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Old 10-11-2012, 05:42 AM   #7606
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Mr, Hebert gave me a quick tip that I had not considered.

Tc6.1 arms.
Grind the area where the spring retainer meets the arms.
Just enough so they dont rub in all arm positions.

I had been struggling with chassis tweak, shock lengths, weight balance etc only to find that the retainers were not allowing the shocks to work freely.

Small pointer = huge relief in frusteration.

Just wish I had done this in Vegas and not at home.....Oh well next year

Just posted 4 Mains from the iic on you tube.

Channel= DaveChen.
Sorry, I dont understand what to do; it is possible to have a photo?
Thks
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:02 AM   #7607
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You have to dremel out a little bit of plastic from the suspension arm where the shock
spring cup touches the arm (it's that black thing that holdes spring at the bottom), btw. good idea!
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:40 AM   #7608
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Tc6 worlds car! Woot!

Last edited by whiteflagwar; 10-11-2012 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:02 PM   #7609
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What is the deal with the "Total Toe" specification on the setup sheet?
It seems that the rear end has about .5 of toe built in, is that right?

So if I used the same FWD arm mount as the RWD and no shims then I would have .5 total toe in the rear end?

If I have the same FWD and RWD blocks in the rear then add 1mm shim to each RWD then I would have 1.5 total toe in the rear. Is this 1.5 degrees?

Why is it called total toe? It appears that its a per side total rather than a combined total. Like I would expect 1.5 degrees per side to be 3 degrees total toe.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:15 PM   #7610
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If you use the same blocks front and rear, you get 0 degrees, so long as you build your hubs with 0 degree inserts.

With the car, each 0.8mm equals roughly 1 degree of toe. So if your car is 2mm wider in the rear than the front, your car has about 2.5 degrees of rear toe.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:38 PM   #7611
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
If you use the same blocks front and rear, you get 0 degrees, so long as you build your hubs with 0 degree inserts.

With the car, each 0.8mm equals roughly 1 degree of toe. So if your car is 2mm wider in the rear than the front, your car has about 2.5 degrees of rear toe.
Oh I see. I didnt actually build the car so I failed to notice those inserts. I knew the fronts had them but never bothered to check the rear.

Most all of the setup sheets I see list the FRW mount shim and the RWD mount shim and I just subtract the rear from the front and get a total. For example if I have 3mm at the RWD and .5mm at the FWD mount then I have net 2.5mm.

If I want to know my total toe in degrees then I can add about 20% to that number making my total toe about 3 degrees.

But it still is a per side figure? Not a total of both sides.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:44 PM   #7612
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
You don't need the complete CVA assembly, just the axle #31369 is enough. You do need the hub carriers, steering blocks, bearings, c-hubs, etc. The new style anti-roll bars are optional. 6x10 bearings won't work with the new CVAs.
Thanks for the info. It's good to know that just the axle is enough for the CVAs update, since they are the most expensive parts.

Responding to WTCC, I am racing with my TC6 at the moment. The only reason I am trying to update the suspension is for potentially more corner speed. I was informed that the TC6.1 has more steering so I assume that's from the new steering blocks and the new suspension geometry.

However, you don't seem to find the TC6.1 faster than your TC6. Now I might reconsider the update.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:17 PM   #7613
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Cristian,

I have the RSD bladders, pistons, and spring set for the TC6.1 shocks. What oil and spring combo would be a good starting point for medium traction bumpy carpet? What rebound would be best?

Also should I drill the shock caps with a 1mm hole or not?
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:29 PM   #7614
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Which wheels/tires do you guys run in an outdoor 17.5 class?
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:50 PM   #7615
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Im excited, I just ordered my worlds chasis and should have it on Monday

But i have just recently moved from blinky (21.5) to mod (4.5) so im still learning and will probably leave the old chassis in until i have it more under control, and i am a little more on the pace. Give me another couple of months.

Beth.
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:56 PM   #7616
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Which wheels/tires do you guys run in an outdoor 17.5 class?
I like Sorex. Cost a bit more but very grippy and durable. Depending on grip and heat. 32r or 36r

Other brands to try, Sweep, Solaris.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:07 PM   #7617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Oh I see. I didnt actually build the car so I failed to notice those inserts. I knew the fronts had them but never bothered to check the rear.

Most all of the setup sheets I see list the FRW mount shim and the RWD mount shim and I just subtract the rear from the front and get a total. For example if I have 3mm at the RWD and .5mm at the FWD mount then I have net 2.5mm.

If I want to know my total toe in degrees then I can add about 20% to that number making my total toe about 3 degrees.

But it still is a per side figure? Not a total of both sides.
"Total toe" refers to hubs plus arm sweep. Not Left plus right.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:42 AM   #7618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Chmura View Post
You have to dremel out a little bit of plastic from the suspension arm where the shock
spring cup touches the arm (it's that black thing that holdes spring at the bottom), btw. good idea!
Thks for the tip.
Enry
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:54 AM   #7619
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Cristian,

I have the RSD bladders, pistons, and spring set for the TC6.1 shocks. What oil and spring combo would be a good starting point for medium traction bumpy carpet? What rebound would be best?

Also should I drill the shock caps with a 1mm hole or not?
Russ, checkout the Mike's Hobbyshop set-up from the website. That has been my favorite. Yes, it is for the RSD6, but it should transfer over nicely. Mike's is medium grip and bumpy.

In the shocks, I have been running 3x1.1 pistons lately, but you can use the 1,1,1.5's and just run 50-100 cst higher.

I always run drilled shock caps with zero rebound.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:42 AM   #7620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Im excited, I just ordered my worlds chasis and should have it on Monday

But i have just recently moved from blinky (21.5) to mod (4.5) so im still learning and will probably leave the old chassis in until i have it more under control, and i am a little more on the pace. Give me another couple of months.

Beth.
Cool! I got my stuff today. Man, the new chassis is more narrow than the Serpent one!
I upgrade my TC6.1 to the Worlds edition. It is a lot of expensive stuff...



(I don't think it is really worth it, because speed will be nearly the same, but bling bling and a little easier for rollcenter...)
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