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Old 11-29-2013, 08:58 AM   #9811
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maybe consider a dual fan mount with one of the fans directed on the end bell?

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...8#.UpjHYOKozKE

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Old 11-29-2013, 02:48 PM   #9812
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right so would it be better to run a heat sink, and a fan? i have an apex 2 or something like that, with no vent holes i believe so that isnt a viable option at the moment. also i have non anodized and anodized heat sinks (different colors, and sizes). and what about direction towards the motor(infront or behind) which is better?
I use two fans, one in front and one behind. Works really well for 17.5 motors where heat is usually an issue.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:27 AM   #9813
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what's a good rear diff fluid weight to run? I've seen lots of different fluids on numerous setup sheets. i'm running vta and sometimes usgt on carpet. mine developed a leak and now has no fluid. I don't know what was in it as I bought the car used. thanks.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:05 AM   #9814
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I use two fans, one in front and one behind. Works really well for 17.5 motors where heat is usually an issue.
There was another post above this one in regards to having the heat sink with the fans. I First started out like that but it honestly didn't compare to the 30mm fans that are out there now specifically made for rc cars. Like the R1 wurks fans. No camparison to what I was running b4. I use that as an example and others I'm sure will chime in on other 30mm fans. Many other top racers use this type of setup at norcal hobbies plus its roar approved. Im pretty sure two fans are NOT roar approved. But if you're not racing that kind of races then you don't have to worry about that. Again though the one 30mm fan are much more effective then the heat sink two low output fan setups. I Do recommend trying out the R1 wurks fans as they are the very strong/very well might be the strongest and less expensive. Hope this help out.

Now to the gear diff oil for your VTA...I Don't run VTA. I Run 17.5 blinky. I'm sure its not too far off. But the ranges do vary from 450 cst to 1000 cst. I personally have found that I like a lighter diff oil for a quicker rotation into the turns. The lighter the diff oil the easier the car will turn in. But I'm told the heavier the diff oil the better exist speed you will have. I personally like the better turn in, n haven't really notice a significant amount of loss in exit speed. What I would suggest to you is, talking to the top vta racers there n see what they use for a similar car Hope that helps bud. Good luck!
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:17 AM   #9815
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So I have read that 6.1 battery and servo dont flex with the chassis what would the car do if I made it able to more traction? Or somethijg like that?
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:28 AM   #9816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edonsohc View Post
what's a good rear diff fluid weight to run? I've seen lots of different fluids on numerous setup sheets. i'm running vta and sometimes usgt on carpet. mine developed a leak and now has no fluid. I don't know what was in it as I bought the car used. thanks.
I think im running 2k in mine seems to work well and if that doesnt work thinner=more corner steering and higher weight= more high speed steering less turn in steering
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:21 AM   #9817
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Originally Posted by rc car guy View Post
So I have read that 6.1 battery and servo dont flex with the chassis what would the car do if I made it able to more traction? Or somethijg like that?
This is not quite true. The chassis does flex under the battery and servo, it just doesn't flex symmetrically. A floating servo mount will give you more room to place your electronics and move some of the weight forward on that side of the chassis. It also places the mounting point at the center of the chassis which allows the chassis to flex more equal from left to right. The purpose is not for more traction. These methods are for allowing better balance and a more consistent tuning window. The primary purpose for increased chassis flex is to create a wide tuning window which makes the car easier to setup and drive.
A stiff car will usually be faster but it's much harder to find the "sweet spot".
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #9818
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hm alright well i will keep that in mind and test with that tomorrow, cars on rails now super fast, and super good

has anyone thought of making less rotating mass parts such as the spur gear mounts? or better/ lighter cva's
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:57 PM   #9819
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does anyone know of a titanium/aluminum screw kit for the 6.1? other than associated kit i want it to be lighter than the stock screws. also i hear that the alum. screws that go into alum. can sieze anyone have any suggestions on how to stop that from happening
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:24 AM   #9820
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Don't worry! I use AE's aluminium screws everywhere in my car (except for armmounts and motor) and didn't have a problem for the last two years. You only have to accept that you cannot use brutal force to tighten them. For maximum weight reduction add AE's titanium ballstuds to your car.
Haters will tell you aluminium screws are to weak and will not work bla bla, but it is simply not true
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:46 AM   #9821
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You can get titanium screws, but they are expensive:

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...de=CARS-ASTC61

I personally use steel screws:

http://www.zzracing.net/stainless-st...c61-p-292.html

And reduce the 10-30 grams of weight you would save some other way, such as using a light weight body shell (painted lightly also):

http://racepf.com/touring-car-190mm/mazdaspeed-6-light/
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:38 AM   #9822
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I have personally used the ZZ Titanium screws with good results and they are less expensive than the AE aluminum screws. As with any light weight screws, it is best not to over torque them as the heads strip easier than steel. Use a hi quality, well fitting driver to lessen this possibility.
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:42 AM   #9823
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It's true that a light weight body makes a big difference. I have had no real change in durability since switching over and since my cars handle better, I crash far less. ;-)
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:05 AM   #9824
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I had a fairly new ltc r light weight body and it got trashed even with shoe goo and dry wall tape so I can reduce the weight sone but I was still interested I need about twenty grams lost but I can save some more wire just have to make sure that its balanced again
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:16 PM   #9825
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anyone have a super clean super minimalistic wiring job and what do you guys think of 14gauge instead of 12 guage wire?
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