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Old 10-29-2012, 10:33 AM   #7876
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Thank for everyones help....I ordered the TC6.1ft. I will be messing around in parking lots and trying racing on a concrete track.
What are the minimum set up tools needed for a tc? Not looking to spend to much as this is my first try at touring and want to make sure I like. But I also want to be able to set my car up as needed to enjoy the car and bring it up to racing standards. I've been racing sct 2 &4wd for years and spare no expense on them. I hope I will enjoy racing tc just as well and if so with buy the best set up tools.
Many thanks for everyones help.
I have a Yeah Racing setup station, it's been invaluable for my Sprint 2 Flux and will be pressed in to service for my TC6.1 when it's done.

I was surprised to see a droop gauge in the kit, that will be useful!
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:16 PM   #7877
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I need some tips on setting belt tension. I'm running 17.5 blinky and was told at the track my belts were to tight. I've been gradually reducing the tension on both belts, thinking that at some point, it'll be too loose and start skipping. Is that a good target for tension? Go as loose as possible without skipping?
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #7878
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I need some tips on setting belt tension. I'm running 17.5 blinky and was told at the track my belts were to tight. I've been gradually reducing the tension on both belts, thinking that at some point, it'll be too loose and start skipping. Is that a good target for tension? Go as loose as possible without skipping?
You don't want the front belt too loose as it can cause the car to feel loose on initial acceleration due to the belt taking longer to take up the slack in comparison to the rear belt. This may not be that big an issue in 17.5t but it's difinately something we have to watch when running mod.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:02 PM   #7879
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Default Urgent help going nuts....

Hi can somebody help me.... I am having a lot of vibration in the big belt when i press the gas then at full throttle it settles. The worst vibration on the belt comes when i turn steering to the right. I ve checked everything for many times no binding no nothing only this...

Pls help
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:12 PM   #7880
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How's your belt tension. If its a little on the loose side it's probably ok. Keep in mind that the portion of the belt that is above the top deck slackens while the lower portion tightens on throttle. Just like the previous posts, just loosen enough so the pulleys don't skip.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:29 PM   #7881
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How's your belt tension. If its a little on the loose side it's probably ok. Keep in mind that the portion of the belt that is above the top deck slackens while the lower portion tightens on throttle. Just like the previous posts, just loosen enough so the pulleys don't skip.
Thanks for your quick reply. So i just try to loosen both belts? Because currently both belts are as per manual set up
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:39 PM   #7882
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A bit loose is better than tight for a free moving drive train. But not too loose where the pulleys start skipping. The belts vary in circumference from belt to belt so the kit setting may or may not be just right. If in doubt, have a fellow racer look at it.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:02 PM   #7883
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If this vibration is only when turning, this is caused due to the spool in the front end of your car. In order to eliminate this, you need to use Dual Joint Front Universals. What is happening is that the drive shafts are binding due to the angle of your drive shafts and spool.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:40 PM   #7884
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Blinky- high torque
Boost- stock rotor is fine
Thanks. I will probably set to blinky to learn with. Does the HT rotor provide more low in power with the tc as it does in my sct? I have a standard rotor if that is preferred.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:51 PM   #7885
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Thanks. I will probably set to blinky to learn with. Does the HT rotor provide more low in power with the tc as it does in my sct? I have a standard rotor if that is preferred.
High torque or larger 12.5 mm rotor is ideal for blinky classes so you can have more low end power coming out of corners. On or off road!
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #7886
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High torque or larger 12.5 mm rotor is ideal for blinky classes so you can have more low end power coming out of corners. On or off road!
Understood...Thank you
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:59 PM   #7887
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You're welcome!
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:00 PM   #7888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7 View Post
I have a Yeah Racing setup station, it's been invaluable for my Sprint 2 Flux and will be pressed in to service for my TC6.1 when it's done.

I was surprised to see a droop gauge in the kit, that will be useful!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
In my opinion you need the following:

1. Flat setup board (3 racing makes a nice carbon fiber one)
2. Ride height gauge that reads in .2mm increments (Hudy)
3. 10mm setup blocks (any brand)
4. Digital calipers
5. Camber gauge/block that reads in .5 deg increments

The droop gauge that comes in the kit is OK although I use digital calipers/setup blocks to measure if even from side to side.

Thanks guys. Looks like on road setup is more precise than off road. I will be looking for more info and videos so I can get up to speed.
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:04 PM   #7889
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On road can be a bit tedious but can be a lot of fun. It can also be a pain in the a$$ when you're if the pace but trying to keep up with the next guy is the fun part( well for me it is).
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:22 AM   #7890
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where can i get that chassis from
WWW.rcfunny.com
It's about $52 with free shipping.
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