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Old 11-30-2012, 06:36 AM   #8161
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
Hi guys, coming from a serpent 411 to the new worlds car, does any know why the rear chatters or "skips" around corners? med/high grip carpet? I've tried everything except diff oil. which is stock. i also have the dual cardan from rsd and the aluminum spool outdrives.

Ive tried:
every camber link potition/length.
2mm inside ball stud all around.
2mm outside rear ball stud.
roll centers -h,m,l
droop
shock position (upper)


everything is free and smooth. car only has one race day and one practice day on it. im using a handmedown r9 body for now. my mazdas will be at the hobby shop today. the car is literally within grams from tire to tire and front to back. ive also tried sweep 32's and jaco blues. both do it.
My brother had this problem with another car brand and it was actually the body/body mounts that caused it. The rear of the car doesnt actually lift but the body bounces giving it the impression that the car skipps but if it did I am sure it would spin out. Try a different body or try to take slop off the body mounts.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:52 PM   #8162
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I am running my TC6 with an old Futaba 3PM FM Tx, Hitec FM Rx, and a Hitec HS-311 standard analog servo. This servo is rated at 0.19 sec/60 at 4.8V, 0.15 sec/60 at 6.0V, 42.00 oz-in at 4.8V, 51.00 oz-in at 6.0V.

I am thinking about switching to a Futaba 2.4Ghz system (4PL S-FHSS or 4PKS FASST). In order to use these systems in "high speed" mode I would need to get a digital servo. Is upgrading to a digital servo and running in high speed mode a worthwhile investment, or will I get basically same performance with these systems in normal mode with my analog servo?

Would I need a special high speed digital servo, or would a standard Futaba digital servo be suitable? For example:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFKZ8&P=ML

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTHR5&P=7
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:19 PM   #8163
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Originally Posted by rossb View Post
I am running my TC6 with an old Futaba 3PM FM Tx, Hitec FM Rx, and a Hitec HS-311 standard analog servo. This servo is rated at 0.19 sec/60 at 4.8V, 0.15 sec/60 at 6.0V, 42.00 oz-in at 4.8V, 51.00 oz-in at 6.0V.

I am thinking about switching to a Futaba 2.4Ghz system (4PL S-FHSS or 4PKS FASST). In order to use these systems in "high speed" mode I would need to get a digital servo. Is upgrading to a digital servo and running in high speed mode a worthwhile investment, or will I get basically same performance with these systems in normal mode with my analog servo?

Would I need a special high speed digital servo, or would a standard Futaba digital servo be suitable? For example:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFKZ8&P=ML

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTHR5&P=7
I doubt you'd notice the difference of the "high speed" mode of the radio, but I do think a better servo is a good investment. I prefer servos around 0.10 sec. And while the 51 oz torque of your old servo would work, something over 100 oz would be better.

Also, a 2.4GHz radio is a good upgrade for the fact that you never have to worry about radio conflicts. I've also never glitched with a 2.4GHz radio.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:59 PM   #8164
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I've been using my 3PM FM with numerous Nitro and Electric vehicles for over 8 years and don't recall having issues with glitching. I seem to be the only person left at my local tracks that does not run spread spectrum, so I don't have issues with FM conflicts anymore.

I just want to try something new and everyone keeps telling me that a good spread spectrum will be "much better" than what I am running. I do not know if that is true. I also look a little strange being the only person on the stand with a big antenna. I have not been considering the new 3PM MX FASST because I want to try a new form factor.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:52 PM   #8165
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Hey guy's I am soon to be rejoining the onroad racing after a long absense, I will be doing it via VTA with TC6.1. Can you give me some tips on getting the most out of this chassis with these VTA tires and 69 Camaro body

Thanks everyone.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:56 PM   #8166
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First I 'd build it just like the directions says. That set-up works fine. The only thing I changed was the front springs to ASC Blues. Oh and the Spur gear to a 88 Kimbrough.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:03 AM   #8167
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Default update.

OK. Racing is over tonight. The car was WAY better. I cant for sure pinpoint the "skipping" issue. It is however 99.348% better. My thought on the issue was that the car was rolling and or flexing so much that with the r9 body, the inside rear tire on the corner was lifting allowing the car to "diff out" . Or in other words, when the rear tire lifted, the diff would spin the one tire the opposite direction and thus creating the effect I experienced. Follow me? Initially tonight the car had a very minor case of my initial problem. By going from 5mm rear droop to 4mm rear droop, I had no major problems anymore. Or so it seemed.

I ended up with the following setup. It was stock to begin with. (mostly)

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...stock_2012.pdf

only changes:
droop 6 fr, 4 r
white rear roll bar
stock 40Wt shock oil in all 4
asc blue front spring. stock silver rear springs (his is reverse of this)
25% rebound in shocks
stock piston config and bladders per manual
2k diff oil. with all 4 sat gears
1MM shim under ball studs inside all 4 camber links.
NO outer front ball stud shims.

Other than those changes mentioned above I copied this setup line for line. body, tires and all. Minus electrics.

Next week Im going to try the one Mike sent me from Rapid Competition.
This setup I ended up with left me with little to no chassis roll. The car felt VERY planted. It was lightning fast in the corners and I had EXACTLY the right amount of traction at corner entry though exit. It didnt matter if I was on throttle or off, in the corner. The car was stuck. I could put it anywhere on the track and be ok.


Qualified third and ended up second. There was 5 of us. One guy went home early. 4 started the round and finished so it was a easy open track for me to feel the setup working.

THANKS TO ALL WHO ASSISTED AND GAVE INPUT!


In reference to the servo question above. I run savox in every one of my r/c's. Depending on the servo, it may be wise to run a capacitor in to the receiver. I bought the premade Associated capacitor and crimped a plug on it to fit into a open receiver slot. Some servos under certain load will drain the system causing a "glitch" persay or even the transponder to not read. We have had this happen more than once at out track. Capacitors on the receiver and on the esc are never a bad idea in my opinion. Any 16v capacitor will work. The higher the "Uf" rating the more storage capacity it has. I run a total of 1500Uf between my esc and my receiver. the bigger the cap on the esc, the more punch it will give out of a corner. We have found that beyond 1200Uf on the esc is useless and no more than 900 on the receiver.
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Last edited by BAD007SUZUKI; 12-01-2012 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:06 AM   #8168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossb View Post
I've been using my 3PM FM with numerous Nitro and Electric vehicles for over 8 years and don't recall having issues with glitching. I seem to be the only person left at my local tracks that does not run spread spectrum, so I don't have issues with FM conflicts anymore.

I just want to try something new and everyone keeps telling me that a good spread spectrum will be "much better" than what I am running. I do not know if that is true. I also look a little strange being the only person on the stand with a big antenna. I have not been considering the new 3PM MX FASST because I want to try a new form factor.
Stay away from spektrum in my opinion. Spektrum, savox and castle esc are like freakin oil and water. Have seen many futabas not glitch at all with savox servos but the spektrum is another story. Have had cars glitch even with bec, my tc6 has 3 caps just to make it driveable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
OK. Racing is over tonight. The car was WAY better. I cant for sure pinpoint the "skipping" issue. It is however 99.348% better. My thought on the issue was that the car was rolling and or flexing so much that with the r9 body, the inside rear tire on the corner was lifting allowing the car to "diff out" . Or in other words, when the rear tire lifted, the diff would spin the one tire the opposite direction and thus creating the effect I experienced. Follow me? Initially tonight the car had a very minor case of my initial problem. By going from 5mm rear droop to 4mm rear droop, I had no major problems anymore. Or so it seemed.

I ended up with the following setup. It was stock to begin with. (mostly)

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...stock_2012.pdf

only changes:
droop 6 fr, 4 r
white rear roll bar
stock 40Wt shock oil in all 4
asc blue front spring. stock silver rear springs (his is reverse of this)
25% rebound in shocks
stock piston config and bladders per manual
2k diff oil. with all 4 sat gears
1MM shim under ball studs inside all 4 camber links.
NO outer front ball stud shims.

Other than those changes mentioned above I copied this setup line for line. body, tires and all. Minus electrics.

Next week Im going to try the one Mike sent me from Rapid Competition.
This setup I ended up with left me with little to no chassis roll. The car felt VERY planted. It was lightning fast in the corners and I had EXACTLY the right amount of traction at corner entry though exit. It didnt matter if I was on throttle or off, in the corner. The car was stuck. I could put it anywhere on the track and be ok.


Qualified third and ended up second. There was 5 of us. One guy went home early. 4 started the round and finished so it was a easy open track for me to feel the setup working.

THANKS TO ALL WHO ASSISTED AND GAVE INPUT!


In reference to the servo question above. I run savox in every one of my r/c's. Depending on the servo, it may be wise to run a capacitor in to the receiver. I bought the premade Associated capacitor and crimped a plug on it to fit into a open receiver slot. Some servos under certain load will drain the system causing a "glitch" persay or even the transponder to not read. We have had this happen more than once at out track. Capacitors on the receiver and on the esc are never a bad idea in my opinion. Any 16v capacitor will work. The higher the "Uf" rating the more storage capacity it has. I run a total of 1500Uf between my esc and my receiver. the bigger the cap on the esc, the more punch it will give out of a corner. We have found that beyond 1200Uf on the esc is useless and no more than 900 on the receiver.

I know a guy with a new worlds that chatters with no body on the table only when he turns the wheels. That thing almost sounds as if its shaft driven that noisy.

I had the same issue of the back washing out, but I run in a bumpy track outdoors. Removed the sway bars and put 5-6mm droop and now im chirping tire in and out of the turns from how much more its hooking. I recently tried another body thats not as firm on the sides and had all kinds of weird noises from it. The front of the body right behind the front wheels would tuck in when turning making me think the belts belts were skipping. I have the body posts as low as possible so make sure when you bottom out they dont rub on the inside as mine did.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:34 AM   #8169
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I did also rebuild my rsd dual cardans. I noticed that the coating on the inserts was causing them to bind. I took a long 3mm screw and threaded the inserts on and put it in the drill press. I used fine sand paper until they were shiny and smooth without removing too much material. It seems as though the heavier diff oil helped prevent over rotation in the rear. One other thing I noticed with the design of the car, is that the roll center spacers affect how free the car is. I mean this in that if you were to narrow up the rear as narrow as possible, the driveshaft blades will bind in the outdrive cups of the diff. The same goes for the front. There isnt a lot of room for adjustment in this department. That may have also been my issue. I initally had the car as narrow as possible in the rear. Now its wide and free moving at full compression of the shocks. The lower rear a-arms had a slight amount of tire rim rubbing. I filed off only the area that was in conctact with the tire. (About a 1/4" lower outside rib rear a-arm).
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:11 PM   #8170
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Default Diff fluid

How often should the diff fluid be replaced?
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:15 PM   #8171
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How often should the diff fluid be replaced?
Its not really the fluid the needs maintenance in the diff, its the o-rings,
these need to replaced/cleaned as often as you can, this is where most of diff binding up comes from,

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Old 12-01-2012, 02:33 PM   #8172
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OK, so I tried putting in my motor (Team Orion 17.5) and so I put my gear on (Yeah Racing 38t 48p hard coated pinon) and tried to put it together and got nowhere. There's no room, I can't even get the bolt holes of the motor anywhere near where they should go. The manual says 38/87 (I'm using the kit stock 87t 48p spur) should fit and give me a 4.0 gearing, but unless I'm missing something, there's no way I can get it to fit. Any tips?
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:48 PM   #8173
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Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
OK, so I tried putting in my motor (Team Orion 17.5) and so I put my gear on (Yeah Racing 38t 48p hard coated pinon) and tried to put it together and got nowhere. There's no room, I can't even get the bolt holes of the motor anywhere near where they should go. The manual says 38/87 (I'm using the kit stock 87t 48p spur) should fit and give me a 4.0 gearing, but unless I'm missing something, there's no way I can get it to fit. Any tips?
I think you are reading the chart wrong,
you will need a 76T spur with a 38t pinion to get a 4.0 ratio.

there is no way a 38T pinion will fit with a 87T spur.

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Old 12-01-2012, 03:19 PM   #8174
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Its not really the fluid the needs maintenance in the diff, its the o-rings,
these need to replaced/cleaned as often as you can, this is where most of diff binding up comes from,

Beth.
Thanks
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:40 PM   #8175
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Default Kimbrough spur gear.

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Originally Posted by BullFrog View Post
. Oh and the Spur gear to a 88 Kimbrough.
I have a 108 tooth 64 pitch spur gear that does not fit in my XRay transmission. I was thinking of giving it to a friend of mine who just bought a used TC6 to use in the VTA class, along with a set of 54 through 58 pinions.

Apparently the Kimbrough brand spur gears will fit in the TC6?

Is a 108 64 pitch too big to fit in the chassis. Looking to gear initially in the 4.0 to 3.8 range.
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