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Old 11-01-2012, 07:28 AM   #7921
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
size of the holes in the piston (3 holes; 1 @ 1.5, 2 @ 1)
so in haynes set up he is using 3 hole? right, and those numbers represent the size of the hole, i was confused on this, thanks a lot for the help slakr..
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:33 AM   #7922
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so in haynes set up he is using 3 hole? right, and those numbers represent the size of the hole, i was confused on this, thanks a lot for the help slakr..
Exactly!

Here is a link to that piston...
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6A...15mm_p_11.html

Great products and support from RSD. I highly recommend their shock bladders too!
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-10mm...ers_p_528.html
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:49 AM   #7923
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Exactly!

Here is a link to that piston...
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6A...15mm_p_11.html

Great products and support from RSD. I highly recommend their shock bladders too!
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-10mm...ers_p_528.html
yes i heard good things about them here, i will get one for sure, how about the rsd springs? would you recommend it?
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:56 AM   #7924
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Exactly!

Here is a link to that piston...
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6A...15mm_p_11.html

Great products and support from RSD. I highly recommend their shock bladders too!
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-10mm...ers_p_528.html
The bladders were invaluable, especially for a first time builder like me. Being able to see air bubbles under them really helped.

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yes i heard good things about them here, i will get one for sure, how about the rsd springs? would you recommend it?
I got the tuned spring set. Heard nothing but rave reviews about them.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:09 AM   #7925
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how about the rsd springs? would you recommend it?
RSD springs are great. Very good and consitant. I bought the first set they had out (they have since released many more). I run HPI springs more frequently (along with Blue & Green AE), but they can be hard to find (HPI6543-SILVER 16.9lb, HPI6548-PINK 17.9lb, HPI6542-BLUE 15.3lb).
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:39 AM   #7926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigelkent09 View Post
so in haynes set up he is using 3 hole? right, and those numbers represent the size of the hole, i was confused on this, thanks a lot for the help slakr..
Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Exactly!

Here is a link to that piston...
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6A...15mm_p_11.html

Great products and support from RSD. I highly recommend their shock bladders too!
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-10mm...ers_p_528.html
You can also buy blank pistons and drill the holes that you want. Three hole, 1.1mm is popular.

AE 1/10 Blank Shock Pistons
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:32 AM   #7927
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Well, my build is done. Just need electronics now. Had only a couple hiccups, I'm really impressed. Most of the hiccups were my own stupidity (or following wrong instructions). Nothing that required replacement parts thank goodness. Only kit problems I had were that somehow two screws were missing (thankfully I found suitable replacements) and I learned that the inner camber link ballstuds for the FT do NOT work with the WC vertical ballstud bearing caps. They work in the outermost hole, but any other hole is going to interfere with the bearing carriers, and even in the outermost hole they are a little too long for my taste; I have some AE 3.5mm TiN ballstuds on the way.
Very nice build; clean!

Good info.

You mean to say the threads on the original ballstuds are too long, and the remedy would simply be to get ballstuds with shorter threads?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:42 AM   #7928
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Very nice build; clean!

Good info.

You mean to say the threads on the original ballstuds are too long, and the remedy would simply be to get ballstuds with shorter threads?
Thanks!

Yes. On the normal FT kit they go through the shock towers in to a locknut. They are 8mm long. The WC bearing caps are about 3.5mm thick, so even a 5mm ballstud is going to be slightly too long, that's why I got 3.25mm ballstuds coming (made a mistake in my original post, AE doesn't show 3.5mm ballstuds, so 3.25mm is a better choice):

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31374/

You can see in the last picture the issue, the 8mm ballstuds are far too long.
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Last edited by Vostok 7; 11-01-2012 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:18 PM   #7929
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This is for a new build, do people still CA the CF edges?

I'm going to be building a 6.1 in the next week or so and I've always CA'd the edges, is it still a good step?
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:22 PM   #7930
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This is for a new build, do people still CA the CF edges?

I'm going to be building a 6.1 in the next week or so and I've always CA'd the edges, is it still a good step?

Yes sir we do some add black / red / or blue / even orange paint first then
CA over it
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:35 PM   #7931
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
This is for a new build, do people still CA the CF edges?

I'm going to be building a 6.1 in the next week or so and I've always CA'd the edges, is it still a good step?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...n#post10462543

Pete are you going to make it to G.O.R.C.?
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:43 PM   #7932
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Okay. I could have sworn I saw something in this thread about something for the battery to sit on. I just bought the RSD battery hold down thing for my 6.1 WC. I installed it tonight. I'd like to just but a small strip or two of something down to keep it from sliding around so much. Maybe some sort of adhesive backed felt?
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:33 AM   #7933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
I learned that the inner camber link ballstuds for the FT do NOT work with the WC vertical ballstud bearing caps. They work in the outermost hole, but any other hole is going to interfere with the bearing carriers, and even in the outermost hole they are a little too long for my taste; I have some AE 3.5mm TiN ballstuds on the way.

Has anyone else had a problem with this ? I have yet to build by TC6.1, but my new WC chassis, shock towers and vertical ballstud bearing caps have arrived.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:50 AM   #7934
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief View Post
Okay. I could have sworn I saw something in this thread about something for the battery to sit on. I just bought the RSD battery hold down thing for my 6.1 WC. I installed it tonight. I'd like to just but a small strip or two of something down to keep it from sliding around so much. Maybe some sort of adhesive backed felt?
The battery is supposed to move around a little, say 0.5mm - 1mm to allow the chassis to flex freely on both sides:

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-AE-T...em_p_1300.html

Quote:
Description
This battery hold down system was designed to equalize the flex on your TC6 Chassis.

By using this innovative battery tab system, the battery is held down securely in place while at the same time not interfering with the chassis flex on the right side of the car. With any other battery holding system such as tape, velcro straps or full length battery braces, the battery becomes an integral part of the chassis' rigid structure. This creates a stiffer chassis on the battery side, making the chassis flex asymmetrically.

The Battery tab system allows the battery to "float" on top of the chassis, allowing the chassis to flex freely side to side. As a super cool added bonus, no longer will you need tape or cumbersome velcro to secure your batteries in place.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:59 AM   #7935
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Default Yokomo Springs?

Sorry to ask a daft question!

I have purchased a set of Yokomo springs to try out but how do you guys get them to sit correctly on the shocks?

The Yokomos have a larger diameter than most other brands?

On mine they just slide around and catch the suspension arms and as they move about they change the ride height!!
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