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Old 07-29-2013, 09:03 PM   #9481
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I just bought a tc6.1 off of ebay. I have a fe sc trucks but this is my first on road.

It has the hpi vta spec tires on it. This means that its not set up for a 200mm body instead of 190mm correct? And if so will any 200mm body work and look right vta or something new?
My vta body was 200mm. I used the 6mm offset wheels just to fit the gap.

Crappy pic.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:16 PM   #9482
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So i do need a 200 you're saying?
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:25 PM   #9483
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So i do need a 200 you're saying?
Not sure if all vta legal bodies are 200. Check and see with the one you want. But hpi makes the vta wheels in 0mm, 3mm and 6mm offset.

Looks like they are all 200mm. Yes you'll want a 200mm or get slicks and run a protoform 190 body.

Take a look at this vta section. Look at the wheels you need as well.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...p?s_cate_id=21

Fyi the tires have been hard to find. Many hpi items are weeks out so get another set off ebay if you don't have any spares in case they run out.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #9484
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Car came with the hpi vta spec and extras as well as hpi x patterns. Would only a 200mm vta body work or could any new model 200 work the same with vta offset?
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:40 PM   #9485
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Definitely go WAY up in front diff oil weight, IMO. I was running either a gear diff with 2.5 million(!) in it or a slipper spool with success. I've run as light as 50k in the front on asphalt and it was fine on a low powered VTA car, but for carpet I ran much higher. Hope this helps!

Oh, another question... Has the car always performed like this on carpet since you built it or has this been a gradual change over time?
the entire car spec should be given!

VTA, 17.5, 1s, blinky

I was one of the guys that informed him to run a lighter oil in a gear diff in front, to cure a problem of not being able to get the car to rotate on your more tight tracks.

in sedan and 25.5 2s vta i run spool or thick gear diff, but the car has more power.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:49 PM   #9486
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This is what I have to work with.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:50 PM   #9487
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Car came with the hpi vta spec and extras as well as hpi x patterns. Would only a 200mm vta body work or could any new model 200 work the same with vta offset?
Yes a 200 would be ideal so you don't rub. They make touring car bodies in 200 if you don't want a vta body. I have the protoform p37 190 and fits snug with hpi 6mm rears and 3mm front with x patters (same as your vta offset). The rears are close to the body but they don't rub much at all. All depends if you are going to run vta class or not.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:51 PM   #9488
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Shows the other tires
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:54 PM   #9489
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Thanks I appreciate the help a lot. Not planning on racing any class. Just going to have fun with it. I prefer the look of the new touring car bodies over vta.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:10 PM   #9490
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Thanks I appreciate the help a lot. Not planning on racing any class. Just going to have fun with it. I prefer the look of the new touring car bodies over vta.
Ok so not worry about vta then.

Look here at their modern none vta 200mm bodies
http://racepf.com/products

Look here at hpi all 190 & 200mm bodies.http://www.hpiracing.com/en/product_...uct_group_190C

Take a look a tamiyas as well. They are expensive though.

Here is my gt3 200mm body I painted.




Ps careful with those tamiya bodies. Some are for inboard shock suspension. They don't have shock towers so the bodies are lower therefore not fitting our tc6.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:51 AM   #9491
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That looks good! I just bought a zonda body.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:46 AM   #9492
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Ps careful with those tamiya bodies. Some are for inboard shock suspension. They don't have shock towers so the bodies are lower therefore not fitting our tc6.
I will show a 0$ conversation to master this obstacle tomorrow.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:31 AM   #9493
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This is what I have to work with.
it looks USVTA ready...if you ever get the need/want to sale it...drop me a pm...Ive got plenty looking at the moment

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Old 07-30-2013, 08:37 AM   #9494
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My vta body was 200mm. I used the 6mm offset wheels just to fit the gap.
I have that same body and I used regular HPI VTA wheels These for Rear and These for Front





The wheels fit good under the body and dont rub. I can slam the body where the tires upper portion is inside the car and still turn without rubbing.

Are there certain bodies where the offsets are required? I've always just bought these same rims. But this is the only body I have had so far. My next body will be the HPI 68 Camaro maybe that body would need wider offsets for the 200/210mm width.


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Old 07-31-2013, 06:39 AM   #9495
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Default LCG TC6

Now as promised the low budget lcg conversation for the TC6 that enables the use of EuroGT and Tamiya IFS bodies.

1. First of all you need 2mm shims, some square centimeters carbonfiber or similar, two servo mounts and a Dremel.
2. Take your TC6 and remove the diff clamps, shocktower, shocks, suspension arms, diff, topdeck and belt (depending on which of the above mentioned body you want to use do everything for the rear also!).
3. Take your Dremel and remove the inner stiffener next to the shock of the suspension arm. This will give space for the lay down shocks later.





As we are at it make inline slits on the bulkheads between the screwholes for the topeck. Check with your favourite anti-roll-bar if it is fully sunk in. Because of the angled shocks we have to attach the anti-roll-bar inward.



4. Now as the Dremel gets warm put it away and let it cool. Take a ruler, a pen and a little of your cfk and build yourself a horseshoe formed upper suspension link mount. This is the most difficult part as you have to take a lot of measurements (pm me for the dimensions). If you like long links in front you can skip this part!



5. This point is to choose for everyone: Cut off the two front holes of the top deck (cutting them will lower the suspension link mount). Make sure you don't cut too short as you need the topdeck to hold the anti-roll-bar in place.

6. Do a little cfk plate with two 3mm holes (28mm apart) and remove a little material so that the front diff fits underneath it (check how much after installing the servo mounts.

What you have as result for all the "hard" work:



OK, this was some work already, but you can skip some of it depending on how much functionality you want. If you came that far and are still at it then you can enjoy the fun part now: Installing all parts

7. Start with the topdeck and the anti-roll-bars (lenghten the ballcup parts installed on the suspension arm until it stands vertical).



8. Install the horseshoe looking plate for the linkage (add the ballstuds now at this point with your favourite geometry).



9. Take diffcams and cut off the upper lip so that it has a horizontal upper look (see pic step 4).

10. Install Diff and cams.



11. Put the 2mm shims underneath the servomounts and install both on the bulkhead. They will hold the diffcam in its place.





12. Take a long buttonheadscrew and twist it through the upper shock mounts. Take the little plate from step 6 and push the screw through it. Now attach everything on the servomount. Do the same for the other side.
















And thats it basically. I admit I just wrote it down as if it is nothing, which is not true. For a quality (looking) result you need to work with precision. But everyone can do it and as you can see the chassis can be used with GT bodies (and/or lcg) easily without sacrificing any of its function.





I hope you enjoyed this.
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