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Old 11-22-2012, 12:57 AM   #8101
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
With our rsd6 mount only 1 hole needs to be drilled to achieve the modification. The middle holes on the chassis coincide on the tc6 and rsd6, and we use the furthesmost middle of the chassis hole at the rear of our servo mount. The modification would definitely be easiest with our mount.

Hi, CT,

just want to be sure of 1 thing.
with extra 1 hole drilled, rsd6 1 piece servo mount will also work on tc6.1 chassis??? (not rsd6 chassis).
even with the standard bellcrank?? (not rsd6 double bellcrank).

rsd6 & spec-r looks about the same, but of course, the black colour alu of rsd6 goes well with tc6.1...
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:06 AM   #8102
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Shev,
PM me I will fix you up on behalf of ae Aus.

Cheers
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:15 AM   #8103
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If I knew the RSD one would have been ready, I would have bought that! I'd love to see how it attaches though, because the only counter sunk hole that was available for the ARC R10 mount was only just too close to the belt. Well done RSD if this has worked as planned.

With the ARC R10 Floating servo mount...

Here's the bottom chassis picture.


Here's the gap between the button heads and the bellcrank.


Here's the space between the servo mount and the belt.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:18 AM   #8104
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Originally Posted by Paul.Spencer View Post
Shev,
PM me I will fix you up on behalf of ae Aus.

Cheers
Hey Paul. Thank you so much. I really appreciate that. The shock shafts arrived today from AE. The only thing I really need are the shock shafts ends that attach to the ball stud on the arms. I'm happy to pay for them. I had to put the original ones on the TRF shocks to make the car drivable for the Nationals. Do you work at Mild to Wild?
Thanks again.
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:19 AM   #8105
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Tekin motors are slow, get a Duo 3.5, thunderpower or Reedy, it sounds like your track is too small to really make use of "boost", I would just play with timing and gearing.
Duo 3.5 looks nice. Is one motor really that much faster than another? This is my first brushless motor so I dont really know if buying another is worth it. Do you think I can get 7 seconds faster with one of those?
here's a link to the final of my first TC 6.1 race. My car is the blue and white one being filmed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LT0iXbL5yY
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:40 AM   #8106
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Default 17.5 Traction roll solved

Hebert's set up fixed my high traction carpet rolls. Followed Hebert's set up except I used RSD yellow and purple springs, 4 degree chubs(tried 6 but liked 4), 42.5 and 50 wt shock oil, 1mm hole in cap, RSD bladders and 1,1,1.5 pistons. RSD dual cardons (AE bone blades fit)and RSD's hardened spool outdrive cups. Can full dope fronts now. Absolutely fixed my traction rolls.

Thanks to Howart and Hebert

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...icmod_2011.pdf
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:05 AM   #8107
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Default Chassis tweaking

Here's an option that seems to work for me. Slightly file or dremel the top plate mounting holes making them short slots that are 90 degrees to the plates length. Install the plate inverted using 5mm long bhcs or shcs with washers. This will allow you to loosen the screws, tweak and lock down the chassis to get a L/R balance on your tweak station or what ever method you use without having to preload your shocks and mess with ride height.

I saw this method in another forum and not sure if has been mentioned.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:00 AM   #8108
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Originally Posted by rcwck View Post
Hebert's set up fixed my high traction carpet rolls. Followed Hebert's set up except I used RSD yellow and purple springs, 4 degree chubs(tried 6 but liked 4), 42.5 and 50 wt shock oil, 1mm hole in cap, RSD bladders and 1,1,1.5 pistons. RSD dual cardons (AE bone blades fit)and RSD's hardened spool outdrive cups. Can full dope fronts now. Absolutely fixed my traction rolls.

Thanks to Howart and Hebert

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...icmod_2011.pdf
Is that a typo on the setup sheet? 3A/0B arm mounts for the front? That would angle the front arm down. I've only ever seen the arm either level or angled up.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:06 AM   #8109
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Is that a typo on the setup sheet? 3A/0B arm mounts for the front? That would angle the front arm down. I've only ever seen the arm either level or angled up.
Its antidive, fairly common in onroad. I have tried it on the TC6 before on 6* of castor
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:09 AM   #8110
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Is that a typo on the setup sheet? 3A/0B arm mounts for the front? That would angle the front arm down. I've only ever seen the arm either level or angled up.
Very slight down angle. I was wondering myself about that. Thought maybe why the 6 degree castor chubs.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:23 AM   #8111
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Anyone have a good setup for a TC6 in VTA? Medium grip carpet.

Thanks
Yep. Kit setup is awesome!! I followed it exactly and its great. The only thing I have different is the vented shock cap and 0 rebound. Everything else is the same.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:35 AM   #8112
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Very slight down angle. I was wondering myself about that. Thought maybe why the 6 degree castor chubs.
Looks like a TC6 setup from last year's IIC, which makes sense, as you'd usually run anti-dive on that car with 6 degree caster.
The 6.1 came out shortly after that... Rick's first setup for the 6.1 is in the fall of 2011. Most run the 6.1 car with no anti-dive and 4 degree castor blocks.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:42 PM   #8113
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Hi All,
I have one strange thing, maybe it is not really an issue but let me explain:
My car drives always sligthly to the right. I have set it up -1,5 camber all 4 wheels. At the front both sides -1 toe (all other like caster etc are default like described in the manual). I have the feeling if I roll it manually it is fine, but as far as I drive the car goes slightly to the right and I need to trim to the left. I tried already to change the tires from left to right and placed the accu from left to right but still the same effect. Hope somebody know why.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:47 PM   #8114
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Originally Posted by racer_hh View Post
Hi All,
I have one strange thing, maybe it is not really an issue but let me explain:
My car drives always sligthly to the right. I have set it up -1,5 camber all 4 wheels. At the front both sides -1 toe (all other like caster etc are default like described in the manual). I have the feeling if I roll it manually it is fine, but as far as I drive the car goes slightly to the right and I need to trim to the left. I tried already to change the tires from left to right and placed the accu from left to right but still the same effect. Hope somebody know why.

Thanks in advance
Is it handling fine other than this? Why don't you just trim the steering? That's what the trim is for.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:13 PM   #8115
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Is it handling fine other than this? Why don't you just trim the steering? That's what the trim is for.
That's what I did, but is it usual that a car drives into one direction if you have set it up correctly via setup board? instead of -1 toe per side I have -2 rigth and 0 left. (because of the trimming)
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