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Old 12-13-2012, 02:39 PM   #8326
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Your setup is a lot different than what most of us would run. My suggested changed is red above. It seems like the rear of your car is extremely soft, which will let the car dump over in corners and become very loose. The front of the car is extremely stiff, which is probably an adjustment for the rear, but it just makes the front end wash out probably. Those changes should get you more in the ballpark of how I know the car likes a setup on carpet.
I'll give it a shot,
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:27 PM   #8327
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I'll give it a shot,
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
I run for AE, and Im very happy to say that the manual setup has worked very well for me on multiple tracks across the US...incl winning me the Snowbirds National title in Amature 17.5 TC and 2nd place in VTA...as well as many regional titles across the Southeast and northern states incl USVTA Scale Nats at The Track Harbor Hobbies taking TQ and finishing 2nd in a 20 min A-main(1st time in 4 years)

You might try again to put the car back to the manual setup and start over. Make sure all the shims and belt cams are in the right place. Then start to make very small changes.

The only changes Ive made is to camber(for traction) and motor timming.

The car will work for you, just take a little time to make small changes to it to get it like you want.

ps..I run the "boxstock" setup, cause I like a very neutral feeling car, alot of the other AE drivers setups dont work for me. Doent mean they wont work for you.

Hope you get it setup like you like...
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Team Associated TC6 Thread-img_20121006_191744.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-photo.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-snowbirds_2012_sunday_964.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-2012_scale_nationals_flier.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-img_20111016_093116.jpg  

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Old 12-13-2012, 05:02 PM   #8328
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Your setup is a lot different than what most of us would run. My suggested changed is red above. It seems like the rear of your car is extremely soft, which will let the car dump over in corners and become very loose. The front of the car is extremely stiff, which is probably an adjustment for the rear, but it just makes the front end wash out probably. Those changes should get you more in the ballpark of how I know the car likes a setup on carpet.


+1 to the above (and geeunits setup tips)

i run/ran in VTA (hard hard tyres) on a low-med grip asphalt outdoor cct. as the car has fairly close to 50/50 weight i ended up running a softer setup up front.
Front -AE greens front/35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons (spool)
Rear -AE silver /35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons rear (Gear diff)

soo predictable and has a huge amount more of turn in to when i ran harder springs in the front.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:06 PM   #8329
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Originally Posted by Monsta View Post
+1 to the above (and geeunits setup tips)

i run/ran in VTA (hard hard tyres) on a low-med grip asphalt outdoor cct. as the car has fairly close to 50/50 weight i ended up running a softer setup up front.
Front -AE greens front/35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons (spool)
Rear -AE silver /35wt oil/reflex 1x1x1.5 pistons rear (Gear diff)

soo predictable and has a huge amount more of turn in to when i ran harder springs in the front.
Thank you for this info, I am going to be setting up my first VTA ride ever and am looking for asmush VTA info as possible for my TC6.1

Spur and pinion idea's?
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:28 PM   #8330
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I'll give it a shot,
Its amazing how you can ask two different touring car guys a question and get totally opposite suggestions. All I know is that I have been all over the map with this car and it didn't get better.
Hey Team Associated: WHY IS YOUR KIT RECOMMENDED SETUP SO TERRIBLE AND SO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT ANY TEAM DRIVER ACTUALLY RUNS ON ANY SURFACE!!!
Thanks
Touring car setup is very much predicated on how you drive, how you manage the traction the tires have since the grip from rubber tires isnt a lot. I do think you will like those changes a lot more than what you had though
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:29 PM   #8331
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Touring car setup is very much predicated on how you drive, how you manage the traction the tires have since the grip from rubber tires isnt a lot. I do think you will like those changes a lot more than what you had though
Gee-approved!
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:10 AM   #8332
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Unfortunately you are right
Also these things break if you just look at them, because of a wrong calculated tool... I really think about using alu c-hubs. Right now I use my old tc5&6 spare parts.
yes

I have allu ones and they sucks more then plastics, more slop ...
and they break a-arm mounts or a-arms on small hits ...

they just need slighty tighter kingpin...
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:23 AM   #8333
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
Thank you for this info, I am going to be setting up my first VTA ride ever and am looking for asmush VTA info as possible for my TC6.1

Spur and pinion idea's?

No worries mate. The pinion/spur will really depend on the track, best bet is to see what the guys are running at your's

For example, we have quite a large track/long straight (3 netball courts) so I ran a fdr of 3.00, 42/63
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:15 AM   #8334
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So... Would it be accurate to say there is a market for a direct fit, floating servo mount for the TC6?
Perhaps I will work something up that folks would be interested in. I like the 3 piece design like the Xray.
Ours is a direct fit and have been available for some time now. Unless you want something different.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:52 PM   #8335
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For those considering the new lightweight axle shaft dont waste your money, they are crap, blades arent even straight with the pin and dont even fit the ae axles as stated. They dont fit because they dont have the flat cap spot at the end like the ae ones.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3290

axles stuck

blades fit crooked







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Old 12-14-2012, 11:53 PM   #8336
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Ours is a direct fit and have been available for some time now. Unless you want something different.
Any Picts of it installed? Does it still mount the servo the stock way, just floating, or does it reorient it to across the chassis instead of inline?
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:47 AM   #8337
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With the grid rc servo mount, the servo is in the standard position (front/back):



http://www.redrc.net/2012/08/team-gr...n-servo-mount/
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:42 AM   #8338
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Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
Any Picts of it installed? Does it still mount the servo the stock way, just floating, or does it reorient it to across the chassis instead of inline?
After testing both mounting positions on the TC6 we have found no difference in performance. Both methods float the servo, connect to the steering bellcrank at 90 degrees. The WC kit still has the stock servo mounts.

Sideways mounting the servo give more space only if you run a low profile servo.

All the settings and tuning you do to the TC6 is of no benefit if the chassis won't respond to it. The two heaviest components, servo and battery needs to float.

We already showed racers how to float the Lipo battery. Team GRID Touring Car Performance Upgrades and Tools

The floating servo mount we made is a direct mount and if you do these two things to the servo and battery, you will notice big handling performance. Also lock the servo saver further.

We have talked to several racers and they did tell us drilling holes, and then have to countersink them to use a sideways mount (by-passes stock servo saver and requires a servo saver on servo) and in the end not gain more performance over the floating stock orientation would not be the way to go.

Thus we came out with our mount. It is low cost and takes minutes to install. The battery mod also takes minutes and is free.
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Last edited by Team Grid RC; 12-15-2012 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:44 AM   #8339
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC View Post
After testing both mounting positions on the TC6 we have found no difference in performance. Both methods float the servo, connect to the steering bellcrank at 90 degrees. The WC kit still has the stock servo mounts.

Sideways mounting the servo give more space only if you run a low profile servo.

All the settings and tuning you do to the TC6 is of no benefit if the chassis won't respond to it. The two heaviest components, servo and battery needs to float.

We already showed racers how to float the Lipo battery. Team GRID Touring Car Performance Upgrades and Tools

The floating servo mount we made is a direct mount and if you do these two things to the servo and battery, you will notice big handling performance. Also lock the servo saver further.

We have talked to several racers and they did tell us drilling holes, and then have to countersink them to use a sideways mount (by-passes stock servo saver and requires a servo saver on servo) and in the end not gain more performance over the floating stock orientation would not be the way to go.

Thus we came out with our mount. It is low cost and takes minutes to install. The battery mod also takes minutes and is free.
Really like your mount - do you ship to the uk if I order through your web site?
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:26 PM   #8340
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Really like your mount - do you ship to the uk if I order through your web site?
We ship worldwide. We already have many racers using these mounts in UK, Sweden and Australia.
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