R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-02-2012, 08:40 PM   #7951
Tech Adept
 
adriang79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hobart, Tasmania
Posts: 137
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

My new TC6.1 FT is due to arrive Monday, think I got one of the last kits they had at Team Associated.

First new touring car I have had in many years, looking forward to building it.
__________________
www.stmcc-hobart.weebly.com STMCC Secretary

Team Associated TC7 - Hobbywing V3.1 Stock spec -Team Powers Actinium 13.5

http://stmcc-hobart.weebly.com/rcmaker-tas-challenge.html
adriang79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 08:21 AM   #7952
Tech Elite
 
Mike Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Area 51
Posts: 3,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rigelkent09 View Post
copy mike haynes set up in my tc6.1, his belt tensioner/holder in the rear gear diff was in position 6 and i did notice a little loose in the rear belt, is it normal??thanks for the help...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
As long as there is no slip he might have used it to finetune the carbehaviour on acceleration. Otherwise just make it a little tighter.
Yes I usually run the rear belt pretty loose, if you hear it slip on acceleration then tighten it up. The actual number you have set at will vary depending on the age of the belt, I shoot for the front belt being snug, and the rear fairly loose.
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy Power - Sweep - Protoform - TQ Wire - Lacher paint
Mike Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 08:42 AM   #7953
Tech Master
 
rosko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,065
Default

I have my belt at factory settings and my rear belt seems fairly snug and my front belt not so much guess ill have to readjust off of feel then.
rosko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 10:15 AM   #7954
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Hey All,

What other DCJ driveshafts work with the TC6.1 (SpecR for Tamiya, Yokomo, etc)? I just want an alternative to RSDs option.

Thanks,
Kane
Kane-o is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 10:31 AM   #7955
Tech Addict
 
rigelkent09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 618
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
Yes I usually run the rear belt pretty loose, if you hear it slip on acceleration then tighten it up. The actual number you have set at will vary depending on the age of the belt, I shoot for the front belt being snug, and the rear fairly loose.
thanks for the clarification mike, actually my 6.1 is newly built have not try it run on the track yet, my front is 12, rear 6, i will be racing it this afternoon hope i can get positive result
rigelkent09 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 12:00 PM   #7956
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lexington, Kentucky
Posts: 152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Has anybody used ball diffs in the car yet, are they worth getting?
__________________
Mugen MBX7R Eco
SC5M
Mugen MBX7R Werks B6/2 Pro
Futaba 3PKS
maximuspowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 12:47 PM   #7957
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by adriang79 View Post
My new TC6.1 FT is due to arrive Monday, think I got one of the last kits they had at Team Associated.

First new touring car I have had in many years, looking forward to building it.
I had contemplated waiting but I'm glad I didn't considering they seem to be sold out now!

Have fun, it was fun to build.
__________________
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - GPM and OEM hop ups
AE RC10TC6.1FT - partial WC conversion, RSD hop ups
3Racing FGX - IFS, OEM Aluminum, Exotek hop ups
Vostok 7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 02:23 PM   #7958
Tech Addict
 
Losiho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 636
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7
I learned that the inner camber link ballstuds for the FT do NOT work with the WC vertical ballstud bearing caps. They work in the outermost hole, but any other hole is going to interfere with the bearing carriers, and even in the outermost hole they are a little too long for my taste; I have some AE 3.5mm TiN ballstuds on the way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Losiho View Post
Has anyone else had a problem with this ? I have yet to build by TC6.1, but my new WC chassis, shock towers and vertical ballstud bearing caps have arrived.


Bump.
Losiho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 04:14 PM   #7959
Tech Elite
 
Mike Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Area 51
Posts: 3,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

If your in a pinch your dremel with a cutoff wheel can cut down the kit studs. It is important not to have the ballstud too long it will damage the diffholders and bind up your driveline.
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy Power - Sweep - Protoform - TQ Wire - Lacher paint
Mike Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 04:31 PM   #7960
Tech Master
 
wtcc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,186
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maximuspowell View Post
Has anybody used ball diffs in the car yet, are they worth getting?
I used the common ball diff for the rear for some races in the 17.5t class. Worked very good and saves you some weight. In the end an oil filled gear diff gives you more options, less maintenance and a better working drivetrain especially with strong motors. So I will not continue to invest in a balldiff even though the AE balldiff is of a very good quality!
__________________
AE / Reedy / RSD
wtcc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 05:45 PM   #7961
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
If your in a pinch your dremel with a cutoff wheel can cut down the kit studs. It is important not to have the ballstud too long it will damage the diffholders and bind up your driveline.
The WC supplement is finally up on the AE site and I was surprised that they specify 5mm ballstuds for the WC bearing caps. I'm surprised because 5mm would still poke out of the bottom of the hole and seems to me like it could still bind... I feel much more comfortable with the 3.25mm studs.
__________________
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - GPM and OEM hop ups
AE RC10TC6.1FT - partial WC conversion, RSD hop ups
3Racing FGX - IFS, OEM Aluminum, Exotek hop ups
Vostok 7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 06:52 PM   #7962
Tech Elite
 
Mike Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Area 51
Posts: 3,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
The WC supplement is finally up on the AE site and I was surprised that they specify 5mm ballstuds for the WC bearing caps. I'm surprised because 5mm would still poke out of the bottom of the hole and seems to me like it could still bind... I feel much more comfortable with the 3.25mm studs.
In most cases we run a 1or 2mm shim under the inside ballstud, a 3.25 will be too short unless running 0 shim
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy Power - Sweep - Protoform - TQ Wire - Lacher paint
Mike Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 06:54 PM   #7963
Tech Elite
 
Mike Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Area 51
Posts: 3,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane-o View Post
Hey All,

What other DCJ driveshafts work with the TC6.1 (SpecR for Tamiya, Yokomo, etc)? I just want an alternative to RSDs option.

Thanks,
Kane
The version 2 spec r for tc6 is a drop in fit. I prefer the rsd ones as I think they last longer but have used the spec r with good success as well.
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy Power - Sweep - Protoform - TQ Wire - Lacher paint
Mike Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 07:38 PM   #7964
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 817
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
The version 2 spec r for tc6 is a drop in fit.
Including using the stock wheel hexes?
Serzoni is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 08:02 PM   #7965
Tech Elite
 
Mike Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Area 51
Posts: 3,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Yes stock axle pin and hex on the ones I had
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy Power - Sweep - Protoform - TQ Wire - Lacher paint
Mike Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
THE TRACK RACEWAY Apex Mid Atlantic RC Racing 28947 03-17-2017 11:30 AM
Team Associated TC5 RCknight Electric On-Road 13249 01-14-2017 06:34 AM
Team Associated TC6 KostaG Electric On-Road 8 07-04-2010 11:42 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net