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Old 12-18-2013, 10:42 AM   #9856
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makes sense but why do you say the measurements is that what makes the car 190 mm?
Typically I don't run the maximum width. I usually only change the front track width to adjust the characteristics of the car depending on traction levels.
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:15 PM   #9857
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Typically I don't run the maximum width. I usually only change the front track width to adjust the characteristics of the car depending on traction levels.
I should be able to notice a 2mm difference correct? I put a mm shim on each axle and didnt really notice much
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:51 PM   #9858
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The difference in feel should be more obvious if you only shim the front or the rear axle. If you shim both, the car should look and feel faster and more agile without having a speed change greater than 50 thousands a lap (my experience).
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:24 PM   #9859
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I should be able to notice a 2mm difference correct? I put a mm shim on each axle and didnt really notice much
You will in high traction conditions where traction roll may be a concern.
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:30 AM   #9860
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I just got a 6.1 wc and I was wondering is there any good starting point when tuning for 17.5 Blinky
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:28 AM   #9861
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What are you all using for wheel shims? just spacers or do they have a hex shaped spacer?
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:22 AM   #9862
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Wheel shims not being a smart @$$ but thats what they are called I think we got them from rsd I just tried those on the actual axil as a quick adjustment to see what it did id use smaller metalic ones if I were tobuse them on them bulkhead with the toe blocks

So your saying that if I shim out my entire car 1mm per side itll go faster because its nimbler?
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:25 AM   #9863
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I just got a 6.1 wc and I was wondering is there any good starting point when tuning for 17.5 Blinky

This set up seems to work on carpet and asphalt for me...with little changes here any there depending on track condition and layout..

Ride height..Front 5 rear 5.2
Camber.........front 1.5 rear 2m
Toe.................front 1 rear 3
Caster...........front 4 rear 0
Shock position front 2a rear 3a
Camber link..front v2 rear v2
Inn ball and shims..front blk1m for carpet...blk no shim for asphalt.. rear blk none
Outer ball &shims..front silver 1m rear silver 2m
Fwd arm mount front...3a+1.5mshims rear 0b offset
Rwd arm mounts front..0b rear 0b offset
Droop front 6 rear 5
Roll bar..front yellow rear white
Oil...front 37.1/2 rear 35
Piston..3 hole
Rebound 50%
Springs....front ae silver rear ae silver
Spool or gear diff up to you
Rear diff...1k
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #9864
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Originally Posted by rc car guy View Post
Wheel shims not being a smart @$$ but thats what they are called I think we got them from rsd I just tried those on the actual axil as a quick adjustment to see what it did id use smaller metalic ones if I were tobuse them on them bulkhead with the toe blocks

So your saying that if I shim out my entire car 1mm per side itll go faster because its nimbler?
You may want to use the "quote" button so we know what your comments are referring to.
Making the car wider does not make it more nimble. Wide front track vs rear will increase lateral grip/increase steering. Making the front narrower vs rear will take some steering away/less lateral grip. Track width will also change roll center so take that into account when changing width. A wide track lowers roll center and narrow raises roll center. This is the primary reason I make the car wider for carpet because you want a low roll center in high traction conditions to avoid rolling over in the turns. I know this may sound counter intuitive but it does work.
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:39 PM   #9865
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What are you all using for wheel shims? just spacers or do they have a hex shaped spacer?
Several companies make wheel spacers/shims. TOP, Spec-R, 3Racing Etc.
They are usually round Washer-like in various thickness. Most people don't go any thicker than 1.5mm because it will reduce contact area from the wheel to the hex hub and thread length on the axle.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:20 PM   #9866
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Several companies make wheel spacers/shims. TOP, Spec-R, 3Racing Etc.
They are usually round Washer-like in various thickness. Most people don't go any thicker than 1.5mm because it will reduce contact area from the wheel to the hex hub and thread length on the axle.
which is why the guy said you could do it on the arm mounts but i dont know how many of those plastics shims you can put inbetween the arms and the bulkhead before it becomes unstable maybe 2mm worth you might have to use a longer screw im talking about the toe block shims i have a whole bunch and they are in a good size for it or an oval shaped one with the hole on one end
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:08 PM   #9867
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which is why the guy said you could do it on the arm mounts but i dont know how many of those plastics shims you can put inbetween the arms and the bulkhead before it becomes unstable maybe 2mm worth you might have to use a longer screw im talking about the toe block shims i have a whole bunch and they are in a good size for it or an oval shaped one with the hole on one end
The offset mounts already add 2mm per side from the original TC6 mounts. This spacing became the norm so AE made offset mounts to eliminate the 2mm shims. If you are adding more than 1.5mm shims to what is already 2mm wider, you are going way out of the designed specs. Stick with either the kit setup or one of the team configurations to get in the ballpark. If you deviate too far from this, your car will perform like ass. My parking lot setup posted on petit RC has been working great for most of the year with very little change for different conditions. I usually just need to work with different tires depending on grip levels and temp. Good luck!
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:16 PM   #9868
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Thanks alot Johnson. Much appreciated
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:21 PM   #9869
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This might be a little off topic but is there any recommendations for electronics. I'm broke trying to build this car lol. I got lucky and Ron Schuur is hooking me up with a fresh motor for Blinky. What kinda esc can I get at a decent price that's roar legal and has a program card system. And how about a servo? And last but not least I know battery will hit the pockets but everyone at my track runs roar legal 7000nah 100c. Any suggestions? This is literally my first car build and could use any help. And Johnson I'm starting out with the set up you recommend thanks again.
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:52 AM   #9870
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This might be a little off topic but is there any recommendations for electronics. I'm broke trying to build this car lol. I got lucky and Ron Schuur is hooking me up with a fresh motor for Blinky. What kinda esc can I get at a decent price that's roar legal and has a program card system. And how about a servo? And last but not least I know battery will hit the pockets but everyone at my track runs roar legal 7000nah 100c. Any suggestions? This is literally my first car build and could use any help. And Johnson I'm starting out with the set up you recommend thanks again.
I hear the savox servos are decent for the money and hobbywing just stock speedo is like 60 bucks ot something like that the battery I run the fantom 6500 I think they are like 80 bucks or something like that but yout probably going to drop a min of 200 electronics including tax and shipping also youll need a good fan thats another 15 bucks ish
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