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Old 07-02-2013, 05:30 PM   #9361
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Well VW, You just taught me something. For whatever reason I was totally oblivious to this hole being there. I never noticed it before. the one worry I might have is that that slider might not give as much support to the motor in an impact situation. But hey at worst its a blown motor mount meaning I would have more reason to buy one of yodog's aftermarket ones. I am now switching to this slider to try it out.

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Old 07-02-2013, 06:50 PM   #9362
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Ha! 20+ years of experience and I finally sound like I know what I'm talking about!!
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #9363
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I'm back!!
Ok guys, from what I am reading, I think I should chime in.

1) I never use the rear motor screw. (the one behind the spur gear)The two forward ones are enough to hold the motor well. If you want a bit more holding power, use cap head screws instead of the buttons.
2) Same goes for the lay shaft screws. I have a bunch of 2.5mm cap heads in stainless steel for this location. If anyone is local I will be happy to share.
3) Some motors (trinity based) don't have the flat cut all the way back on the shaft thus not allowing the pinion to sit in the right position to get full mesh. I either dremel or machine the flat on all my rotors to allow the pinion to fit properly. This way everything fits as it was designed with no rubbing. Motor spacers can help a little but keep in mind that this will change the balance of the car by hanging the motor further out.
4) I usually slip my pinion past the front belt onto the motor shaft with both the flat and set screw visible from the top of the car. I only tighten the screw enough to locate on the flat then I rotate the pinion (the shaft will rotate with the pinion now) so that the set screw is visible from the bottom of the car via the opening. With one hand I hold the pinion flush with the spur and tighten the set screw with the other.
5) The lay shaft will not come out easily if both belts are attached to the pulleys. the tension won't allow it to lift past the mounts. This is why I roll the front belt off of the front pulley. This will allow the front belt to be completely slack without removing anything. now all you have to do is remove the 2 lay shaft screws and it's out.
I can usually change the spur in about 1 to 2 minutes.

I hope this is helpful...
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #9364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fresnojay View Post
Well VW, You just taught me something. For whatever reason I was totally oblivious to this hole being there. I never noticed it before. the one worry I might have is that that slider might not give as much support to the motor in an impact situation. But hey at worst its a blown motor mount meaning I would have more reason to buy one of yodog's aftermarket ones. I am now switching to this slider to try it out.

Jason
The new mount will have 3 slots that are accessible despite the spur gear and I've added an additional 1mm of travel for a wider range of gear combinations.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:13 PM   #9365
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Thanks bro, I'll take a look at my pinion problem again in the morning. When you gonna have some floating servo mounts ready?
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:50 AM   #9366
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+ 1.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:35 AM   #9367
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Originally Posted by vw addict View Post
Thanks bro, I'll take a look at my pinion problem again in the morning. When you gonna have some floating servo mounts ready?
It's been tough to make more servo mounts due to many circumstances one of which is the motor mount design. I have been experimenting with different machining approaches as to make the parts with fewer setups. At the moment, the mount is a bit complicated to machine with the tools I have and the excessive time will increase cost too much to be practical. I'm getting closer so be patient.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:54 AM   #9368
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well if you get a motor mount done, and need someone to test it for you.. let me know

My current motor mount is in pretty bad shape

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It's been tough to make more servo mounts due to many circumstances one of which is the motor mount design. I have been experimenting with different machining approaches as to make the parts with fewer setups. At the moment, the mount is a bit complicated to machine with the tools I have and the excessive time will increase cost too much to be practical. I'm getting closer so be patient.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:42 AM   #9369
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3) Some motors (trinity based) don't have the flat cut all the way back on the shaft thus not allowing the pinion to sit in the right position to get full mesh. I either dremel or machine the flat on all my rotors to allow the pinion to fit properly. This way everything fits as it was designed with no rubbing. Motor spacers can help a little but keep in mind that this will change the balance of the car by hanging the motor further out
Yeah, I'm seeing this problem now...... Is a dremel adequate to grind the shaft down or should I get fun and head to my buddy's Bridgeport? Also, PM sent to you.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:25 PM   #9370
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Yeah, I'm seeing this problem now...... Is a dremel adequate to grind the shaft down or should I get fun and head to my buddy's Bridgeport? Also, PM sent to you.
If it were me and I had the time, I would chuck it up in the mill and do it right. I've gone the Dremel way a couple of times since I needed to make the modification trackside but it's always better to machine the flat. Just be sure to use a carbide cutter.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:01 PM   #9371
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Hi guys,
I got a question about front tires wear out much more than the rear ones.
my tc6.1 has setup base on Rick's ROAR 2012 setup sheet.
the only change is:
I use Tamiya HF works special damper set with stiffer springs in front (RSD springs red) and softer ones in rear (RSD springs blue). along with damper oil 35 weight in front and 32.5 in rear.
My local track has continues hairpin and tight corners.
Tires are sorex 32 (it is winter here in OZ.)
BTW, I have Yodog's floating servo mount but don't think it will change the performance too much. I like it because it save a lot space and free from flex.
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:05 PM   #9372
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Originally Posted by sashimi999 View Post
Hi guys,
I got a question about front tires wear out much more than the rear ones.
my tc6.1 has setup base on Rick's ROAR 2012 setup sheet.
the only change is:
I use Tamiya HF works special damper set with stiffer springs in front (RSD springs red) and softer ones in rear (RSD springs blue). along with damper oil 35 weight in front and 32.5 in rear.
My local track has continues hairpin and tight corners.
Tires are sorex 32 (it is winter here in OZ.)
BTW, I have Yodog's floating servo mount but don't think it will change the performance too much. I like it because it save a lot space and free from flex.
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks.
I think your front tire wear is a result of the harder front springs. Maybe put the same springs all around. That should give you more steering and better tire wear.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:45 PM   #9373
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I think your front tire wear is a result of the harder front springs. Maybe put the same springs all around. That should give you more steering and better tire wear.
I make the front suspension a bit stiffer is because I like the quicker response of steering feel when turn in and more steering when out of corner.
I did tried same springs all around, I felt no enough steering...
have I done something wrong in other places?
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:43 PM   #9374
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The front tires will generally always wear more than rear tires in touring cars. The front end is constantly scrubbing off speed therefore more tire wear. Doesn't really matter harder front springs or matching.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:19 PM   #9375
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the quicker response of steering feel when turn in and more steering when out of corner.
This is exactly why the tires wear faster, try rotating them, keep the wear consistent. Are you running spool front, gear diff rear?
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