Team Associated TC6 Thread
#8326
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Your setup is a lot different than what most of us would run. My suggested changed is red above. It seems like the rear of your car is extremely soft, which will let the car dump over in corners and become very loose. The front of the car is extremely stiff, which is probably an adjustment for the rear, but it just makes the front end wash out probably. Those changes should get you more in the ballpark of how I know the car likes a setup on carpet.
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
#8327
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I'll give it a shot,
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
You might try again to put the car back to the manual setup and start over. Make sure all the shims and belt cams are in the right place. Then start to make very small changes.
The only changes Ive made is to camber(for traction) and motor timming.
The car will work for you, just take a little time to make small changes to it to get it like you want.
ps..I run the "boxstock" setup, cause I like a very neutral feeling car, alot of the other AE drivers setups dont work for me. Doent mean they wont work for you.
Hope you get it setup like you like...
#8328
Your setup is a lot different than what most of us would run. My suggested changed is red above. It seems like the rear of your car is extremely soft, which will let the car dump over in corners and become very loose. The front of the car is extremely stiff, which is probably an adjustment for the rear, but it just makes the front end wash out probably. Those changes should get you more in the ballpark of how I know the car likes a setup on carpet.
+1 to the above (and geeunits setup tips)
i run/ran in VTA (hard hard tyres) on a low-med grip asphalt outdoor cct. as the car has fairly close to 50/50 weight i ended up running a softer setup up front.
Front -AE greens front/35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons (spool)
Rear -AE silver /35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons rear (Gear diff)
soo predictable and has a huge amount more of turn in to when i ran harder springs in the front.
#8329
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
+1 to the above (and geeunits setup tips)
i run/ran in VTA (hard hard tyres) on a low-med grip asphalt outdoor cct. as the car has fairly close to 50/50 weight i ended up running a softer setup up front.
Front -AE greens front/35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons (spool)
Rear -AE silver /35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons rear (Gear diff)
soo predictable and has a huge amount more of turn in to when i ran harder springs in the front.
i run/ran in VTA (hard hard tyres) on a low-med grip asphalt outdoor cct. as the car has fairly close to 50/50 weight i ended up running a softer setup up front.
Front -AE greens front/35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons (spool)
Rear -AE silver /35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons rear (Gear diff)
soo predictable and has a huge amount more of turn in to when i ran harder springs in the front.
Spur and pinion idea's?
#8330
I'll give it a shot,
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
#8331
#8333
No worries mate. The pinion/spur will really depend on the track, best bet is to see what the guys are running at your's
For example, we have quite a large track/long straight (3 netball courts) so I ran a fdr of 3.00, 42/63
#8334
Ours is a direct fit and have been available for some time now. Unless you want something different.
#8335
For those considering the new lightweight axle shaft dont waste your money, they are crap, blades arent even straight with the pin and dont even fit the ae axles as stated. They dont fit because they dont have the flat cap spot at the end like the ae ones.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3290
axles stuck
blades fit crooked
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3290
axles stuck
blades fit crooked
#8336
Tech Adept
#8337
With the grid rc servo mount, the servo is in the standard position (front/back):
http://www.redrc.net/2012/08/team-gr...n-servo-mount/
http://www.redrc.net/2012/08/team-gr...n-servo-mount/
#8338
Sideways mounting the servo give more space only if you run a low profile servo.
All the settings and tuning you do to the TC6 is of no benefit if the chassis won't respond to it. The two heaviest components, servo and battery needs to float.
We already showed racers how to float the Lipo battery. http://www.rctech.net/forum/11071986-post29.html
The floating servo mount we made is a direct mount and if you do these two things to the servo and battery, you will notice big handling performance. Also lock the servo saver further.
We have talked to several racers and they did tell us drilling holes, and then have to countersink them to use a sideways mount (by-passes stock servo saver and requires a servo saver on servo) and in the end not gain more performance over the floating stock orientation would not be the way to go.
Thus we came out with our mount. It is low cost and takes minutes to install. The battery mod also takes minutes and is free.
Last edited by Team Grid RC; 12-15-2012 at 08:59 AM.
#8339
Tech Regular
After testing both mounting positions on the TC6 we have found no difference in performance. Both methods float the servo, connect to the steering bellcrank at 90 degrees. The WC kit still has the stock servo mounts.
Sideways mounting the servo give more space only if you run a low profile servo.
All the settings and tuning you do to the TC6 is of no benefit if the chassis won't respond to it. The two heaviest components, servo and battery needs to float.
We already showed racers how to float the Lipo battery. http://www.rctech.net/forum/11071986-post29.html
The floating servo mount we made is a direct mount and if you do these two things to the servo and battery, you will notice big handling performance. Also lock the servo saver further.
We have talked to several racers and they did tell us drilling holes, and then have to countersink them to use a sideways mount (by-passes stock servo saver and requires a servo saver on servo) and in the end not gain more performance over the floating stock orientation would not be the way to go.
Thus we came out with our mount. It is low cost and takes minutes to install. The battery mod also takes minutes and is free.
Sideways mounting the servo give more space only if you run a low profile servo.
All the settings and tuning you do to the TC6 is of no benefit if the chassis won't respond to it. The two heaviest components, servo and battery needs to float.
We already showed racers how to float the Lipo battery. http://www.rctech.net/forum/11071986-post29.html
The floating servo mount we made is a direct mount and if you do these two things to the servo and battery, you will notice big handling performance. Also lock the servo saver further.
We have talked to several racers and they did tell us drilling holes, and then have to countersink them to use a sideways mount (by-passes stock servo saver and requires a servo saver on servo) and in the end not gain more performance over the floating stock orientation would not be the way to go.
Thus we came out with our mount. It is low cost and takes minutes to install. The battery mod also takes minutes and is free.
#8340