KC10Chief

iTrader: (1)

Which springs from reflex would be good for racing 17.5T blinky on carpet? We run foam tires as well.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

For foam tires, im not sure the RSD springs will be stiff enough (they are suited for rubber). As a guess id probably start with AE Purple front springs and AE Blue rear.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Just like TC5 FT kit!

Check it in manual.

at front DIFF!!! no solid axle.

rossb

I set my droop by measuring the drop of the arms with a droop gauge. When I lift the chassis in the middle I noticed that the tires do not come off the ground at the same time (it is close). Do you set your final droop by measuring the arm drop with a droop gauge, or do you adjust your droop to ensure both tires leave the ground at the same time?

trigger

iTrader: (15)

^^^You are measuring droop correctly(measuring under the arms) but when you lift the car and the wheels come off at different heights, that's chassis tweak, we'll more like shock preload from the opposite end. Meaning if the rear wheels are uneven, then the front shock preloads needs adjusting and it the fronts wheels are at different heights, then the rear preloads needs adjusting.

rossb

The car is even on my tweak station, front and rear. Ride height is also even left to right. The wheels lift close, just not as exact as my droop gauge seems to indicate.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Are you setting your droop with your shocks connected? If your using blocks and the tires are off, without the shocks attached and the droop is the same, you could have a shock thats causing your difference when its all togeather.

rossb

I am setting it with the shocks on. They are long enough so that they do not prevent the proper droop setting.

mtbboy

iTrader: (1)

Check to see if your spring retainers are touching your arms.
Grind the arms where the retainers make contact.

EvetsFidrat

Well I just had my first race with the TC6.1 Factory team. I really like it! Cant believe what you can get for the price. I finished second, 6 seconds behind the new 6.1 WE. I used the kit setup with 1 extra degree of toe in the rear and 35w shock oil in the rear with losi 56 piston in the rear. Didn't have much time to play around with setup much. We are running the 17.5 boosted class and I has having issues getting the right engine temp with enough boost to be fast mostly on the infield. With Boost and turbo I find the car has no punch until you get to the straight and it has no torque on the infield. I was trying a compromise between physical timing and boost to make it fast but the engine gets very hot, around 200f.
I got it down to 191f running the tekin RS pro with 20 deg physical timing, 37 boost and 10 turbo and a FDR of 6.0 . It's the best setting I have tried so far but there are 2 club members who had faster lap times and more consistent races with blinky setup. It's a rather small track. The track is short. We do a lap in 9.5 seconds average so torque is most important, does anyone have suggestions on what to do about the boost settings, gearing ant timing? I am running the tekin redline engine, maybe a different engine brand has more torque and keeps cooler?

Kwikvdub

iTrader: (100)

http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...prod=FAN27897W ..... This is the ticket!!

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Tekin motors are slow, get a Duo 3.5, thunderpower or Reedy, it sounds like your track is too small to really make use of "boost", I would just play with timing and gearing.

jha07

iTrader: (3)

I never use that droop gauge. It's ok for ball park adjustment, but as you've seen it doesn't work. If your chassis, tires, and all suspension parts were perfectly manufactured, maybe it would work. But since nothing is ever perfect, it's best to not use it.

After my ride height and tweak is set, I measure droop by lifting the chassis up until the tires are barely in contact with the ground. I then measure what the ride height is. This minus actual ride height is the droop. I then fine tune the droop screws to make sure both tires leave the ground equal.

jha07

iTrader: (3)

Try to reduce your physical timing to 10, or gear down, like 6.5. Too much timing, or too high gearing will reduce torque and make the motor hot. Keep going until the motor is around 160F.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

Our carpet track is also small and in the 9-10 second a lap area. We can only run blinky on the ESC but can time the motor to whatever we want. I run an LRP X-12 Stock Spec 17.5 with the stock timing insert (4 dot). We found that with our shorter track that a higher FDR is better overall. We run around 4.3 - 4.6 FDR and have great torque in the infield and I still dont think the motor tops out by the end of the straight on most motors. The temps are usually in the 150-200 range some with fans some without. For my TC6.1 I run 96/44 (64p) for a FDR of 4.36 currently, but think I will try 96/43 for a 4.47 and see how that works.