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Old 04-10-2014, 08:07 AM   #10051
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Setting up a car for VTA and one for USGT and would like some suggestions on set up sheets. The track is medium bite asphalt.
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:42 AM   #10052
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Need some help. I'm trying to set up my front droop on my TC6 but I'm unable to because my shocks don't extend long enough to allow the A-arms to relax on the droop screw. When I install the shocks I'm having to lift the A-arms to install them. They are factory shocks along with factory bladders as well. Nothing is binding because when shocks are removed the arms fall like they should and rest on the droop screw. Is it something I'm doing wrong or is that how they are supposed to work? Also I'm still a bit of a newb with Touring cars only have one solid race day and practice day under my belt so I'm still in the process of learning how to setup this car. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:50 AM   #10053
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Quote:
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Need some help. I'm trying to set up my front droop on my TC6 but I'm unable to because my shocks don't extend long enough to allow the A-arms to relax on the droop screw. When I install the shocks I'm having to lift the A-arms to install them. They are factory shocks along with factory bladders as well. Nothing is binding because when shocks are removed the arms fall like they should and rest on the droop screw. Is it something I'm doing wrong or is that how they are supposed to work? Also I'm still a bit of a newb with Touring cars only have one solid race day and practice day under my belt so I'm still in the process of learning how to setup this car. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Wil
check out this book here, it should cover what you need to get started:
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/showfile.p...252739b1ad8c24
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:50 AM   #10054
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Will,
Using a pair of calipers, measure the length of the shock with the calipers inside the ball-cup and shock cap end. You should get a length of about 60-61 mm. It's important that the left and right sides are the same length (if within 0.05 mm that's fine). If you are overall too short, back off the ball cup on the shock shaft to get to the right length. What roll center blocks and shock positions are you using?
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:08 AM   #10055
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Okay I'll try and measure them. I'm using the One dot roll center blocks in the A position. The shocks are 4B position.
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #10056
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Brian I'm sure you'll get a good laugh but I don't have a set of calipers. They are now on my list to buy seems like they are used a good bit. Anyways I used a CM rule and converted to MM. I got 2cm of length and converted to mm it comes out as 20mm. What would be causing me to not get the length of 60mm?
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:26 AM   #10057
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My mistake I measured the shock shaft. Measuring as you stated I got 47.5mm.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:13 AM   #10058
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Quote:
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My mistake I measured the shock shaft. Measuring as you stated I got 47.5mm.
Is there a possibility that spacers or extra "o" rings were installed under the pistons? This is a common tuning aid for off road and I have seen others do this instead of using the droop screws.
Make sure you are measuring from the top of the shock to the end of the eyelet.
It is also possible that the wrong (short) eyelet ends are installed causing the length issue.

Can you post a picture?
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:35 AM   #10059
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Hey Wil, you definitely want to take the shocks apart and rebuild to instructions. I bet YoDog is right and you have a few spacer under your pistons. If not, just Unscrew the ball cup to get the length you need. If you are at One Lug on Saturday see Brent, he is a good guy and will help you with that shock issue.

Take pictures so most of us can help you better.

I hope to see you at Thunder RC on the 27th running VTA.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:40 AM   #10060
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If you're at 47.5 mm then you either have spacers/o-rings under the piston as downtravel limiters as the others said, or you have the wrong shock shafts.
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:40 AM   #10061
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Or you might use the wrong ballcups.
Use the same ballcups als used on the camber links. Do not use the old shock ballcups from the original TC6 which are shorter.

Greetings, Jan-Peter
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:07 PM   #10062
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Hey guys sold my TC6 and I have a Yodog servo mount left if anyone is interested.
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:40 PM   #10063
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Alright guys. Here is my new assumptions. I still didn't understand where to measure to but I remeasured from top of shock cap to eyelet and received 57.5mm but I adjusted like will suggested and got 61mm. Only thing is when you adjust the spring is lose on the shock? How would I go about correcting that? Got some pic's this time.

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Old 04-13-2014, 09:31 PM   #10064
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Also have another couple questions. Does the TC6.1 WC are the vertical ball studs and shocks towers lower than than the TC6 and TC6.1 FT? I would like to try and have lowered shock towers if possible I've looked at the RSD lowered shock tower kit but unsure on part availability. Also would it be worth it to get the TC6.1 WC chassis for the TC6? Would it improve performance other than chassis flex?
wil
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Old 04-13-2014, 10:25 PM   #10065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wil Holmes View Post
Also have another couple questions. Does the TC6.1 WC are the vertical ball studs and shocks towers lower than than the TC6 and TC6.1 FT? I would like to try and have lowered shock towers if possible I've looked at the RSD lowered shock tower kit but unsure on part availability. Also would it be worth it to get the TC6.1 WC chassis for the TC6? Would it improve performance other than chassis flex?
wil
Ok, now put the tires on the car, set it on a flat surface and adjust the ride height via the spring collars to achieve 5mm all around. The slack in the springs should now be gone. The next thing will be to set the droop. There are many techniques to do this but for now just follow the manual.
I think the shock towers are basically the same up to the TC6.2 they just eliminated the upper link mounting points once they switched to the vertical ball studs. The WC chassis plate is a big improvement over the original stock unit. I found it to be more consistent than the thin, flexy TC6 chassis and less prone to tweaking as it's stiffer material does not yield so easily.
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