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Old 02-24-2013, 04:32 PM   #8836
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Thought I'd report back with my result's from two pages back re excess front grip/loose neutral issues

I had returned the setup back to stock ie; camber, springs etc which helped a bit.
At next the race day, another drivers suggested more droop f& r and more ride height. Went to 4mm f and 5mm r droop and raised it to 6mm ride height.
This has fixed the loose neutral power issue completely

Thanks for everyones suggestions!

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I have recently done the Exotek Duel Bellcrank conversion. I now have a huge amount of front end grip.

Unfortunately the car is now excessively Loose Neutral Power, will do a 180 no problem. I have tried softening the rear, stiffening the front (including swaybars), rasing and lowering droop on both ends, lighter oil in the rear gear diff (spool front), lowering roll centre rear – raising the front, rasing the front high and lowering the rear.

Im using sweep 32s on med grip outdoor asphalt
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:57 PM   #8837
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Originally Posted by RaceAce701 View Post
ok a few questions for everyone

rear diff oil wt
light vs heavy and the affects on handeling




i tried several different setup approaches and am just looking for a few things to try to more or less remove front traction (i had to cut my dualrate in half just to jeep the car on the track)
For me 40wt works well indoor and out. When traction is high the rear end doesn't rotate well so going with a heavier oil should loosen the rear up a bit.

Widening the front end with spacers between the bulkhead and arm mounts helps out. For quick fix glue your front sidewalls 3/4 up and try less sauce in the front.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:16 PM   #8838
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I just have to vent, i was leading the amain tonight when one bump with some traffic ended up breaking my front a-arm. I love how my car drives but this is the third week in a row a front end part has broken and cost me my main event finish. I'm a pretty clean driver and don't make too much contact out there. I'd hate to say it but it makes me feel like selling and trying someing else.. Too bad, the car is fast as hell.
Some racers around here make a 1/8th" thick Kydex front bumper wide enough to help protect the front suspension parts. It comes in 8" x 12" sheets for about $20. It helps lots. I race a TC6.1W and the new Serpent411 ERYX. The Serpent seems way more crash resistant.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:41 PM   #8839
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The other thing I wanted to tell u was to try taking the sway bars off.

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in the main i ran 4wt all around losi 56 pistons rsd yellow in front and teal in rear and that was the best the car was all day

i did try ae silver front ae green rear and that car was good also but still tippy mid to late corner


i started with yokomo blue front and pink rear and it was good when bite was los but as soon as it came up it was impossable to exit the corner without any speed at all

i played with rear track with as perr cuffs advice and wider was better i went from narrow arm mouts and 1mm hex shim (what cuffs ran ) to no hex spacer and plus 1.5 each side on the arm mounts and was a bit better

i ran 3b roll center all around i was thing about trying ob in the front
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:16 PM   #8840
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the guy i borrowd the spring off of mentioned that as well that will be one of the first things to try next time it gets tippy

i tried so many things yesterday im still trying to sort out what worked and wat didnt the one thing that i know seemed to help was laying down the shocks 1 hole front and rear made a noticable difference i just wish i tried it earlier in the day
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:08 AM   #8841
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Originally Posted by RaceAce701 View Post
in the main i ran 4wt all around losi 56 pistons rsd yellow in front and teal in rear and that was the best the car was all day

i did try ae silver front ae green rear and that car was good also but still tippy mid to late corner


i started with yokomo blue front and pink rear and it was good when bite was los but as soon as it came up it was impossable to exit the corner without any speed at all

i played with rear track with as perr cuffs advice and wider was better i went from narrow arm mouts and 1mm hex shim (what cuffs ran ) to no hex spacer and plus 1.5 each side on the arm mounts and was a bit better

i ran 3b roll center all around i was thing about trying ob in the front
Not sure what the Losi 56 pistons have as far as hole diameter. I'm using the TC6 #2 pistons up front and #3 in n the rear. Try 50wt. oil up front with 15.5 lb. springs. The heavier oil should tone the front end down.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:02 AM   #8842
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Hey folks,

I bought my TC6 used and it had some double cardan joint front axles already installed. Well, I broke one this past weekend. The problem is I'm not sure what kind they are. I seem to recall being told they were made by Hot Bodies, but I'm not positive. I'm trying to get in touch with the original owner of the car to confirm, but need to get parts ordered ASAP in order to make the race this coming weekend.

I realize it's a shot in the dark, but could anyone identify this axle? As far as I can tell, there's no distinguishing lettering or markings on it.


If it can't be identified, I'd appreciate if anyone could suggest some good replacement DCJ axles. This isn't used in a very powerful car (USGT) if that makes any difference?

Thanks!
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:45 AM   #8843
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks,

I bought my TC6 used and it had some double cardan joint front axles already installed. Well, I broke one this past weekend. The problem is I'm not sure what kind they are. I seem to recall being told they were made by Hot Bodies, but I'm not positive. I'm trying to get in touch witnh the original owner of the car to confirm, but need to get parts ordered ASAP in order to make the race this coming weekend.

I realize it's a shot in the dark, but could anyone identify this axle? As far as I can tell, there's no distinguishing lettering or markings on it.


If it can't be identified, I'd appreciate if anyone could suggest some good replacement DCJ axles. This isn't used in a very powerful car (USGT) if that makes any difference?

Thanks!
your dcj doesn't look broken it looks like the pin fell out or broke!
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:10 AM   #8844
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Tommy, I have never had one, but I know Reflex (Cristian) sells DCJ's. Not sure if that is his or not, but he would be able to tell ya.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #8845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks,

I bought my TC6 used and it had some double cardan joint front axles already installed. Well, I broke one this past weekend. The problem is I'm not sure what kind they are. I seem to recall being told they were made by Hot Bodies, but I'm not positive. I'm trying to get in touch with the original owner of the car to confirm, but need to get parts ordered ASAP in order to make the race this coming weekend.

I realize it's a shot in the dark, but could anyone identify this axle? As far as I can tell, there's no distinguishing lettering or markings on it.


If it can't be identified, I'd appreciate if anyone could suggest some good replacement DCJ axles. This isn't used in a very powerful car (USGT) if that makes any difference?

Thanks!

That looks to be the original HB DCJs. They're one and done (non rebuildable)

Look into the TAMIYA DCJs. these have been the most durable DCJ i've used to date.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:51 AM   #8846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks,

I bought my TC6 used and it had some double cardan joint front axles already installed. Well, I broke one this past weekend. The problem is I'm not sure what kind they are. I seem to recall being told they were made by Hot Bodies, but I'm not positive. I'm trying to get in touch with the original owner of the car to confirm, but need to get parts ordered ASAP in order to make the race this coming weekend.

I realize it's a shot in the dark, but could anyone identify this axle? As far as I can tell, there's no distinguishing lettering or markings on it.


If it can't be identified, I'd appreciate if anyone could suggest some good replacement DCJ axles. This isn't used in a very powerful car (USGT) if that makes any difference?


Thanks!
Go with the Reflex Racing units. Really good stuff.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:58 AM   #8847
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Thanks, fellas. Yeah, it turns out they're Hot Bodies units: HBS68823

By the way, if you look closely you can see where the coupling ripped allowing the pin to escape.

So I noticed the use of these DCJs required different bearings. They're 1mm wider and the inner diameter is 1mm smaller. Guess I'll need to look into new bearings if I swap them over to something else.

I was looking at the Reflex DCJs as replacements. I just need to determine if I'd be better off with the wider or narrow versions. Any suggestions for a TC6?
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:38 AM   #8848
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Might not be a bad idea to PM Christian from reflex and get him to tell you the pros/cons compared to each other. I haven't used both, so I can't say.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:42 AM   #8849
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Tommy, are you using a TC6, or TC6.1? If you are using a 6.1, then go with the narrow version, if it is a 6, then only the wide axles will work.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:52 AM   #8850
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Tommy, are you using a TC6, or TC6.1? If you are using a 6.1, then go with the narrow version, if it is a 6, then only the wide axles will work.
Thanks!! It's a TC6 so I'll pick up the wide version.
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