic in my diffs and motors (21.5-13.5) I personally don't like them in wheels and other areas that take hard knocks as they can be more brittle. As for performance, it is only opinion to whether it is worth it. For less rolling resistance I have been led to believe a metal shield bearing cleaned with solvent and oiled with a light oil is the best.
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
i run the acer ceramics in all my cars now, tb03-ta05v2.
I noticed a large improvement in how my car rolls with no pinion on the motor. I spun the tires and just watched in amazement at how long they kept rolling. That alone was worth the $$ but the main reason I got these was to save weight in spec class. you save about 1/3 over the steel ones. I run in rcgt and my car takes hits with the best of them and no damage to report. i have been running them for about 9 weeks now. You have to put a drop of oil on the seal
every 10 runs or so or what i did was remove the seal from one side and put a small amount of light wt grease in each bearing. i now can forget about them imo they are worth the $$. in silver can class you need every edge you can get too
......ceramic is the way to go.... buy a complete set and it works out aprox. 6.00 a bearing.
I noticed a large improvement in how my car rolls with no pinion on the motor. I spun the tires and just watched in amazement at how long they kept rolling. That alone was worth the $$ but the main reason I got these was to save weight in spec class. you save about 1/3 over the steel ones. I run in rcgt and my car takes hits with the best of them and no damage to report. i have been running them for about 9 weeks now. You have to put a drop of oil on the seal
every 10 runs or so or what i did was remove the seal from one side and put a small amount of light wt grease in each bearing. i now can forget about them imo they are worth the $$. in silver can class you need every edge you can get too
......ceramic is the way to go.... buy a complete set and it works out aprox. 6.00 a bearing.
#10
This is great I love when racers talk about bearings! Everyone has made very valid points and I agree if you know your car or truck well, you will be able to feel the difference with ceramic bearings!
And for the price unless something crazy happens you will save money in the long run. The real reason they last longer is there non-magnetic. So as the bearing wears the micro pieces of material will not stick to the balls and continually pound the races and balls. Let me explain a little more here. What happens in Bearings with steel balls and steel races is as they roll tiny pieces of metal flake off and build up. Then the magnetic field holds the flakes in place which starts the wearing process. This does not happen with a hybrid ceramic bearing. Also with the ceramic ball being harder and smoother than the race they just wear better together.
You can really see what I explained above in a ball diff. If you study the rings you will see a big difference in how they wear when using ceramic balls verses steel balls. (Tungsten will do better than chrome steel but nothing is better than ceramic)
As a racer myself I have never had a problem with ceramic bearings in the wheels. All though I was a little scared when I put them in my son’s Slash. But to my surprise will all the pounding into the walls and everything in his path they are good as new after 6 months now.
I hope this helps.
And for the price unless something crazy happens you will save money in the long run. The real reason they last longer is there non-magnetic. So as the bearing wears the micro pieces of material will not stick to the balls and continually pound the races and balls. Let me explain a little more here. What happens in Bearings with steel balls and steel races is as they roll tiny pieces of metal flake off and build up. Then the magnetic field holds the flakes in place which starts the wearing process. This does not happen with a hybrid ceramic bearing. Also with the ceramic ball being harder and smoother than the race they just wear better together.
You can really see what I explained above in a ball diff. If you study the rings you will see a big difference in how they wear when using ceramic balls verses steel balls. (Tungsten will do better than chrome steel but nothing is better than ceramic)
As a racer myself I have never had a problem with ceramic bearings in the wheels. All though I was a little scared when I put them in my son’s Slash. But to my surprise will all the pounding into the walls and everything in his path they are good as new after 6 months now.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by planede4mer; 08-26-2010 at 10:38 AM. Reason: spelling
#11
I got ceramic bearing only because I won't have to replace them again. Just clean the bearings, sand the D-ring, add diff lube and you're good for another race day.
#12
Don't know where you're getting ceramic bearings. I just ordered 24 of them and paid $32.00. Axiom Motors
#13
The first thing I do to any car I have is put ceramics though out the diff. Especially if it is a ball diff. So much smoother and stay smoother a lot longer.
I have all ceramics in my photon and in the rear axles of my pan cars. They do make a difference on the bench, but not worth the extra coin IMO. I personally did not notice any difference driving them.
I have all ceramics in my photon and in the rear axles of my pan cars. They do make a difference on the bench, but not worth the extra coin IMO. I personally did not notice any difference driving them.
#14
I went to a bearing shop and got the best quality steel metal sheilded bearings they had.. seem to do the job and they were cheap as chips.. just replace them when ever I see a worn one and oil them every 2nd meet or so.. (bit lazy)
On the spur this is the only place I put a ceramic bearing.. didn't even think about putting them in the motor.. but it does make sense..
I would not put them in the wheels.. I have too make big side hits.. car slidding in the barrier off a sweeper.. I have even smashed shielded ones up.. would have been pi$$ed if it was ceramic bearings I had in there..
On the spur this is the only place I put a ceramic bearing.. didn't even think about putting them in the motor.. but it does make sense..
I would not put them in the wheels.. I have too make big side hits.. car slidding in the barrier off a sweeper.. I have even smashed shielded ones up.. would have been pi$$ed if it was ceramic bearings I had in there..