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Old 12-25-2012, 10:52 PM   #8431
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Originally Posted by Glenn77 View Post
This is a very long thread... To save me going through all of the 500+ pages Can anyone point me to a recommended spare parts list for this car for racing?

Thanks.
I have never broken one of those C-hubs even though I hear they break. I have some spares. The only thing I have broken, is one of the shock bushings! Other than that, this thing seems to be pretty tough! I've done some cartwheeling with mine on several occasions without an issue. I broke the shock bushing by over tightening the bolt that holds the top of the shock on.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:09 AM   #8432
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Chad just do the electrical tape adjustment first -under the battery. It's cheap and it works great. If you don't like it the cut away. It's back aways on this thread.
I am not familiar with the electrical tape trick.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:10 AM   #8433
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If your having issues with the c-hubs use the ones for the tc 5, that will fix your issue. The ones for the 6.1 are week because of air bubbles in the manufacturing of them AE has tried to fix the issue but I just use tc5 hubs
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #8434
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I am not familiar with the electrical tape trick.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...erLiPoBattery/
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:05 PM   #8435
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Thank you. What a great tip, I would have never thought to do something like that.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:43 PM   #8436
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Which foam tires are you guys running on carpet ? (manufacturer) and which compounds and width ??

Our carpet track is not high bite.

Thanks
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:35 PM   #8437
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Yes.



See below.



The droop screws shouldn't be touching at ride height, but droop is very important.

It's important to get the static weight distribution of the car balanced left to right. I use corner scales for this, but I think the TC6.1 has holes in the center of the shock towers that you can put a string / pin / small hex wrench into. Lift up both ends, and see if it sags to one side. It doesn't necessarily have to be absolutely perfect, but it needs to be close.

Before you put the springs on, compare each pair in terms of length. Sometimes one spring is longer than the other. You'll have to compensate for that in the preload adjustment. You might want to mark the long one with a sharpie if they're way off.

Next, set the ride height. Back off the droop screws to make sure they aren't limited your ride height.

Optional: lift up the chassis to see how far it lifts before the tires come off the board. Adjust the droop screws to get it in the ballpark. Probably 1.5-2mm up travel in front and 2-3mm in the rear. You'll want more on asphalt then carpet, probably.

Next, get the droop spot on with the droop gauge. I mean absolutely perfect left to right.

Finally, use a hex driver under the rear of the chassis in the balance hole and lift the chassis slowly. Verify that both rear wheels lift off the board at the same time. If one wheel lifts first, that means you either got the left/right balance way off, or your front end is tweaked. Tighten the diagonally-opposite spring, and loosen the spring on the same side of the other end of the car. When both wheels lift at the same time, flip the car around and repeat while lifting the front end.

You can also place the car hanging off your setup board, with the edge of the setup board going across the center of your chassis. Push down on the end that's hanging off so the end that's over the board isn't touching. Slowly lift the end that's hanging off the board. Both wheels on the other end should touch down at the same time. If they don't, you screwed up the droop. Watch how the suspension compresses on the other end as you continue to add more weight, especially as the chassis lifts off the edge of the board. You'll be able to see one side compress faster than the other if the end over the board is tweaked. Tighten the spring that sinks faster, and loosen the other, and try again. When it looks good, flip the car around and repeat with the other end. This technique does NOT work well if you have battery tape under the chassis. However, the stock TC6.1 battery mounts don't have that problem.

After all that, re-check the ride height to make sure you didn't mess it up with the spring adjustments. Then re-do all the checks to make sure things still look good.

If you have more droop in general, the car will be less sensitive to tweak. But as you run less and less droop, the car will be much more sensitive to tweak.

-Mike
Thanks -- this is a FANTASTIC post !!
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:12 PM   #8438
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Finished the prototype servo mount for a "no drill" direct fit on the TC6, TC6.1 and I think the TC6.1WC. It uses the existing weight mounting holes in the middle of the chassis.
I was previously using the Tamiya mount from CSO but this one is far more secure and doesn't require any drilling of the chassis. You may also notice that I provided a mounting point for the factory antenna mount as well which will free up some precious area on the chassis. There is plenty of room for even a standard sized servo. There should be no issues with the Savox fitment either.

Tell me what you think and if there is enough interest, I will produce it.
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Team Associated TC6 Thread-imag0072-comp.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-imag0076-comp.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-imag0080-comp.jpg  
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:25 PM   #8439
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Nice work with the servo mount, I would be interested in one.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:27 PM   #8440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Losiho View Post
I also have these thin foam tape strips that I like to use.
I will include a set with every servo mount.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:31 PM   #8441
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Here is a rendering of the Servo mount assembly.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:07 PM   #8442
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That servo mount is sweet! I'd order one if I hadn't already ordered a new Evo chassis from Reflex Racing. The stock servo layout is about the only thing I don't really like about my 6.1. How do you connect to the bell crank? How much would you charge to make one for me anyways?
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:32 PM   #8443
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief View Post
That servo mount is sweet! I'd order one if I hadn't already ordered a new Evo chassis from Reflex Racing. The stock servo layout is about the only thing I don't really like about my 6.1. How do you connect to the bell crank? How much would you charge to make one for me anyways?
Thanks, the way we have been connecting to the stock servo saver is to replace the Ackerman adjustment screw with a ball end and then attach.
I haven't come up with a price yet. It will depend on how many I get orders for. You could expect to be comparable to the other 3 piece mounts that are available for other cars like the Xray.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:37 PM   #8444
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Nice servo mount! Definitely interested.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:17 PM   #8445
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very nice thanks for sharing
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