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Old 05-13-2013, 09:37 AM   #9181
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3x1.1 pistons are very nice. It is what I usually run.

As for the block locks, we discontinued the item. They were not different blocks, but rather some shims to help the suspension not get loose.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:01 AM   #9182
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Ok sounds good just placed an order for them. Also I was trying to contact u guys cristian reason being is that I ordered a few things this weekend and was wondering if everything can ship together vs separately. If possible can you guys email me back or give me a call names Tim thanks. If not its ok everything should be here by sat.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:24 PM   #9183
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Hey guys I have a question, does anyone know why docent associated sell the tc5r or the tc5f anymore
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:58 PM   #9184
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Any setup sheets from asphalt nationals?
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:10 PM   #9185
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Any setup sheets from asphalt nationals?
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:24 AM   #9186
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I have a LRP 17.5 and I was wondering whats a good starting final drive for my TC6.1 worlds car the track almost looks like Tamiyas track but reverse. Also I want to buy a radio I'm looking to buy one of these- Airtronics MX-V FHSS-2 2.4ghz, Spectrum RC DX3C DSM or the Futaba 3PL 2.4ghz FHSS, so if anybody has opionions the goods and bads of these radios please let me know cause I'm looking to buy asap. I'm leaning towards Spectrum cause the features and the small receiver cause its a tight fit in the worlds car but is most expensive out of the three. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:28 PM   #9187
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I have a LRP 17.5 and I was wondering whats a good starting final drive for my TC6.1 worlds car the track almost looks like Tamiyas track but reverse. Also I want to buy a radio I'm looking to buy one of these- Airtronics MX-V FHSS-2 2.4ghz, Spectrum RC DX3C DSM or the Futaba 3PL 2.4ghz FHSS, so if anybody has opionions the goods and bads of these radios please let me know cause I'm looking to buy asap. I'm leaning towards Spectrum cause the features and the small receiver cause its a tight fit in the worlds car but is most expensive out of the three. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
I would buy the futaba but that is my choice
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:44 PM   #9188
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Proper location of the tape for the Lipo will float it, but using in on the front and rear will float the Lipo but not allow the chassis to flex. The Lipo to keep all of its weight on the chassis at all times preventing it from flexing.

The front and rear tape should be half the width of the Lipo, and the center strip to be the full width to support the Lipo and the flexing is at the front and back of the Lipo.

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The two servo mounts will prevent the area underneath the servo from flexing naturally as well. Either get a floating servo mount or remove one of the mounts and use black servo tape under the servo so it will allow the chassis below it to flex.
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Loosen up all of the screws for the bulk heads give the chassis a few twists with a bit of force but not a super man twist and tighten the bulkhead screws up in a criss cross patten.


Then to remove tweak take your wheels off and put the car chassis flat on your setup board and loosen up all of your top deck screws and have somebody push down on the shock towers while you tighten your top deck screws in a criss cross pattern. Ive had my 6.1 tweak many times and stray under throttle and this has cured it every time.
Thanks for the help!! I will be getting it back together and see how it runs.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:19 PM   #9189
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I'm just a bit curious you guys....... Are the actual Team drivers for Associated using the floating servo mounts? I would really like to read Kevin, Mike or Rick's take on this . Are they testing this as we speak or are they doing something different?
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:24 AM   #9190
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...are they testing this as we speak or are they doing something different?
For sure they develope the successor of the actual WC and/or new parts these days. If it has a floating mount? I think AE will join this trend. I hope they introduce some new ideas with the TC6.2 or TC7 in a way Schumacher did with the Mi5.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:31 AM   #9191
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I guess it would be nice to see what's on Rick or Ollie's car compared to what the the average TC6 racer is driving.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:37 AM   #9192
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I've seen both Rick's and Kev's cars and they run an all stock TC6.1 WC.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:46 AM   #9193
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I've seen both Rick's and Kev's cars and they run an all stock TC6.1 WC.
The only non AE parts they run are different springs sometimes (HPI, Yok, RSD) and RSD Shock Bladders. They tell you this in their setups.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:10 AM   #9194
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...and this is something that is much more encouraging to drive this brand than having permanent winner Marc Völker hiding his car all the time, knowing it has nothing to do with a stock BD7.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:50 AM   #9195
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I guess it would be nice to see what's on Rick or Ollie's car compared to what the the average TC6 racer is driving.
We do test parts from aftermarket companies and do test potential hop ups from time to time, but I currently use very few non-kit parts.

Let's face it, AE does not offer the most useful spring set. However, the silver springs do work very well when a rate in this range is desired. I use silver springs at Tamiya USA's track. If I do not use AE springs I use RSD as my first choice but have run Yokomo and HPI.

I am using a gear diff in the front which is not stock but it is an AE diff. When I run a spool I run an AE slipper spool.

When I use a putty front diff I prefer to use Zeppin steel outdrives. These last longer than the stock cups.

In the shocks I prefer RSD bladders. I drill the shock caps. The o-rings vary - I use stock o-rings in one set of shocks and I have Kyosho x-rings in another. RSD work well too.

I use RSD DCJs although you can get away with the stock drive shafts if you use a gear diff.

Other than that some aluminum screws but it is basically a stock kit.
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