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Old 03-19-2013, 02:21 PM   #9001
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Yep, that was my concern. So are y'all saying to put a couple strips of tape under the front and rear of the battery to ever so slightly elevate it off the chassis? Or do orientate the tape another way?
No front and back of the battery are fine. You can use tape or thin foam. Both will acheive the same result.
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:05 PM   #9002
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Where can you get that vertical servo holder?
Where ya been man!

All the cool kids are using them these days...

Seriously, just PM me and I can provide you with the info.
The one in the picture is the older V1 version. I now make the new and improved V2 model. (as seen a few pages back)
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:07 PM   #9003
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If we are trying to minimize or eliminate chassis flex why doesnt someone make a "Proper" carbon fiber chassis using uni-directional tape? Much stiffer and can be oriented to provid "required" flex? It's not quite as sexy a material but really the proper one for the job.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #9004
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If we are trying to minimize or eliminate chassis flex why doesnt someone make a "Proper" carbon fiber chassis using uni-directional tape? Much stiffer and can be oriented to provid "required" flex? It's not quite as sexy a material but really the proper one for the job.
Bill, the manufacturers are not trying to eliminate flex. they want to control it. Actually a somewhat flexible chassis creates a wider tuning window because it relies less on suspension dynamics. Now that many tuners have found that out, the next step is to make the flex controlled and repeatable. If the chassis is too flexible, it would be prone to tweaking easily because there is not enough rigidity to overcome any bias that might be introduced either through component location or that dreaded impact with other objects. A very rigid chassis is actually most desired but 98% of us mortals would have a hard time finding a perfect setup and a perfect setup would be required to make the car work at it's best. These cars are just too small and lack the precision to be very rigid and still drivable from day to day and place to place.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:01 PM   #9005
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Touring cars need to flex under running conditions or else the cars will be not drivable. Although carbon fiber is relatively stiff, it will bend and twist under load.

A servo bolted to it at both ends will prevent it from flexing naturally. Both us and YoDog are offering racers a choice of floating servo mounts that will allow the chassis to flex naturally. What it does not do is change the control to the steering because it only changes the orientation of servo. YoDog's mount will give you more space on the chassis if you use a low profile servo. Ours just maintains the same orientation, but both will float the servo and allow the left side of the front chassis to flex.

The other thing that can really improve flexing, is float your Lipo! That is the heaviest component you are strapping to the chassis. Correct location of the tape under the Lipo is important so it flex.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...erLiPoBattery/

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Old 03-20-2013, 06:43 AM   #9006
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Thanks very much, Rick, Ron, and all the others who've chimed in on this topic. I really appreciate the helpful advice and explanations!
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:58 AM   #9007
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Can you tell me how you ballasted your VTA up to 1550? I'm struggling with mine.
My apologies for all the pics, but it's easier than trying to explain where I put all the weight. I think I added up over 120g of weight that I had to add to my TC6 and it runs a heavily Shoe-Goo'd body, fullsize servo, heatsink, and front/rear bars. With a 250g EAM battery, I tip the scales at 1552g. I elected to use the Associated weights. Clean, compact, no adhesive mess....but unfortunately expensive.

Right side. 20g in front of the forward-shifted battery, 2x10g under the belt (tight clearance), and 2x7g lead weights near the bellcrank.


Right sider (rear). 20g and 2x10g stacked behind the battery.


Left side (front). 1x10g weight because this corner is heavy enough.


Left/Rear. 20g behind the motor and 2x7g lead weights at the very tail end.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:57 PM   #9008
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
Bill, the manufacturers are not trying to eliminate flex. they want to control it. Actually a somewhat flexible chassis creates a wider tuning window because it relies less on suspension dynamics. Now that many tuners have found that out, the next step is to make the flex controlled and repeatable. If the chassis is too flexible, it would be prone to tweaking easily because there is not enough rigidity to overcome any bias that might be introduced either through component location or that dreaded impact with other objects. A very rigid chassis is actually most desired but 98% of us mortals would have a hard time finding a perfect setup and a perfect setup would be required to make the car work at it's best. These cars are just too small and lack the precision to be very rigid and still drivable from day to day and place to place.
As someone who has spent 30+ years sending composite into space I completely understand all those dynamics. I just wish if the manufacturers were going to give us "graphite" chassis they at least used a more atractive weave.

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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
My apologies for all the pics, but it's easier than trying to explain where I put all the weight. I think I added up over 120g of weight that I had to add to my TC6 and it runs a heavily Shoe-Goo'd body, fullsize servo, heatsink, and front/rear bars. With a 250g EAM battery, I tip the scales at 1552g. I elected to use the Associated weights. Clean, compact, no adhesive mess....but unfortunately expensive.

Right side. 20g in front of the forward-shifted battery, 2x10g under the belt (tight clearance), and 2x7g lead weights near the bellcrank.


Right sider (rear). 20g and 2x10g stacked behind the battery.


Left side (front). 1x10g weight because this corner is heavy enough.


Left/Rear. 20g behind the motor and 2x7g lead weights at the very tail end.
Thanks, Were ddi you get 7g weights? I need to add at least 130g
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:06 PM   #9009
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Thanks, Were ddi you get 7g weights? I need to add at least 130g
Those were painted lead weights a friend gave me. He's a mechanic at a Mercedes dealership and has access to plenty of them.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:23 AM   #9010
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Morning all,
I have just run out of stock for the V2 servo mounts. Thanks a bunch!
The next batch is on it's way. They should be ready by the middle of next week. The servo saver cams are moving quickly as is, without the anodizing but for those of you who want them "BLUE", they are still coming. I will probably have to put them in with the next batch of servo mount blocks.
Just a heads up... I will be on the road from 4/11 to 5/15 so I won't be able to make more parts till I get back. If things change, I'll be sure to let everyone know right here on this forum. So please get you orders in before I head to Denver for the Mile High Carpet race in April.

Thanks again to all who have been supporting me on this project. Some new parts will be coming soon and a website too!
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:44 AM   #9011
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I made my order ........
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:52 PM   #9012
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I made my order ........
Yes... you did sir!
Thank you!
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:06 PM   #9013
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Something that was brought up recently... you can use the same stock turnbuckle to link the servo to the steering assembly if you replace the ball cup at the servo horn with one of the Associated long ball ends part# 7230. this will give you just the right amount of extra length to compensate for the new servo orientation.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:53 PM   #9014
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Hey guys, rookie question for ya. On the rear hubs, I am putting the "1" hubs in. The number goes to the outside on both the right and left, also both front and rear of the hub? Sorry, its late.

Last edited by Rockin G; 03-22-2013 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:19 AM   #9015
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Hey guys, rookie question for ya. On the rear hubs, I am putting the "1" hubs in. The number goes to the outside on both the right and left, also both front and rear of the hub? Sorry, its late.
Okay so use this as an example. The manual says "Use the supplied
symmetric inserts to select rear hub toe angle. The number should be on the
outside of the hub for left and right hubs as shown."
It doesnt say, for the front put outside, for the rear put inside, so I must assume that it is number outside on both front and rear on each hub....This picture from the manual of course shows the 0* inserts, but if I were to put the 1* inserts....which my old eyes are having troubles seeing a 1 degree shift of the hole location...would the number be on the outside on both front and rear on the same hub? It seems to me that it would then be that the hole is slightly shifted in the same direction, thus making it a 0 again. Am I looking at this wrong?
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