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Old 01-02-2013, 06:48 PM   #8506
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Try this one. A lot of steering, very agile and onpower steering, but not loose. You can easily change the balance with the sway bars alone:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...enden20121007/

The TC6.1 loves a diff in front under low-medium grip conditions.
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Best setup I've found for for low traction asphalt is Andrew Abbotts here:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...enats_2011.pdf
Thanks, I'll give one of those a shot.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:17 PM   #8507
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is there a place that I can look threw VTA setups for this chassis? I am interested in seeing what people are trying to get the best feel with this car.

Thanks
Sean
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:33 PM   #8508
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How much lighter are they if any to stock? Any way you could find out?

So 6.1 front c hub
Bearings
Is all I need? Is the outer pin that goes in hex the same? I looked on tq and there are a few. 44mm, 46, or is the yokohomo the only that fits? I looked at the spec r for tamiya 416 46mm shafts and they also take a 5x10
To use the Spec-R BD5 DCJ's in a TC6, the following parts would be needed:
--- Spec-R PN SPR001-BD2 DCJ CV Universal Swing Shaft Version 2 (for Yokomo BD5)
--- Spec-R PN SPR-R1A122 R1 2 x 10 Pin
--- Spec-R PN SPR-R1A110 R1 Aluminum Wheel Hex
--- 4mm shims, such as 3Racing PN 3RAC-SW04 Stainless Steel 4mm Shim Spacer 0.1/0.2/0.3mm
--- Associated PN 31370 TC6.1 Axle Crush Tubes
--- Associated PN 31360 TC6.1 Steering Blocks
--- 2 ea 5x10x4mm ball bearings (e.g. Associated PN 25237)

The above items fit in the TC6.1 Caster Blocks PN 31358 with almost no trimming of the caster blockís inside cutout. The TC5/TC6 Caster Blocks (e.g. PN 31558, 31557, 31556, 31555, 31213, 31212, 31211 or 31210) can also be used but their inside cutout must be substantially enlarged to make room for the double cardan joint, which protrudes further inboard than the TC6ís standard CV joint.

The Spec-R BD5 DCJís weigh 8.7g each. The stock TC6 CVís weigh 9.2g each.

Iím not sure which other manufacturerís DCJís would fit, as the Spec-R ones are the only ones Iíve tried.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:08 AM   #8509
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
is there a place that I can look threw VTA setups for this chassis? I am interested in seeing what people are trying to get the best feel with this car.

Thanks
Sean
Sean your best bet might be asking over the us vta thread. I know your there and a lot of guys running tc6's. Cant wait to get mine done!
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Originally Posted by waswadener View Post
To use the Spec-R BD5 DCJ's in a TC6, the following parts would be needed:
--- Spec-R PN SPR001-BD2 DCJ CV Universal Swing Shaft Version 2 (for Yokomo BD5)
--- Spec-R PN SPR-R1A122 R1 2 x 10 Pin
--- Spec-R PN SPR-R1A110 R1 Aluminum Wheel Hex
--- 4mm shims, such as 3Racing PN 3RAC-SW04 Stainless Steel 4mm Shim Spacer 0.1/0.2/0.3mm
--- Associated PN 31370 TC6.1 Axle Crush Tubes
--- Associated PN 31360 TC6.1 Steering Blocks
--- 2 ea 5x10x4mm ball bearings (e.g. Associated PN 25237)

The above items fit in the TC6.1 Caster Blocks PN 31358 with almost no trimming of the caster blockís inside cutout. The TC5/TC6 Caster Blocks (e.g. PN 31558, 31557, 31556, 31555, 31213, 31212, 31211 or 31210) can also be used but their inside cutout must be substantially enlarged to make room for the double cardan joint, which protrudes further inboard than the TC6ís standard CV joint.

The Spec-R BD5 DCJís weigh 8.7g each. The stock TC6 CVís weigh 9.2g each.

Iím not sure which other manufacturerís DCJís would fit, as the Spec-R ones are the only ones Iíve tried.

Thanks for taking the time to write the info. Ill get on ordering that stuff asap.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:01 AM   #8510
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
is there a place that I can look threw VTA setups for this chassis? I am interested in seeing what people are trying to get the best feel with this car.

Thanks
Sean
Here's a link to the VTA thread. Its hard to find sometimes because they had to restart it due to a page stacking problem:

U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 01-03-2013, 07:58 AM   #8511
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Are the DCJs really worth it? Compared to a couple of other conpanies, I have seen no top drivers using them, nor is it in any set up sheet that I have seen.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:39 AM   #8512
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
Here's a link to the VTA thread. Its hard to find sometimes because they had to restart it due to a page stacking problem:

U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

Rolling on the floor with that pic!!
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:53 AM   #8513
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Thumbs up Spec-r swingshafts for Yokomo BD5

Thanks a million WASWADENER. It took me a while to get some answers on this and you sure steered me in the right direction. Actually, you gave me more information than SPEC-R tech as well as the best way to maintain them. Thanks again for responding and Happy New Year

Last edited by rclife66; 01-03-2013 at 09:54 AM. Reason: mispell
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:06 PM   #8514
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The other popular DCJ shafts for the 6.1 are from Reflex Racing. You'll notice the RDS dual joints are listed on Mike Haynes' setup sheet from the IIC. I'm trying some in mine. They fit great. Also, Cristian at Reflex is great to deal with.

Keven H. listed the 44mm Tamiya dual joints on his Indoor Champs setup, so I guess you've got some other options.

I've been running the standard shafts in mine. As long as you grease them up well, they last a long time and work great.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:08 PM   #8515
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+1 on the DCJ's. I use the Reflex Racing ones. You'd need to dremmel out the C Hub as described above, purchase 5mm Hexes, and 2mm pins to complete the conversion. The DCJ's eliminate axle binding during cornering/steering input, enabling you to drive smoother and faster through turns compared to stock axles.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:20 PM   #8516
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What would be needed to convert a 6 to 6.1 and is that necessary?
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:39 PM   #8517
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Thanks guys for the plug.

Our new V2 Narrow axle DCJs fit even better and require little to no trimming on the TC6.1 caster blocks.

The plus on out DCJs is that our dog bone ball size is the proper size. The Yokomo is a bit undersized, and while they will work, they are going to be more prone to failure and vibration.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:50 PM   #8518
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Originally Posted by steve eaves View Post
What would be needed to convert a 6 to 6.1 and is that necessary?
31356 TC6.1 Front Arms
31357 TC6.1 Rear Arms
31358 TC6.1 Caster Blocks
31359 TC6.1 Rear Hub Carriers
31360 TC6.1 Steering Block
31361 TC6.1 Offset Arm Mounts
31362 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Set
31363 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Tube
31364 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Wire
31365 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Mount
31366 TC6.1 CVA Kit
31367 TC6.1 CVA Rebuild Kit
31368 TC6.1 CVA Bone
31369 TC6.1 CVA Axle
31370 TC6.1 Axle Crush Tube
31344 TC6 Gear Diff.

Is it necassary? No, but nice. Especially the gear diff.
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Last edited by RussF; 01-03-2013 at 04:55 PM. Reason: updated
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:37 PM   #8519
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
31356 TC6.1 Front Arms
31357 TC6.1 Rear Arms
31358 TC6.1 Caster Blocks
31359 TC6.1 Rear Hub Carriers
31360 TC6.1 Steering Block
31361 TC6.1 Offset Arm Mounts
31362 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Set
31363 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Tube
31364 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Wire
31365 TC6.1 Anti-roll Bar Mount
31366 TC6.1 CVA Kit
31367 TC6.1 CVA Rebuild Kit
31368 TC6.1 CVA Bone
31369 TC6.1 CVA Axle
31370 TC6.1 Axle Crush Tube
31344 TC6 Gear Diff.

Is it necassary? No, but nice. Especially the gear diff.
That's more than you need. For example, the Anti-Roll Bar Set comes with the tube, wires, and mounts. Probably similar with the CVA kit.

-Mike
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:53 PM   #8520
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Originally Posted by rangerjkb View Post
+1 on the DCJ's. I use the Reflex Racing ones. You'd need to dremmel out the C Hub as described above, purchase 5mm Hexes, and 2mm pins to complete the conversion. The DCJ's eliminate axle binding during cornering/steering input, enabling you to drive smoother and faster through turns compared to stock axles.
+2! I use the Reflex Racing DCJs and they are awesome. I have the older ones where you need to use the shrink wrap. Still, I have had zero issues with mine and could definitely tell a difference in the way my car makes sharp turns. Pick your car up with the stock axles. Give it full throttle and turn the wheels to the stops in either direction. Vibrates like crazy! Look at those wheels bouncing! Think about what's happening to your car when you're trying to make a sharp turn and those wheels are vibrating like crazy. Put the Reflex Racing DCJs on there and it's smooth as butter! The new DCJs look even better! As for grinding out the C hubs, it was no big deal. They're already wide enough. You just need to buzz the corners off with a Dremel or file. It was a piece of cake. One of the best upgrades I have made to my car.
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