Team Associated TC6 Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Without boost, I would start with FDR 5.2 and gear up if needed.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I've been running USGT (21.5T) for a while and a 3.5 FDR is great for fast corner speed, if I ran 3.7 to 4.0 then my car would accelerate too fast and tend to be more twitchy on corner exit.
I'm currently running a 3.3 FDR (48P @ 66/40) which is the sweet spot so I can drop the hammer throughout most corners without breaking loose and maximize top speed on the straights, I'd say I'm about 0.5 - 1.0 sec faster per lap than with a 3.5 FDR where our track average is around 15-17 second laps for most drivers in this class in blinky mode at my local club to give you an idea of what our track size is on an outdoor asphalt track with medium grip.
I'm running a Turnigy TrackStar 21.5T + 3Racing cooling fan and my motor temps come off around 130° after 12min mains.
New guy here....
I need to add 200 grams for usvta. I have the associated weight set.
Can anyone post pics of their chassis for reference......
Thanks
I need to add 200 grams for usvta. I have the associated weight set.
Can anyone post pics of their chassis for reference......
Thanks
You want it as low and as centerlined as possible. Are you weighing the car with the body? because 200 grams seems a bit much for a 6 or 6.1
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (29)
200 grams is probably close. I run my 6.1 in USGT and I had to put 80 grams on to hit 1450 grams. USVTA minimum weight is 1550 so I would need 180 grams to be legal.
I am using a 4000 mah battery instead of the allowed 5000.
I thought it might be better to add weight to the center, than the edge ie heavier battery.
The 4000 is around 70 grams lighter than the 5000.
The car is the 6.1
I thought it might be better to add weight to the center, than the edge ie heavier battery.
The 4000 is around 70 grams lighter than the 5000.
The car is the 6.1
I would say 200 grams is about right. I'm running a TC6 and having to add a little over 100 grams and thats with a 5000 battery.
This might be a dumb question, but on this tc6 should the front slipper spool slip? The one I bought does not. I was wondering if it should. Looked at the manual all it said was to fully tighten the thrust screw.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
my front spool slips a little if I apply enough pressure... so far I haven't broken any CVD's when hitting any boards in tight corners... knock on wood...literally...LOL
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
The slipper spool is a great design. I like using mine over the new spool as it has been far more reliable. The slipper should be tight but should give a little when you hit stuff. You kinda have to develop a feel for how tight.
Tech Adept
Ball Bearing Question
Hi there,
I bought a second hand TC6.1 a while ago. After my first race I took a closer look at the car. I found out that 4 out of the eight ball bearings for the wheel shafts were broken. To my surprise these bearings were size 10x6x3 instead of the 10x5 that are mentioned in the manual I downloaded.
Does anyone know about this issue? Are the 10x6x3 bearings an older version of the car? Or a newer one? When I buy spare parts do they come with a 6mm or a 5mm shaft?
Thanks for your help
Andy
I bought a second hand TC6.1 a while ago. After my first race I took a closer look at the car. I found out that 4 out of the eight ball bearings for the wheel shafts were broken. To my surprise these bearings were size 10x6x3 instead of the 10x5 that are mentioned in the manual I downloaded.
Does anyone know about this issue? Are the 10x6x3 bearings an older version of the car? Or a newer one? When I buy spare parts do they come with a 6mm or a 5mm shaft?
Thanks for your help
Andy
The TC6 has the smaller bearings. The 6.1 and 6.2 use the newer suspension molds. These are made for the larger bearings. I would recommend to buy the smaller bearings. If you hit the boards often buy ceramic bearings. These will last longer. Or buy the new suspension parts... Your choice
Tech Regular
Hi there,
I bought a second hand TC6.1 a while ago. After my first race I took a closer look at the car. I found out that 4 out of the eight ball bearings for the wheel shafts were broken. To my surprise these bearings were size 10x6x3 instead of the 10x5 that are mentioned in the manual I downloaded.
Does anyone know about this issue? Are the 10x6x3 bearings an older version of the car? Or a newer one? When I buy spare parts do they come with a 6mm or a 5mm shaft?
Thanks for your help
Andy
I bought a second hand TC6.1 a while ago. After my first race I took a closer look at the car. I found out that 4 out of the eight ball bearings for the wheel shafts were broken. To my surprise these bearings were size 10x6x3 instead of the 10x5 that are mentioned in the manual I downloaded.
Does anyone know about this issue? Are the 10x6x3 bearings an older version of the car? Or a newer one? When I buy spare parts do they come with a 6mm or a 5mm shaft?
Thanks for your help
Andy
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
I have personally used the ZZ Titanium screws with good results and they are less expensive than the AE aluminum screws. As with any light weight screws, it is best not to over torque them as the heads strip easier than steel. Use a hi quality, well fitting driver to lessen this possibility.
You can get titanium screws, but they are expensive:
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...de=CARS-ASTC61
I personally use steel screws:
http://www.zzracing.net/stainless-st...c61-p-292.html
And reduce the 10-30 grams of weight you would save some other way, such as using a light weight body shell (painted lightly also):
http://racepf.com/touring-car-190mm/mazdaspeed-6-light/
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...de=CARS-ASTC61
I personally use steel screws:
http://www.zzracing.net/stainless-st...c61-p-292.html
And reduce the 10-30 grams of weight you would save some other way, such as using a light weight body shell (painted lightly also):
http://racepf.com/touring-car-190mm/mazdaspeed-6-light/
Titanium Screw Set For AE TC6.2:http://www.rzhobby.com/titanium-scre...c62-p-460.html