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Old 02-07-2013, 09:29 PM   #8716
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Hi all...
The servo mounts are nearly finished and I am taking pre-orders for the first batch. Please PM me if you are interested. Paypal only please.
They are going for $20 each Shipped in the continental US and I am offering a discount for 2 or more ordered at the same time so if your TC6 buddies want in, you can make a group buy.

P.S. The blocks will be Blue Unless you want them Pre-anodized. This mount uses the existing weight mounting holes found on all TC6 based chassis. therefore it should fit all of the commonly used chassis that have the same hole locations.
Rick I remembered that you said it bolted to the reflex chassis existing customers hole? If that's the case bring me a blue one on sat and I'll pay you there.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:12 AM   #8717
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Hi, I want to know how you hold a shorty lipo on your standard TC6.1 Chasis.
Thanks
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:50 AM   #8718
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Hi, I want to know how you hold a shorty lipo on your standard TC6.1 Chasis.
Thanks
I don't know to who you are referring to, but the best ways would be:
1. to drill new holes for the standard battery mounts or
2. to make new battery tape taps from cfk which are redesigned for a shorter battery.

In my 4WS I made new holes for the battery mount and milled a new L-formed cfk part. The servo on the other side prevents the battery from leaving the chassis
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:40 AM   #8719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
the best ways would be:
1. to drill new holes for the standard battery mounts or
2. to make new battery tape taps from cfk which are redesigned for a shorter battery.

In my 4WS I made new holes for the battery mount and milled a new L-formed cfk part. The servo on the other side prevents the battery from leaving the chassis
Thanks, #1 was my solution, but wanted to confirm with other drivers!

I place shorty pack on the back, where do you recommend to place it?
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:35 PM   #8720
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Thanks, #1 was my solution, but wanted to confirm with other drivers!

I place shorty pack on the back, where do you recommend to place it?
I didn't do any tests. I placed everything near the geometrical center as my 4WS is a "unnormal" car.
You maybe already have a favourite battery placement for your TC6. Do you also place other components on the battery side as the shorty is around 100gr. lighter? Just try to get as close to your actual weightbalance as possible (for both sides).
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:30 PM   #8721
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Rick I remembered that you said it bolted to the reflex chassis existing customers hole? If that's the case bring me a blue one on sat and I'll pay you there.
Yes, this does include the RDS6 chassis. The parts are done but won't go to the anodizer till next week. I'm waiting on sending them in with other parts as not to incur additional lot charges which will in turn make the mounts more expensive. No body want's that!
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:38 PM   #8722
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Yes, this does include the RDS6 chassis. The parts are done but won't go to the anodizer till next week. I'm waiting on sending them in with other parts as not to incur additional lot charges which will in turn make the mounts more expensive. No body want's that!
Sounds good
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #8723
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Need some help here, I'm new to the TC6 world, I picked up a 6.1FT roller, and the two M2.5 Button heads the hold the spur gear in place are questionable as to the socket that holds your wrench. The manual calls for M2.5x8 P/N 31521, my LHS says that is a dicontinued number, does anyone have an updated number?

Thanks
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:26 PM   #8724
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Need some help here, I'm new to the TC6 world, I picked up a 6.1FT roller, and the two M2.5 Button heads the hold the spur gear in place are questionable as to the socket that holds your wrench. The manual calls for M2.5x8 P/N 31521, my LHS says that is a dicontinued number, does anyone have an updated number?

Thanks
Forget about those button head screws. you need cap head screws as they use a larger allen key and are far more reliable.

I have them on hand in Stainless steel. If you order one of my servo mounts, I'll be happy to throw some in with the order otherwise it wouldn't be worth the shipping for just a few little screws.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:54 PM   #8725
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Forget about those button head screws. you need cap head screws as they use a larger allen key and are far more reliable.

I have them on hand in Stainless steel. If you order one of my servo mounts, I'll be happy to throw some in with the order otherwise it wouldn't be worth the shipping for just a few little screws.
Never thought about swapping to cap head, tell me why I want your servo mount. Whats it do for me and my Spektrum S6070 servo?
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:54 PM   #8726
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Never thought about swapping to cap head, tell me why I want your servo mount. Whats it do for me and my Spektrum S6070 servo?
Like I stated, the cap head screws use a larger hex so they are less prone to stripping. I started to have problems with the button head screws on the spur gear shaft and could not get them as tight as I would like. They would sometimes back out during a race an cause the gear to be ruined. Thread lock was out of the question as I probably would never get screws out again because of the head stripping issue. Besides, since the shaft is secured by screws on both sides, the thread locker would cause it to turn once one of the screws has be loosened. The cap head allows me to tighten the screws more and gives you the confidence that you can remove it reliably.
Now the servo mount...
It allows the steering servo to be mounted transversely thus giving you more room for your electronics and is mounted only at the centerline of the chassis. Its in essence, floating on the chassis plate. The byproduct of this is that the servo no longer has a biasing influence on the chassis flex at the front of the car. There is the same thought process now with regards to the battery as well but the battery is not actually ridgidly attached to the chassis so it may not have as much influence on chassis flex. I have thin foam strips that I like to use under my battery. You can see them in my posted pics installed on my car. I have yet to verify that they help but they certainly don't hurt. Besides they keep my battery from grinding the track dust into my carbon fiber chassis.
I hope this explains things for you.
Oh yeah, there is a thread for discussing the whole "floating servo" theory in the rctech forum. Take a look.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:24 PM   #8727
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Oh yeah, there is a thread for discussing the whole "floating servo" theory in the rctech forum. Take a look.
Can you post link ?

I'm lazy
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:09 AM   #8728
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l
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Can you post link ?

I'm lazy
Here you go...


"Floating Servo" holder - why would I want it?
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:46 PM   #8729
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i have an old LRP 17.5 and it is time for a new motor. What do you guys recommend for a 17.5 NT motor for our cars.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:14 PM   #8730
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i have an old LRP 17.5 and it is time for a new motor. What do you guys recommend for a 17.5 NT motor for our cars.
I cant speak specifically for the TC6 but my Reedy sonic 17.5 is spectacular in my B4.1 Hobby people is putting them on sale wednesday for $74.99, I'll be getting one for my TC6.1FT and maybe even a spare at that price.
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