R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-06-2011, 02:53 PM   #1366
Tech Master
 
Buckaroo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 1,503
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by azz187 View Post
Maybe it's just me, however i'm having a hard time trying to remove the e-clips on the spur gear shaft, so much for easy spur gear access!
My e-clips just don't want to come off.
Has anyone else found this? Any tips?
Micro screw driver. Should be able to get the blade into the E and wedge the clip out.
__________________
Tom Keith

Tekin & Sweep, thanks for all that you do for you know who!

Associated/T.O.P./Mugen/Fantom/Spektrum/Savox
Buckaroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 03:01 PM   #1367
Tech Apprentice
 
azz187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 80
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Micro screw driver. Should be able to get the blade into the E and wedge the clip out.
All good got it out finally, I hate e-clips!!
azz187 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 03:03 PM   #1368
Tech Elite
 
CristianTabush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,712
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Better Way to Free up Ball Cups

http://www.google.com/search?q=ball+...5733a97aebfa72

Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.
__________________
REFLEX RACING/ RSD/ GIZMO RACING USA/ HOBBYWING/ AXON/ QTEQ/ TEAM PRIME
CristianTabush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 03:38 PM   #1369
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 146
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
Quality post above for the ball cup treatment! Thanks!

I've just got a Spec R diff for the Yoke, I remember someone saying what needed trimming on it but cant find the post. Anyone remember?
you have to rim the knuckles a bit so that they fit smooth into the drivershafts of the spec R diff, about 1/10mm

greetings
thilo-alexander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 05:06 PM   #1370
Tech Regular
 
tqcookie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 330
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
http://www.google.com/search?q=ball+...5733a97aebfa72

Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.
Yes there about 100 different types of ball end reamers on the market. 2 problems arise from purchasing these. The first being there all sized just a little different so you may not get one that works well with the cups you have. By using a spare ball stud you get the right size the first time. The second thing is you have to buy it. I know most if not all of us have spare ball studs in our possesion. It litterally takes 3 seconds to use a side cutters to make the grooves in a ball stud and your ready to go.
tqcookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 06:03 PM   #1371
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sarasota FL
Posts: 1,939
Trader Rating: 45 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
is any one running the plastic outdrives with the slipper spool?
well?
tcb22185 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 06:42 PM   #1372
Tech Fanatic
 
jjfo80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: queensland australia
Posts: 759
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
well?
Good luck in them lasting lol.... The spool idea is tough on the blades as it is so the plastic outdrives wont last to long at all.
__________________
Owner of Precise Fuels and RC and Podified Fuels
jjfo80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 06:43 PM   #1373
Tech Fanatic
 
jjfo80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: queensland australia
Posts: 759
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
well?
Oh and what plastic outdrives are you using anyways as the tc5 ones dont fit on the tc6 so.... The tc6 parts I dont think will include plastic ones anyways.
__________________
Owner of Precise Fuels and RC and Podified Fuels
jjfo80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 05:47 AM   #1374
Tech Master
 
Buckaroo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 1,503
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
well?

Slipper spool with the plastic outdrives didn't work very well in the TC5, and would be impossible with the TC6, seeing as how the outdrives are aluminum (with no plastic outdrives offered or planned) and the TC5 parts won't fit.
__________________
Tom Keith

Tekin & Sweep, thanks for all that you do for you know who!

Associated/T.O.P./Mugen/Fantom/Spektrum/Savox
Buckaroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 07:28 AM   #1375
Tech Adept
 
Lebatek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 138
Send a message via AIM to Lebatek
Default

The past month we have been running on a carpet track with low to medium traction, and the surface temperature has been low (45 to 55 degrees). Using the 7A rear camber link with a silver ball stud and 1mm roll center spacing really helped hook up the rear end compared to Keven's Halloween setup.

Once it warms up, if your track develops a groove quickly, or at bigger races, 7A may not allow enough rotation, but in the right conditions, it's a great option.

Note that this is closer to the manual setup. Several folks were experiencing over-rotation with the short rear camber link, and 7A will help. We also have been running a little more droop and rear toe-in and unhooked the rear swaybar.

Cheers!
__________________
John Lebak

Sponsored by: Team Associated, Reedy, Airtronics, LRP, and Mugen

Last edited by Lebatek; 01-07-2011 at 08:37 AM.
Lebatek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 08:27 AM   #1376
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,261
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Does anybody have the part number to the plastic diff wing nut that the holds the actual diff nut? the manual states 31166 but that is a tc5 diff rebuild with rings and all and doesn't seem to even have the plastic piece.
__________________
Support those that support us

http://ActivRC.com http://TeamPowersUSA.net http://TeamAssociated.com
Brian Bosley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:16 AM   #1377
AE-Reedy
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 759
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
Does anybody have the part number to the plastic diff wing nut that the holds the actual diff nut? the manual states 31166 but that is a tc5 diff rebuild with rings and all and doesn't seem to even have the plastic piece.
You can use AE#6575 in place of the TC5/6 part. This is what most team guys use as it locks the spool/diff better and is easier to get. That part is from the B4/T4 diff so it should be easy to find in most hobby shops.
Sean Cochran is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 09:52 AM   #1378
Tech Master
 
SkarTisu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,669
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to SkarTisu Send a message via Yahoo to SkarTisu
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tqcookie View Post
Ok, I am going to atempt to help any one who is having troubles with your
TC6 ball cups.

I was taught a long time ago when I got into Helis is there is a right way to install ball cups of this type. There is one side that is different from the other. The side with the numbers on them is molded differently than the other side. The side with the numbers has a larger opening and needs to be placed so the numbers face the ball you are snappiong them on to.

In these pictures you can see the difference in the two sides.




Another thing I learned when I got into helis is a neat way to perfectly size a tight ball cup. Squeezing a ball cup works in a pinch but alot of times isn't a permanent fix. What I am going to show you is not only easy but will make the cups fit perfectly.

1st take a spare ball of the proper size. Not all balls are the same. LOL Take a side cutter grab and squeeze the ball stud two different times 90* apart.


Squezze pretty hard as you ar trying to cut into the ballstud. You should now have 4 cuts 90* apart.


Once you have done this, click the ballstud into your favorite drill.


Pop a ball cup onto the ballstud and spin the drill for a few seconds.


Different drills spin at different speeds so it will take a couple of times to figure how much you will need. Also some cups will be tighter than others. So take your time. After you spin it for a few seconds check it on the car. If it is still tight do it again until it is perfect. I usually get all my tierods setup first then size them as needed. It also makes it easier to hold. Once you get a feel for how long to spin the drill it will go really fast.

I hope this will help those of you having trouble with the fit of your ball cups. Also those of you who think yours are pretty good, give it a shot. I think every one will soon see that AE didn't make a mistake with their molds. They made very good cups that with a little TLC fit absolutely perfect.

Thank you Cookie! Excellent post!
__________________
Marshall Skare
Team Associated - Reedy Powered - JConcepts - LiveRC.com
SkarTisu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 05:10 PM   #1379
Tech Apprentice
 
azz187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 80
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
Does anybody have the part number to the plastic diff wing nut that the holds the actual diff nut? the manual states 31166 but that is a tc5 diff rebuild with rings and all and doesn't seem to even have the plastic piece.
I've been looking for the same part, I don't think they have released it yet.
azz187 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 05:28 PM   #1380
Tech Master
 
Buckaroo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 1,503
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Got my TC6 kit today! The Big Brown Truck just dropped it off.

Guess what? Yup, one of the bulkheads has the now classic oversize hole with no threads! That's a fraternity I didn't want to join. Gonna have to give AE a call tomorrow first thing.

I'm probably going to go ahead and assemble all of the other sub assemblies, just to make sure nothing else is missing!
OK, called Associated, and the service rep said that they had 4 or 5 other reports of bad bulkheads like mine, according to his computer. He's sending out a new part and a SASE for the old one back! Pretty cool.

I went ahead and put the rest of the car together. Everything else was there, algthough I swapped out some of the arm mount bushing hardware for longer stuff. I'm not satisfied unless I have full thread engagement through the bulkhead with the shims that I'm using. Did the same thing with the TC5, and it made a huge difference to crash survivability.

I also sub'd in some ceramic diff and thrust bearing balls (thanks MurffDog motors). Using the tqcookie ball scrubbing method and orienting the numbers correctly towards the ball, I was able to loosen up the ball ends pretty good, at least good enough for a first run when my replacement bulkhead comes in. A 78 tooth standard Kimbrough spur fit fine, and allows the use of the bottom and front mount holes. The pinion seems to fit and engage better with the stem away from the motor vice against the motor. Actually makes it easier to get to the set screw, too.

On another positive note, I'm mega pleased to note that the steering bellcrank has NO play in the bearings or the bellcrank tube. The TC5 is terrible for slop in this area, even with brand new parts and shimming and using locktite on the outer bearing races, but the TC6 is nice and slop free!

Test fit with the TOP velcro strap is a 100% good to go! Although I'm going to buy another inner lipo brace and mount one front and rear for extra insurance to keep the battery out of the belt.

Now, just waiting on Associated for my bulkhead and Tekin for my RS.
__________________
Tom Keith

Tekin & Sweep, thanks for all that you do for you know who!

Associated/T.O.P./Mugen/Fantom/Spektrum/Savox

Last edited by Buckaroo; 01-07-2011 at 05:39 PM.
Buckaroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
THE TRACK RACEWAY Apex Mid Atlantic RC Racing 28947 03-17-2017 11:30 AM
Team Associated TC5 RCknight Electric On-Road 13249 01-14-2017 06:34 AM
Team Associated TC6 KostaG Electric On-Road 8 07-04-2010 11:42 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:47 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net