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Old 06-14-2013, 02:49 PM   #9301
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Originally Posted by rbarciko View Post
I can no longer find the original website, so I can't take the credit for these, but these tables show what spurs and pinions fit in a TC6 for 48 and 64 pitch:

http://deckjockey.com/tc6/wp-content.../08/gear64.png

http://deckjockey.com/tc6/wp-content.../08/gear48.png
GOOD!!!!



http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php for tc6/tc6.1/tc6.1.we

and for older TC5
http://abram.eu.org/gear.php
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:59 PM   #9302
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I could never really tell the difference in car performance when I change the shock angle. What differences should I see on stood-up vs lay-down on lay-down on the tower because accounts differ... does standing up the front shock give you more turn-in and sstanding up the rear gives more rear bite? I've never really gotten a hold of this...
I've been spending some time with this myself. Usually many of us can't tell much difference when changing a particular setting because the baseline setup is so out of whack that a change in something could yield opposite results or none at all. I've had people poopoo suggestions that I make because they say they "already tried it and hate it". After looking more closely to their car, you begin to realize that there are some fundamental problems with the chassis to begin with. No wonder the change didn't work as expected.
So anyhoo... laying the shocks down will make them more "progressive" meaning that they will initially compress easily and get stiffer as they compress further. This will act like a soft setup under small changes in weight transfer and stiff with larger changes in weight transfer. This goes for front to rear as well as side to side. On a properly setup car, this can increase grip at initial movement. Shocks standing more upright is more linear and reacts quicker. So as the weight is transferred, the car feels more "live".
Now, if the chassis is poorly setup or too flexible, these changes will be less obvious and are not likely to fix the problem you may be having.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:34 PM   #9303
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I haven't had many problems with the car lately, it runs good but it seeme numb to changes in shock angle as long as I reset the droop/ride height correctly. Maybe it's because I adjust my steering dual-rate to compensate for a loose or pushing car.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:03 PM   #9304
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Signing on as I AGAIN own a 6.1 Worlds and am now more active on these forums.

Rick, That motor mount looks killer! Put me on the list for one. Also I need to get another floater arm from you for the new car and maybe that servo piece you were working on if you have them ready now.

Jason
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:03 PM   #9305
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Signing on as I AGAIN own a 6.1 Worlds and am now more active on these forums.

Rick, That motor mount looks killer! Put me on the list for one. Also I need to get another floater arm from you for the new car and maybe that servo saver piece you were working on if you have them ready now.

Jason
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:33 AM   #9306
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Hello,

I was curious as to what hop ups are essential for this car. Has anyone tried the rsd chassis and bellcranks? And what is a good setup to start with? I will be running mod touring car on high bite asphalt.

Thanks,
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:37 AM   #9307
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie View Post
Hello,

I was curious as to what hop ups are essential for this car. Has anyone tried the rsd chassis and bellcranks? And what is a good setup to start with? I will be running mod touring car on high bite asphalt.

Thanks,
Kellen
In my opinion the must-haves are:

RSD DCJ drive shafts w/hex.
RSD tuning spring set.
AE gear diff (for front).

You may or may not use the gear diff but it is a nice thing to have on hand for tuning. And if you use the gear diff you probably won't need the DCJ drive shafts.

Some other nice items that are good to have but not required:

Yodog floating servo mount.
RSD soft shock bladders.
AE aluminum screw kit.

Modifications that I recommend:

Drill a 1.5mm hole in each shock cap.
Grind the left front bulkhead and top deck so that you can get full L/R steering throw when using the forward steering post hole.

You don't need much to make the car very good so don't worry about spending a lot of money when you don't have to.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:59 AM   #9308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
In my opinion the must-haves are:

RSD DCJ drive shafts w/hex.
RSD tuning spring set.
AE gear diff (for front).

You may or may not use the gear diff but it is a nice thing to have on hand for tuning. And if you use the gear diff you probably won't need the DCJ drive shafts.

Some other nice items that are good to have but not required:

Yodog floating servo mount.
RSD soft shock bladders.
AE aluminum screw kit.

Modifications that I recommend:

Drill a 1.5mm hole in each shock cap.
Grind the left front bulkhead and top deck so that you can get full L/R steering throw when using the forward steering post hole.

You don't need much to make the car very good so don't worry about spending a lot of money when you don't have to.
Alright thanks I will order those. I was just looking at the rsd chassis so I could run dual bellcranks instead.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:10 AM   #9309
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Grind the left front bulkhead and top deck so that you can get full L/R steering throw when using the forward steering post hole.
Rick to you have a pic of the mod you mention?
Thanks
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:58 AM   #9310
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Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
Rick to you have a pic of the mod you mention?
Thanks
Hard to see but you can see where the bulkhead and the steering rack has been ground down. Plus the top deck is ground as well.

If you use the floating servo mount, you can remove the steering arm and it will not interfere.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:18 AM   #9311
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Thanks Rick.
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:30 AM   #9312
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Thanks for the recommendation, Rick!
The new motor mount and racing has been taking up a bit of my time lately but I can see that another run of servo mounts is in order.
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:33 AM   #9313
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Originally Posted by fresnojay View Post
Signing on as I AGAIN own a 6.1 Worlds and am now more active on these forums.

Rick, That motor mount looks killer! Put me on the list for one. Also I need to get another floater arm from you for the new car and maybe that servo saver piece you were working on if you have them ready now.

Jason
Hey Jason, come and see me at the track next Saturday. I'm all sold out at the moment but will be making more parts real soon.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:37 PM   #9314
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Kellen, Like others have said the car can use some odds and ends but they are not too expensive. I don't have any of them at the moment and the car is running well even in its untuned state.

Rick, Will do. Can't wait to get her back out to the track for some tuning. I have got some more speed in her now. So we shall see how she does in that department.

Jason
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:46 AM   #9315
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Hard to see but you can see where the bulkhead and the steering rack has been ground down. Plus the top deck is ground as well.

If you use the floating servo mount, you can remove the steering arm and it will not interfere.
Hi Rick, do you run 3mm spacer under the ball link.? (in photo)
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