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Old 04-01-2013, 08:32 PM   #9046
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Where ya been man!

All the cool kids are using them these days...

Seriously, just PM me and I can provide you with the info.
The one in the picture is the older V1 version. I now make the new and improved V2 model. (as seen a few pages back)
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Will these servo mounts work for the TC6.1 as well?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:34 AM   #9047
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anyone know what i should gear my tc6.1 for 17.5? i have a mach 2.

looking for gearing tips for 64p and 48p.

thanks.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:35 AM   #9048
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YoDog'
Will these servo mounts work for the TC6.1 as well?
yes I have one of the v2 mounts. On. my T6.1
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:42 AM   #9049
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YoDog'
Will these servo mounts work for the TC6.1 as well?
The mount is a direct fit for all TC6 based chassis that have the ballast weight mounting holes down the center line of the chassis. All Associated and Reflex chassis have these mounting holes.

There is NO drilling needed.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:47 PM   #9050
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sorry if this has already been noted and/or fix to what I see is a design flaw. Forgive me as I'm new to the TC6, but the main problem I see is the risk for the motor to easily lose its mesh setting during heavy track rubbing or hitting a flapper too hard in a chicane. I'm going to experiment with some "Amazing Goop" glue and fill the gap between the motor screw and the forward area of the motor mount. The glue is rated to withstand temperatures up to 150 so I may have to install a fan to keep temps within range. Main reason why I want to use Amazing Goop is that it will be easy to remove when the time comes to change my gear ratio.

If someone has a better idea to overcome this design flaw, please share, thanks!



Most cars I've raced in the past have the adjustment slots at an angle to minimize losing the mesh setting, this motor mount is in a perfect parallel line with the chassis, oops!
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:16 PM   #9051
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
sorry if this has already been noted and/or fix to what I see is a design flaw. Forgive me as I'm new to the TC6, but the main problem I see is the risk for the motor to easily lose its mesh setting during heavy track rubbing or hitting a flapper too hard in a chicane. I'm going to experiment with some "Amazing Goop" glue and fill the gap between the motor screw and the forward area of the motor mount. The glue is rated to withstand temperatures up to 150 so I may have to install a fan to keep temps within range. Main reason why I want to use Amazing Goop is that it will be easy to remove when the time comes to change my gear ratio.

If someone has a better idea to overcome this design flaw, please share, thanks!



Most cars I've raced in the past have the adjustment slots at an angle to minimize losing the mesh setting, this motor mount is in a perfect parallel line with the chassis, oops!

Well, you can only consider this a design flaw if the majority of users are having the same problem. If it's an isolated case, it is either a manufacturing defect or user error. Sure, having the slot angled may be a better approach but that doesn't make the current design a "flaw" By any means.There may be reasons for associated's approach on this. Either way, I am working on a 1 piece motor mount/spur mount that will change this design for the better I think.
Lets also consider that hitting other objects on the track is not considered "normal" operating conditions.
I for one, have never had my motor move when properly tightened on either of my TC6's and I'm only using 2 screws.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:17 PM   #9052
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I have wacked many things with mine.... The motor nevered moved, other things have ( servotape on esc and reciever let go.) but never the motor. If its moving i think it isn't tight enough.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:10 PM   #9053
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The motor mount washers from the tc5r part # ASC9630 with blue tamiya gel threadlock will do the trick. There ballstud washers but when you tighten the motor screws hard they basically crush and that baby wont budge.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:47 PM   #9054
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Bill, I've not had any problems with either of my TC6s. That goop will also make it challenging to change pinions. I'd suggest leaving it be, personally.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:02 PM   #9055
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
The mount is a direct fit for all TC6 based chassis that have the ballast weight mounting holes down the center line of the chassis. All Associated and Reflex chassis have these mounting holes.

There is NO drilling needed.
Thanks for the response Dog. Can you post up your website or send me a PM where I can buy one.
Thanks
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:58 AM   #9056
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Bill, I've not had any problems with either of my TC6s. That goop will also make it challenging to change pinions. I'd suggest leaving it be, personally.
I've seen at least 3 local drivers have problems losing their mesh after hard hits on the track and I never got a really close look into the root of the problem until now. If the glue fails to hold up to the heat, and I experience the same issue as I've seen other drivers suffer from, then I plan to use my plastic welder which should theoretically form a reusable shim to fill the void. perhaps I could make several shims for varying mesh combinations

I've worked with Amazing Goop before and it peels away from aluminum with semi-medium effort which seems to be the appropriate product for this application. I'm not so sure a plastic shim will stay in place without a captured backing.

Hopefully the cases I've seen on the track were all isolated and had nothing to do with the design of the car but merely loose screws because the drivers didn't use any thread lock. I didn't ask each driver if they had used any thread lock or not.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:17 AM   #9057
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That's interesting, Bill. But, FWIW, that's basically the same motor mounting method that's been used on most cars since I started racing in the '80s. I do know some folks had issues with the Axial motors shifting, but that's more of an issue with the motor can itself. I still don't think it's anything to worry about, but I understand your reasoning...
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:39 AM   #9058
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I've seen at least 3 local drivers have problems losing their mesh after hard hits on the track and I never got a really close look into the root of the problem until now. If the glue fails to hold up to the heat, and I experience the same issue as I've seen other drivers suffer from, then I plan to use my plastic welder which should theoretically form a reusable shim to fill the void. perhaps I could make several shims for varying mesh combinations

I've worked with Amazing Goop before and it peels away from aluminum with semi-medium effort which seems to be the appropriate product for this application. I'm not so sure a plastic shim will stay in place without a captured backing.

Hopefully the cases I've seen on the track were all isolated and had nothing to do with the design of the car but merely loose screws because the drivers didn't use any thread lock. I didn't ask each driver if they had used any thread lock or not.
There is nothing wrong with the car it's just bad bit or just user ,I have hit iteams with my tc6.1 and all different speeds even over 50mph an only brake I have ever had is one c hub
And that's when I first got it over 1 and half ago
Is a brillant solid car
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:49 AM   #9059
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It was pointed out to me via PM that the problem with the design is only for folks using brushed motors (in a spec class) which only has 2 threaded holes directly opposite from each other on the can, then if you don't have an open slotted spur, it's nearly impossible to tighten the screw closest to the rear diff because the screw is blocked by a solid plastic spur (I think this is what Tommy was trying to explain earlier). Those drivers were at the mercy of only one properly tightened screw, unless they painfully guessed several screw settings while removing the spur and tightening the screw behind with each successive guess.

Why not have a motor mount that fully encloses a circle around the shaft of the motor and have angled slots above and below such that there is no interference from the spur? Or at least raise the front hole so that it's directly opposite from the bottom hole. Those with brushless motors can get away with the current design because there are plenty of extra pre drilled holes in most brands of brushless motors.

Another argument can be made that brushed motors are going to soon be extinct anyway so why bother making a product backward compatible? Or simply buy a spur with super size holes to get to that rear screw.... I digress.

I'm just happy to learn I shouldn't expect any problems since I'm running a brushless motor, thanks everyone
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:57 AM   #9060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
It was pointed out to me via PM that the problem with the design is only for folks using brushed motors (in a spec class) which only has 2 threaded holes directly opposite from each other on the can, then if you don't have an open slotted spur, it's nearly impossible to tighten the screw closest to the rear diff because the screw is blocked by a solid plastic spur (I think this is what Tommy was trying to explain earlier). Those drivers were at the mercy of only one properly tightened screw, unless they painfully guessed several screw settings while removing the spur and tightening the screw behind with each successive guess.

Why not have a motor mount that fully encloses a circle around the shaft of the motor and have angled slots above and below such that there is no interference from the spur? Or at least raise the front hole so that it's directly opposite from the bottom hole. Those with brushless motors can get away with the current design because there are plenty of extra pre drilled holes in most brands of brushless motors.

Another argument can be made that brushed motors are going to soon be extinct anyway so why bother making a product backward compatible? Or simply buy a spur with super size holes to get to that rear screw.... I digress.

I'm just happy to learn I shouldn't expect any problems since I'm running a brushless motor, thanks everyone
Maybe we can develop a mount that can utilize all the holes like we did a few years ago for the RC8e. The mount can use two and up to six mounting screws with precision spur/pinion meshing. Would that work?

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