YoDog

iTrader: (28)

That's $20 shipped in the good ol' U.S. of A.
I've posted some pics over the last few pages. I will be posting some new ones shortly as I have just finished a short run of what I call V2 of the carbon top plate for the servo mount. It's a bit narrower allowing for easier access to the receiver. The first batch was a great success and I'm looking forward to making more in the coming week or two. They will now include the V2 plate.
I'm working some other hop up components and if they work as well as the servo mount, I will be offering them up shortly. Don't want to let the cat out of the bag yet.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Shoot! I forgot to mention that all servo mounts that have been paid for have shipped. The international shipping kinda took a little bit to figure out but I got it.
It appears that pretty much anywhere outside the U.S. costs an extra $6.00 for international postage. $6.55 to be more precise.

BillPear

iTrader: (3)

I try to avoid setup questions in these forums since I dont drive like you nor you me and we probably arent at the same track, but I do have one general one. I am setting up my TC6.1FT for VTA, that said I had to add 130g of weight to bring it up to the 1550g minimum, Can you guys suggest a good place to start with the springs? I cant imagine the original silver ones are quite enough for the extra weight.

Thanks.

jmike

I just have to vent, i was leading the amain tonight when one bump with some traffic ended up breaking my front a-arm. I love how my car drives but this is the third week in a row a front end part has broken and cost me my main event finish. I'm a pretty clean driver and don't make too much contact out there. I'd hate to say it but it makes me feel like selling and trying someing else.. Too bad, the car is fast as hell.

RCW

iTrader: (29)

Sorry for the bad luck, but I have to say I think it is very durable. This is my first season running TC and believe me I have found more than my share of boards! I have only broken 2 C hubs all season.

Crashmaster

Hey guys,

I've had a few runs with my TC6.1 and after abit of setup advice on how to get abit more initial steering off throttle.

My current setup is this with the following differences:

40 wt oil and silver springs front and rear
white rear ARB
Spool up front
6mm ride height front and rear

My initial thinking is:
More rear droop
Stiffer rear ARB
Higher front roll centre?

Any advice would be well appreciated as I'm allittle rusty at setup!

Thanks
Dan

chevtech23

iTrader: (2)

Two years with this car and ive never broke an A arm, indoor and outdoor, my kid raced a 6.1 in novice for a year and never did more than pop a ball cup. Only issues ive had were the early 6.1 caster blocks breaking. Ive broke a few arm mounts and cvd blades which i consider them both a wear item anyways. I make my fair share of contact, i think you have had bad luck, this car is stout.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Add toe to the front. Start with .5 deg of toe-out. You can increase caster for off-power steering, too.

jha07

iTrader: (3)

Same experience here. I've had some really nasty crashes, like flying off the track at full speed at the end of the straight. That crash broke my C-hub, steering knuckle, and cv blade, but the arm was fine. I've actually been thinking these arms are indestructable.

jmike

I hear this on here and other forums too. It seems in our club the T4s and Serpents hold up best and the TC6.1s have most of the issues. Not a speed issue, we run 17.5t stock. Just bad luck, hope it turns around soon. I just boiled all my arms and hubs in hope a little tempering will help the plasticity of the arms and not snap under the strain anymore.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

+1

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

ok a few questions for everyone

rear diff oil wt
light vs heavy and the affects on handeling



has anyone ever had a traction roll issue with the car rolling exiting the corner its almost like the front tires are driving themselfs out from under the car (the grip was insane and will only get higher once the nats arrive)

i tried several different setup approaches and am just looking for a few things to try to more or less remove front traction (i had to cut my dualrate in half just to jeep the car on the track)

u had to run the standard cvd's insted on the dcj's (since i blew one up in practice) is it possable that they are making the car bing up on exit and roll

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

At Horsham, the traction gets high enough for traction roll on a club race weekend. I found the front shock spring, piston and oil set-up to have the biggest effect. What is you current set-up?

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

in the main i ran 4wt all around losi 56 pistons rsd yellow in front and teal in rear and that was the best the car was all day

i did try ae silver front ae green rear and that car was good also but still tippy mid to late corner


i started with yokomo blue front and pink rear and it was good when bite was los but as soon as it came up it was impossable to exit the corner without any speed at all

i played with rear track with as perr cuffs advice and wider was better i went from narrow arm mouts and 1mm hex shim (what cuffs ran ) to no hex spacer and plus 1.5 each side on the arm mounts and was a bit better

i ran 3b roll center all around i was thing about trying ob in the front

Jones Auto

iTrader: (2)

Kimbrough 209 Spur Gear 64P, 88T. Wil this gear fit my car? Associated doesnt make a spur gear in this configuration for my car. Im running vintage.