20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
05-12-2013, 01:04 PM
#9166
Has anyone had an issue with the chassis tweaked?
I have mine setup so it will coast (off throttle) strait, but as soon as I get on the throttle it goes to the right.
With my weight bias it perfect from left to right, I went to setup my ride height and I also noticed the Left front shock and the Right rear shock needed more spring preload to give me equal ride height. So that leads me to believe something isn't aligning up.
I've checked shock length and they are even as well.
Has there been any parts that aren't machined incorrectly out of anyone's kit?
The first pictures is showing I used two screws to attach the top plate, and the second picture shows how the holes are out of alignment for all four holes.
I have mine setup so it will coast (off throttle) strait, but as soon as I get on the throttle it goes to the right.
With my weight bias it perfect from left to right, I went to setup my ride height and I also noticed the Left front shock and the Right rear shock needed more spring preload to give me equal ride height. So that leads me to believe something isn't aligning up.
I've checked shock length and they are even as well.
Has there been any parts that aren't machined incorrectly out of anyone's kit?
The first pictures is showing I used two screws to attach the top plate, and the second picture shows how the holes are out of alignment for all four holes.
05-12-2013, 01:16 PM
#9167
Try moving bottom screws an area at a time to see what made your tweak. ie. servo mounts, motor mount. Anything can cause it. Is your chassis perfectly flat?
You should also float your servo and lipo, because under throttle, the chassis will flex and you need to allow for that natural flex.
You should also float your servo and lipo, because under throttle, the chassis will flex and you need to allow for that natural flex.
05-12-2013, 01:28 PM
#9168
Try moving bottom screws an area at a time to see what made your tweak. ie. servo mounts, motor mount. Anything can cause it. Is your chassis perfectly flat?
You should also float your servo and lipo, because under throttle, the chassis will flex and you need to allow for that natural flex.
You should also float your servo and lipo, because under throttle, the chassis will flex and you need to allow for that natural flex.
05-12-2013, 02:15 PM
#9169
For the money, the following are hard to beat:
--- Turnigy 1251TG low profile servo: Costs $27 new plus shipping. Digital, coreless, metal gear, dual ball bearing and fast. Works as well as my similar (but five times more expensive) Futaba servos.
---HobbyWing Justock ESC: Costs $52 new plus shipping. Work perfectly, are adjustable. Both ROAR and USVTA legal. Are as fast as any other ESC on the market (e.g. the Tekins I used to run). The only reason to consider "more" ESC than a Justock is if one wanted to run a very low turn Mod motor or run boost.
Bill S.
--- Turnigy 1251TG low profile servo: Costs $27 new plus shipping. Digital, coreless, metal gear, dual ball bearing and fast. Works as well as my similar (but five times more expensive) Futaba servos.
---HobbyWing Justock ESC: Costs $52 new plus shipping. Work perfectly, are adjustable. Both ROAR and USVTA legal. Are as fast as any other ESC on the market (e.g. the Tekins I used to run). The only reason to consider "more" ESC than a Justock is if one wanted to run a very low turn Mod motor or run boost.
Bill S.
05-12-2013, 02:42 PM
#9170
The front and rear tape should be half the width of the Lipo, and the center strip to be the full width to support the Lipo and the flexing is at the front and back of the Lipo.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11071986-post29.html
The two servo mounts will prevent the area underneath the servo from flexing naturally as well. Either get a floating servo mount or remove one of the mounts and use black servo tape under the servo so it will allow the chassis below it to flex.
05-12-2013, 02:49 PM
#9171
Has anyone had an issue with the chassis tweaked?
I have mine setup so it will coast (off throttle) strait, but as soon as I get on the throttle it goes to the right.
With my weight bias it perfect from left to right, I went to setup my ride height and I also noticed the Left front shock and the Right rear shock needed more spring preload to give me equal ride height. So that leads me to believe something isn't aligning up.
I've checked shock length and they are even as well.
Has there been any parts that aren't machined incorrectly out of anyone's kit?
The first pictures is showing I used two screws to attach the top plate, and the second picture shows how the holes are out of alignment for all four holes.
I have mine setup so it will coast (off throttle) strait, but as soon as I get on the throttle it goes to the right.
With my weight bias it perfect from left to right, I went to setup my ride height and I also noticed the Left front shock and the Right rear shock needed more spring preload to give me equal ride height. So that leads me to believe something isn't aligning up.
I've checked shock length and they are even as well.
Has there been any parts that aren't machined incorrectly out of anyone's kit?
The first pictures is showing I used two screws to attach the top plate, and the second picture shows how the holes are out of alignment for all four holes.
Loosen up all of the screws for the bulk heads give the chassis a few twists with a bit of force but not a super man twist and tighten the bulkhead screws up in a criss cross patten.
Then to remove tweak take your wheels off and put the car chassis flat on your setup board and loosen up all of your top deck screws and have somebody push down on the shock towers while you tighten your top deck screws in a criss cross pattern. Ive had my 6.1 tweak many times and stray under throttle and this has cured it every time.
05-12-2013, 04:27 PM
#9172
Does anyone run a HobbyWing just stock?
05-12-2013, 05:14 PM
#9173
I race a HW just stock in my 17.5 car. I like it a lot it is smooth easy to program. I recomend it all the time many racers but they are reluctant too use it because it modest price they think it can't be that good of esc compared to the more sexy models out there. Our LHS started selling them at my insistance but they haven't sold that many yet. I have a LRP SXX V2 I would rather run the JUSTSTOCK esc.
05-12-2013, 05:28 PM
#9174
I race a HW just stock in my 17.5 car. I like it a lot it is smooth easy to program. I recomend it all the time many racers but they are reluctant too use it because it modest price they think it can't be that good of esc compared to the more sexy models out there. Our LHS started selling them at my insistance but they haven't sold that many yet. I have a LRP SXX V2 I would rather run the JUSTSTOCK esc.
05-12-2013, 05:29 PM
#9175
I race a HW just stock in my 17.5 car. I like it a lot it is smooth easy to program. I recomend it all the time many racers but they are reluctant too use it because it modest price they think it can't be that good of esc compared to the more sexy models out there. Our LHS started selling them at my insistance but they haven't sold that many yet. I have a LRP SXX V2 I would rather run the JUSTSTOCK esc.
05-13-2013, 09:15 AM
#9180
Yeah I ordered the bladders and o-rings from them I just didn't know if I should run the stock pistons or run a 3 hole thanks ill have to order them. How do the pistons feel? Also this question is for Cristian Tabush at Reflex or if anybody knows where I can get there RSD suspension lock blocks. I see that there in the tuning kit but not sold separately and what's the advantage vs stock suspension blocks. Thanks.