Team Associated TC6 Thread
#9361
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Well VW, You just taught me something. For whatever reason I was totally oblivious to this hole being there. I never noticed it before. the one worry I might have is that that slider might not give as much support to the motor in an impact situation. But hey at worst its a blown motor mount meaning I would have more reason to buy one of yodog's aftermarket ones. I am now switching to this slider to try it out.
Jason
Jason
#9362
Ha! 20+ years of experience and I finally sound like I know what I'm talking about!!
#9363
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
I'm back!!
Ok guys, from what I am reading, I think I should chime in.
1) I never use the rear motor screw. (the one behind the spur gear)The two forward ones are enough to hold the motor well. If you want a bit more holding power, use cap head screws instead of the buttons.
2) Same goes for the lay shaft screws. I have a bunch of 2.5mm cap heads in stainless steel for this location. If anyone is local I will be happy to share.
3) Some motors (trinity based) don't have the flat cut all the way back on the shaft thus not allowing the pinion to sit in the right position to get full mesh. I either dremel or machine the flat on all my rotors to allow the pinion to fit properly. This way everything fits as it was designed with no rubbing. Motor spacers can help a little but keep in mind that this will change the balance of the car by hanging the motor further out.
4) I usually slip my pinion past the front belt onto the motor shaft with both the flat and set screw visible from the top of the car. I only tighten the screw enough to locate on the flat then I rotate the pinion (the shaft will rotate with the pinion now) so that the set screw is visible from the bottom of the car via the opening. With one hand I hold the pinion flush with the spur and tighten the set screw with the other.
5) The lay shaft will not come out easily if both belts are attached to the pulleys. the tension won't allow it to lift past the mounts. This is why I roll the front belt off of the front pulley. This will allow the front belt to be completely slack without removing anything. now all you have to do is remove the 2 lay shaft screws and it's out.
I can usually change the spur in about 1 to 2 minutes.
I hope this is helpful...
Ok guys, from what I am reading, I think I should chime in.
1) I never use the rear motor screw. (the one behind the spur gear)The two forward ones are enough to hold the motor well. If you want a bit more holding power, use cap head screws instead of the buttons.
2) Same goes for the lay shaft screws. I have a bunch of 2.5mm cap heads in stainless steel for this location. If anyone is local I will be happy to share.
3) Some motors (trinity based) don't have the flat cut all the way back on the shaft thus not allowing the pinion to sit in the right position to get full mesh. I either dremel or machine the flat on all my rotors to allow the pinion to fit properly. This way everything fits as it was designed with no rubbing. Motor spacers can help a little but keep in mind that this will change the balance of the car by hanging the motor further out.
4) I usually slip my pinion past the front belt onto the motor shaft with both the flat and set screw visible from the top of the car. I only tighten the screw enough to locate on the flat then I rotate the pinion (the shaft will rotate with the pinion now) so that the set screw is visible from the bottom of the car via the opening. With one hand I hold the pinion flush with the spur and tighten the set screw with the other.
5) The lay shaft will not come out easily if both belts are attached to the pulleys. the tension won't allow it to lift past the mounts. This is why I roll the front belt off of the front pulley. This will allow the front belt to be completely slack without removing anything. now all you have to do is remove the 2 lay shaft screws and it's out.
I can usually change the spur in about 1 to 2 minutes.
I hope this is helpful...
#9364
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Well VW, You just taught me something. For whatever reason I was totally oblivious to this hole being there. I never noticed it before. the one worry I might have is that that slider might not give as much support to the motor in an impact situation. But hey at worst its a blown motor mount meaning I would have more reason to buy one of yodog's aftermarket ones. I am now switching to this slider to try it out.
Jason
Jason
#9365
Thanks bro, I'll take a look at my pinion problem again in the morning. When you gonna have some floating servo mounts ready?
#9366
+ 1.
#9367
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
It's been tough to make more servo mounts due to many circumstances one of which is the motor mount design. I have been experimenting with different machining approaches as to make the parts with fewer setups. At the moment, the mount is a bit complicated to machine with the tools I have and the excessive time will increase cost too much to be practical. I'm getting closer so be patient.
#9368
Tech Regular
iTrader: (22)
well if you get a motor mount done, and need someone to test it for you.. let me know
My current motor mount is in pretty bad shape
My current motor mount is in pretty bad shape
It's been tough to make more servo mounts due to many circumstances one of which is the motor mount design. I have been experimenting with different machining approaches as to make the parts with fewer setups. At the moment, the mount is a bit complicated to machine with the tools I have and the excessive time will increase cost too much to be practical. I'm getting closer so be patient.
#9369
3) Some motors (trinity based) don't have the flat cut all the way back on the shaft thus not allowing the pinion to sit in the right position to get full mesh. I either dremel or machine the flat on all my rotors to allow the pinion to fit properly. This way everything fits as it was designed with no rubbing. Motor spacers can help a little but keep in mind that this will change the balance of the car by hanging the motor further out
#9371
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Hi guys,
I got a question about front tires wear out much more than the rear ones.
my tc6.1 has setup base on Rick's ROAR 2012 setup sheet.
the only change is:
I use Tamiya HF works special damper set with stiffer springs in front (RSD springs red) and softer ones in rear (RSD springs blue). along with damper oil 35 weight in front and 32.5 in rear.
My local track has continues hairpin and tight corners.
Tires are sorex 32 (it is winter here in OZ.)
BTW, I have Yodog's floating servo mount but don't think it will change the performance too much. I like it because it save a lot space and free from flex.
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks.
I got a question about front tires wear out much more than the rear ones.
my tc6.1 has setup base on Rick's ROAR 2012 setup sheet.
the only change is:
I use Tamiya HF works special damper set with stiffer springs in front (RSD springs red) and softer ones in rear (RSD springs blue). along with damper oil 35 weight in front and 32.5 in rear.
My local track has continues hairpin and tight corners.
Tires are sorex 32 (it is winter here in OZ.)
BTW, I have Yodog's floating servo mount but don't think it will change the performance too much. I like it because it save a lot space and free from flex.
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks.
#9372
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Hi guys,
I got a question about front tires wear out much more than the rear ones.
my tc6.1 has setup base on Rick's ROAR 2012 setup sheet.
the only change is:
I use Tamiya HF works special damper set with stiffer springs in front (RSD springs red) and softer ones in rear (RSD springs blue). along with damper oil 35 weight in front and 32.5 in rear.
My local track has continues hairpin and tight corners.
Tires are sorex 32 (it is winter here in OZ.)
BTW, I have Yodog's floating servo mount but don't think it will change the performance too much. I like it because it save a lot space and free from flex.
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks.
I got a question about front tires wear out much more than the rear ones.
my tc6.1 has setup base on Rick's ROAR 2012 setup sheet.
the only change is:
I use Tamiya HF works special damper set with stiffer springs in front (RSD springs red) and softer ones in rear (RSD springs blue). along with damper oil 35 weight in front and 32.5 in rear.
My local track has continues hairpin and tight corners.
Tires are sorex 32 (it is winter here in OZ.)
BTW, I have Yodog's floating servo mount but don't think it will change the performance too much. I like it because it save a lot space and free from flex.
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks.
#9375