Ok so I've narrowed it down to 4 cars. . . .
06-03-2004, 10:54 AM
#106
Indeed I have read them all I particularly like this one.....
Originally posted by Entropy
Mabuchi:
I think its best to go with the car that you like if budget isn't an issue. Better to die with your loved one, than to live with one you hate
Since parts support is non-existant for any car, it don't matter which car you get.
In the end, parts only break if you crash your car often and/or you're a reckless driver.
The only reason to stay away from a particular car is if it has a systemic flaw. Something that breaks regularly in the normal running of the car rather than user error.
I personally have a Pro4 and a TA04, both I got because I liked. Despite their flaws (if any), I still make them run the best they can, because I like them alot.
Mabuchi:
I think its best to go with the car that you like if budget isn't an issue. Better to die with your loved one, than to live with one you hate
Since parts support is non-existant for any car, it don't matter which car you get.
In the end, parts only break if you crash your car often and/or you're a reckless driver.
The only reason to stay away from a particular car is if it has a systemic flaw. Something that breaks regularly in the normal running of the car rather than user error.
I personally have a Pro4 and a TA04, both I got because I liked. Despite their flaws (if any), I still make them run the best they can, because I like them alot.
06-03-2004, 11:12 AM
#107
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Now that just sounds like ride height adjustment?
Now that just sounds like ride height adjustment?
06-03-2004, 11:22 AM
#108
Tah for the info
Originally posted by fatdoggy
No you set ride height with preload on your shocks. After that you adjust droop so that you have a few mm of lift before the chassis lifts the wheels off the ground. Why? Becuase when you use the brakes your car(drops front, lifts the rear) or accelerates (front lifts, rear drops). If you didn't have droop it could cause understeer while accelerateing and oversteer while braking.
No you set ride height with preload on your shocks. After that you adjust droop so that you have a few mm of lift before the chassis lifts the wheels off the ground. Why? Becuase when you use the brakes your car(drops front, lifts the rear) or accelerates (front lifts, rear drops). If you didn't have droop it could cause understeer while accelerateing and oversteer while braking.
06-03-2004, 02:48 PM
#109
Tech Addict
Re: Tah for the info
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Doh
Doh
After your comments on what is droop, please be very carefull in what car you pick, the cars you have mentioned are VERY tuneable and if you dont know what droop, roll, centers, caster, camber etc etc do you maybe using the car once and finding that you dont want to drive it again because its a pian to drive and you dont know how to set it up
06-03-2004, 03:52 PM
#110
Judging from your comments on "droop" and the one about how you adjust your driving and not the car I think it may take a little time for you to get up to speed.. so to speak.
I will go back to my original sugestion.... go to the track where you will race and watch the fast guys... see what cars they drive, talk to them and get their opinions on gear ratio, chassis setups, cars, spares to buy etc. This will move you much farther along the learning curve and probably save you money in the long run.
I will go back to my original sugestion.... go to the track where you will race and watch the fast guys... see what cars they drive, talk to them and get their opinions on gear ratio, chassis setups, cars, spares to buy etc. This will move you much farther along the learning curve and probably save you money in the long run.
06-03-2004, 04:54 PM
#112
Tech Adept
I think the difference between the cars in the list for all but the very top drivers is irrelevant.
Car set up is critical. I really struggled to get my multi-adjustable car sorted. It was hard to control and as a result I crashed a lot. It was no fun at all to drive. Now I'm rapt with it. I'm really pleased I perservered, it is very satisfying to solve problems.
My best and final advice is pick the one that attracts you most - not what other people like, then work on driving and set up until
you are racing with similar spec cars, (as opposed to being in the same race).
Cheers
Peter
Car set up is critical. I really struggled to get my multi-adjustable car sorted. It was hard to control and as a result I crashed a lot. It was no fun at all to drive. Now I'm rapt with it. I'm really pleased I perservered, it is very satisfying to solve problems.
My best and final advice is pick the one that attracts you most - not what other people like, then work on driving and set up until
you are racing with similar spec cars, (as opposed to being in the same race).
Cheers
Peter
06-03-2004, 06:28 PM
#113
Re: Re: Tah for the info
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Mabuchi540
After your comments on what is droop, please be very carefull in what car you pick, the cars you have mentioned are VERY tuneable and if you dont know what droop, roll, centers, caster, camber etc etc do you maybe using the car once and finding that you dont want to drive it again because its a pian to drive and you dont know how to set it up
Mabuchi540
After your comments on what is droop, please be very carefull in what car you pick, the cars you have mentioned are VERY tuneable and if you dont know what droop, roll, centers, caster, camber etc etc do you maybe using the car once and finding that you dont want to drive it again because its a pian to drive and you dont know how to set it up
To Pedro 51: Thanks for the comment it helped a decision.
Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-03-2004 at 06:38 PM.
06-03-2004, 07:08 PM
#114
Long post... sorry. ;)
Droop can be a powerful tuning adjustment. In fact, when my car's not handling the way I'd like it to, I generally start adjusting droop before anything else (camber, caster, wheelbase, etc...)
There are some pretty good sources online regarding chasis setup. One that comes to mind is:
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...ationdatabase/
The site is geared towards the Associated TC3, but the concepts are universal. Also, if you know anyone with an XRay car, ask them to look at their setup guide that comes with every XRay kit. Additionally, the XXX Main setup guide is awesome. I've refererenced a friend's copy a handful of times, and I've been so impressed that I'm going to buy one.
Of course, RCTech is an incredible repository for information. Off the top of my head, Barry Baker, Josh Cyrul, Todd Hodge, and Chris Tosolini all have "Ask ______" threads here and all have been willing to help people with setup questions.
Your comment regarding "manufacturers didn't stumble across that by accident" is true, but not entirely applicable to most of us. I have never run a car with the box stock setup for long - I usually end up taming the car a bit, as I don't necessarily want the rear end of my car as aggressive as some of the manufacturers' setups end up providing.
You've mentioned that you typically don't alter the car, rather you alter your driving to match what the car is doing. I, too, did that when I first started running touring cars, and what I found was this: I became significantly faster when I stopped driving the car in whatever state it happened to be in at the time and started adjusting the car to suit my driving. It's hard enough to develop good driving techniques with a perfectly functioning race car, but it's near impossible to utilize good techniques you've accumulated over time when you're chasing the car. So many variables in a race change during the course of the day - track temperature, traction, and yes, your car's adjustments will change too. Knowing how to tame the car through proper adjustment will allow you to focus on utilizing your driving skill.
Hope this helped. Don't mean to tell you what to do, but when you post in public forums, you gotta expect people to offer their opinions.
Best of luck with your racing. And, for what it's worth, all of the cars you're considering are good cars. I wouldn't say one is any better than the other. Any car can win on any given day, given the right driver. Heck, Barry Baker could probably 2-lap me and my XRay using a Tyco R/C car bought at a discount store.
Rob
There are some pretty good sources online regarding chasis setup. One that comes to mind is:
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...ationdatabase/
The site is geared towards the Associated TC3, but the concepts are universal. Also, if you know anyone with an XRay car, ask them to look at their setup guide that comes with every XRay kit. Additionally, the XXX Main setup guide is awesome. I've refererenced a friend's copy a handful of times, and I've been so impressed that I'm going to buy one.
Of course, RCTech is an incredible repository for information. Off the top of my head, Barry Baker, Josh Cyrul, Todd Hodge, and Chris Tosolini all have "Ask ______" threads here and all have been willing to help people with setup questions.
Your comment regarding "manufacturers didn't stumble across that by accident" is true, but not entirely applicable to most of us. I have never run a car with the box stock setup for long - I usually end up taming the car a bit, as I don't necessarily want the rear end of my car as aggressive as some of the manufacturers' setups end up providing.
You've mentioned that you typically don't alter the car, rather you alter your driving to match what the car is doing. I, too, did that when I first started running touring cars, and what I found was this: I became significantly faster when I stopped driving the car in whatever state it happened to be in at the time and started adjusting the car to suit my driving. It's hard enough to develop good driving techniques with a perfectly functioning race car, but it's near impossible to utilize good techniques you've accumulated over time when you're chasing the car. So many variables in a race change during the course of the day - track temperature, traction, and yes, your car's adjustments will change too. Knowing how to tame the car through proper adjustment will allow you to focus on utilizing your driving skill.
Hope this helped. Don't mean to tell you what to do, but when you post in public forums, you gotta expect people to offer their opinions.
Best of luck with your racing. And, for what it's worth, all of the cars you're considering are good cars. I wouldn't say one is any better than the other. Any car can win on any given day, given the right driver. Heck, Barry Baker could probably 2-lap me and my XRay using a Tyco R/C car bought at a discount store.
Rob
06-03-2004, 07:32 PM
#115
Yes it did actually thanks....
and of course I have to take into account that out of the box settings for a 540 stock motor car in off road are going to be somewhat different speed wise compared to the same motor in a modern on-road. Actually the first thing I might do is turn the throttle setting down to 80% (once I figure out the transmitter manuel ) Ooo look at all the buttons
) Ooo look at all the buttons
06-03-2004, 07:36 PM
#116
Re: Yes it did actually thanks....
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Actually the first thing I might do is turn the throttle setting down to 80% (once I figure out the transmitter manuel ) Ooo look at all the buttons
Actually the first thing I might do is turn the throttle setting down to 80% (once I figure out the transmitter manuel
) Ooo look at all the buttons
Rob
06-03-2004, 07:48 PM
#117
Just get a TL01.
Geez, I've been beaten myself by a good driver with a TL01 and a 11T motor.
Plus, parts are cheap and the car is durable, droop is also a non issue
Geez, I've been beaten myself by a good driver with a TL01 and a 11T motor.
Plus, parts are cheap and the car is durable, droop is also a non issue
06-03-2004, 08:50 PM
#118
Re: Long post... sorry. ;)
Originally posted by losirob
Droop can be a powerful tuning adjustment. In fact, when my car's not handling the way I'd like it to, I generally start adjusting droop before anything else (camber, caster, wheelbase, etc...)
There are some pretty good sources online regarding chasis setup. One that comes to mind is:
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...ationdatabase/
The site is geared towards the Associated TC3, but the concepts are universal. Also, if you know anyone with an XRay car, ask them to look at their setup guide that comes with every XRay kit. Additionally, the XXX Main setup guide is awesome. I've refererenced a friend's copy a handful of times, and I've been so impressed that I'm going to buy one.
Of course, RCTech is an incredible repository for information. Off the top of my head, Barry Baker, Josh Cyrul, Todd Hodge, and Chris Tosolini all have "Ask ______" threads here and all have been willing to help people with setup questions.
Your comment regarding "manufacturers didn't stumble across that by accident" is true, but not entirely applicable to most of us. I have never run a car with the box stock setup for long - I usually end up taming the car a bit, as I don't necessarily want the rear end of my car as aggressive as some of the manufacturers' setups end up providing.
You've mentioned that you typically don't alter the car, rather you alter your driving to match what the car is doing. I, too, did that when I first started running touring cars, and what I found was this: I became significantly faster when I stopped driving the car in whatever state it happened to be in at the time and started adjusting the car to suit my driving. It's hard enough to develop good driving techniques with a perfectly functioning race car, but it's near impossible to utilize good techniques you've accumulated over time when you're chasing the car. So many variables in a race change during the course of the day - track temperature, traction, and yes, your car's adjustments will change too. Knowing how to tame the car through proper adjustment will allow you to focus on utilizing your driving skill.
Hope this helped. Don't mean to tell you what to do, but when you post in public forums, you gotta expect people to offer their opinions.
Best of luck with your racing. And, for what it's worth, all of the cars you're considering are good cars. I wouldn't say one is any better than the other. Any car can win on any given day, given the right driver. Heck, Barry Baker could probably 2-lap me and my XRay using a Tyco R/C car bought at a discount store.
Rob
Droop can be a powerful tuning adjustment. In fact, when my car's not handling the way I'd like it to, I generally start adjusting droop before anything else (camber, caster, wheelbase, etc...)
There are some pretty good sources online regarding chasis setup. One that comes to mind is:
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...ationdatabase/
The site is geared towards the Associated TC3, but the concepts are universal. Also, if you know anyone with an XRay car, ask them to look at their setup guide that comes with every XRay kit. Additionally, the XXX Main setup guide is awesome. I've refererenced a friend's copy a handful of times, and I've been so impressed that I'm going to buy one.
Of course, RCTech is an incredible repository for information. Off the top of my head, Barry Baker, Josh Cyrul, Todd Hodge, and Chris Tosolini all have "Ask ______" threads here and all have been willing to help people with setup questions.
Your comment regarding "manufacturers didn't stumble across that by accident" is true, but not entirely applicable to most of us. I have never run a car with the box stock setup for long - I usually end up taming the car a bit, as I don't necessarily want the rear end of my car as aggressive as some of the manufacturers' setups end up providing.
You've mentioned that you typically don't alter the car, rather you alter your driving to match what the car is doing. I, too, did that when I first started running touring cars, and what I found was this: I became significantly faster when I stopped driving the car in whatever state it happened to be in at the time and started adjusting the car to suit my driving. It's hard enough to develop good driving techniques with a perfectly functioning race car, but it's near impossible to utilize good techniques you've accumulated over time when you're chasing the car. So many variables in a race change during the course of the day - track temperature, traction, and yes, your car's adjustments will change too. Knowing how to tame the car through proper adjustment will allow you to focus on utilizing your driving skill.
Hope this helped. Don't mean to tell you what to do, but when you post in public forums, you gotta expect people to offer their opinions.
Best of luck with your racing. And, for what it's worth, all of the cars you're considering are good cars. I wouldn't say one is any better than the other. Any car can win on any given day, given the right driver. Heck, Barry Baker could probably 2-lap me and my XRay using a Tyco R/C car bought at a discount store.
Rob
06-03-2004, 09:29 PM
#119
Tech Adept
You say you're going to race in Wellington? Why don't you just talk to a guy called Kelvin Wong (I think he's in Wellington somewhere) and see what he can offer you. He stocks the up to date equipment for onroad and SPARE parts for the cars he sells. Ask Pedro 51 for his contact details. Maybe you could get your brother to bring you a car (as thats what you seem intent on doing) that Kelvin carries spares for? I have to keep on reminding myself that your not a newbie, and that obviously you would know that a good car is a necessity, but a excellent driver is essential towards being fast . 
.
.
06-03-2004, 09:44 PM
#120
Well after a 12 year....
break I might as well be lol(lucky the local high school has two new netball courts to practice on). And I don't actually intend racing in Wellington I'm just going to have a look when some of the Manawatu guys go for a race, I'll most likely stick to Palmy when they get a track sussed.
Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-03-2004 at 09:49 PM.
