geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

A simpler thing I do to de tweak is put the chassis on droop blocks, release the topdeck screws, feel to make sure the chassis is flat, and re tighten the topdeck. Easy and works well. As mentioned, the alu. screws fit much better, or if you want a cheaper option there are stainless sets available that do the trick as well

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

But the aluminum screws are BLUE!!!

Warbird

Hi all

Was looking at DCJ for the car, and came across ArrowMax, who made one for TCX, not sure if it would fit TC6.1? Anybody have tried them?

http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=459

Many thanks!

VAzRACER

iTrader: (17)

A friend has been running these in his T3 12' for a week or two with no issues. Since these are made just like the Xray ECS's you will have to open up the c hub even on the 6.1 that has a larger opening than the 6. I just put the HB TCX DCJ's in last week and all you have to do is drill the blades out to 2.5mm. They fit through the c hubs with no work needed. The quality on the HB DCJ's is really really good, on par with the 50+ dollar Xray units. The DCJ's are the easiest way to go IMO.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Installed and tried the solid spool last week, providing better and quicker on power performance over slipper front spool, but added some off power push when entering 180* turns. Currently using -1.5* camber on front & rear. Should I try -2* front camber first to attempt turn in improvement? Thank you for and recommendations.

Warbird

Hi VAz

Thanks for the advise, thats right the c hub opening is quiet small inst it.

Cheers

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Are these 44 or 46 mm ?

michal1226

HI

I would like buy Asso TC6.1 but I was reading yours messages ang i have doubt.
Now I'm use my old X-ray T1FK05. It's very very durable model ang i love its but now i have problem with buying parts for it. I was decided buy new TC6.1 but many people write that they have problem with little tough parts.
Please tell me these parts are really bad? Maybe I should looking for TC6?

sorry for my english

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

Put it this way - I switched to TC6's after running HB TCX's for a year, simply because the TCX was simply too fragile; the plastics on the car are very hard, and break with very little effort.

Since switching to the TC6, I've broken very little on the car - a few c-hubs, and I think one arm. Other than that, the car has been very solid. I run both 17.5 blinky and 13.5 boosted cars...

For that reason, I'm not looking at upgrading the car to the 6.1 - the last thing I want to do is go back to a car that's way too 'hard'. From looking at the construction of the c-hubs, they look way too fragile, at least for the way I drive I may be able to upgrade some of the parts to 6.1, but keep some of the other parts 6.0; I don't know.

So, here's my opinion - if you don't smack boards at all, go for the 6.1. Otherwise, find a 6.

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

do you guys thing tc6.1 have better handling over tc6?
its same shocks and chassis. difference is changed from front slipper spool/rear ball diff to front spool/rear gear diff, arms, sway bars and hinge pin blocks

michal1226

This is the solution but I'm afraid that asso finished make parts for TC6 after half year.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

The arms make a pretty big difference as they offer different shock positions and add more as well 6 vs 4. I currently have 6.1 arms on my car with regular 6 hubs and steering blocks and the change allowed me to use a suspension setup that was unavailable on the original arm (the "c" shock location on the lower arm).

The offset arm mounts are also nice as the built in 2mm offset allows for setups with less shims which give positive thread engagement without having to use a very long screw. In most cases a shim may not even be needed which increase surface area of the mount to the bulkhead...

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

Associated will continue to make parts for the TC6 for a long time, so I wouldn't worry about that.

The 6.1 is an incremental upgrade, so most of the parts are the same between the two cars...

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

Keep in mind the new rear arms are longer and the new rear hubs are offset to make up for it.
If your running new arms with old hubs your trackwidth is going to be pretty wide ( I would be curious to know how wide?)
The old rear hubs will soften the suspension from a leverage standpoint also..........just something to keep in mind when mixing old and new parts.

tryandfok

iTrader: (4)

i like the offset arm mount idea.