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Old 10-05-2012, 06:55 PM   #7546
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You run there often?
Sent you a PM regarding Rosewood so as not to take the TC6 thread off on a tangent.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:45 PM   #7547
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any tricks on how to deal with loctite?? i stripped 3 screw in my tc6 as im about to switch a new spur, thanks.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:13 PM   #7548
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any tricks on how to deal with loctite?? i stripped 3 screw in my tc6 as im about to switch a new spur, thanks.
If it's the screw head, cutting a slot with a dremel and using a screwdriver is what I've seen recommended. Also, I think heat can help release locktite. Maybe try heating the screw with a soldering iron? I don't speak from experience on either, though.

Also, don't just blindly locktite everything. Only use it where you actually have things come loose. I don't remember needing it anywhere on the tc6.1, except maybe the spool outdrives.

-Mike
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:18 PM   #7549
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Now for the questions. Is this car naturally tail happy or was it the track surface and my choice of tire?
The kit setup for the 6.1 was quite tail happy for me on carpet. I never tried it on asphalt. The things I'd do first are more rear toe (kit was only aboit 2.5*), and a softer rear spring.

-Mike
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:48 PM   #7550
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My new 17.5 blinky car will be a TC6.1. I'm setting it up right now and it is box stock. I was going to use the kit setup for starters but I'm not sure thats the best starting choice for medium/low grip bumpy-ish carpet. Is there a better choice for initial setup?

Parts that I have on my TC6 that I could transfer over to the TC6.1 if needed are RSD soft bladders, 1-1-1.5 pistons and full RSD spring set if needed.

Second part is when I set up the TC6 for VTA what is a good starting point for that? Kit setup?

Any suggestions.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:38 PM   #7551
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Just got myself a second hand tc6 to have a go with.

During my first race meeting I broke the L shaped lipo retainer.

Does anyone make alloy retainers with a Velcro strap??

Saw some X-rays with this system fitted
You can also use the damaged brace and build a bullet proof L-part and put it on it. Made this after sharing your experience a year ago:
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:01 AM   #7552
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
My new 17.5 blinky car will be a TC6.1. I'm setting it up right now and it is box stock. I was going to use the kit setup for starters but I'm not sure thats the best starting choice for medium/low grip bumpy-ish carpet. Is there a better choice for initial setup?

Parts that I have on my TC6 that I could transfer over to the TC6.1 if needed are RSD soft bladders, 1-1-1.5 pistons and full RSD spring set if needed.

Second part is when I set up the TC6 for VTA what is a good starting point for that? Kit setup?

Any suggestions.
I also use the full Reflex series for my TC6.1 and like it very much. The pistons and springs are a must for a bumpy indoor track. My car became a lot calmer and easier to drive. So these things really help. The rest is to your liking. What my car improved was to drive with no shims between arm mounts and bulkhead (or to narrow front an rear); try 3000cst for the gear diff, 1.5* camber all around and combine it with a Mazda MPS lightweigt.
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:27 AM   #7553
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Originally Posted by venom54 View Post
At this moment possibly end of October for the kit and next week for the new chassis.

Cheers Ren
sounds good to me
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:00 AM   #7554
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Many thanks wtcc, great mod making the carbon L braket for the lipo holder.

Off the garage go!
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:02 PM   #7555
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
The kit setup for the 6.1 was quite tail happy for me on carpet. I never tried it on asphalt. The things I'd do first are more rear toe (kit was only aboit 2.5*), and a softer rear spring.

-Mike
Thanks. Ive never ran on carpet but it is much more common so I assumed traction on carpet was better.

How much toe in on the rear are you running? Did anyone else have issues with stock setup out the box?
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:10 PM   #7556
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Ok I did some looking around at the adjustments I could make for more rear toe and decided the easiet/quickest would be using the shims on the rear arm mounts. But I read that the plastic shims can be weak/break. And aluminum shims were suggested. Is breaking a common problem with the plastic shims supplied in the kit???
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #7557
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Originally Posted by nitrous36 View Post
Ok I did some looking around at the adjustments I could make for more rear toe and decided the easiet/quickest would be using the shims on the rear arm mounts. But I read that the plastic shims can be weak/break. And aluminum shims were suggested. Is breaking a common problem with the plastic shims supplied in the kit???
The plastic shims will deform. Get some 12r5 bulkhead shims. They are more secure and will give accurate adjustments.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:25 PM   #7558
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Finally, use a hex driver under the rear of the chassis in the balance hole and lift the chassis slowly. Verify that both rear wheels lift off the board at the same time. If one wheel lifts first, that means you either got the left/right balance way off, or your front end is tweaked. Tighten the diagonally-opposite spring, and loosen the spring on the same side of the other end of the car. When both wheels lift at the same time, flip the car around and repeat while lifting the front end.
Balance hole?

Why not use a tweak station to check left/right balance?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNY22&P=7
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:32 PM   #7559
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I just started building my 6.1 and I'm working on the rear diff. The manual is telling me to put shim 31348 on each outdrive, on both the outside of the diff case and on the inside of the diff case. That would require 4 shims.





The problem is I only got 2 shims in Bag B big enough to fit on the outdrives. Looking at the Diff Pin/Shim kit for the TC6 at Tower here:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBUWY&P=7



I got the 4 pins, 5 small shims (on the left), and 2 large shims (on the right). I did not get the medium sized shims (in the middle). Is the manual wrong, or was my kit shorted shims?
I called AE and they set me a complete diff shim kit, part # 31348. I installed the shims that go on the outdrives (outside of the diff case) and with these shims in place I found my outdrives to be much too tight. These shims were making the diff action much too tight so I ended up removing them. This makes me wonder if AE left them out of my 6.1 kit on purpose.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:35 PM   #7560
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Balance hole?

Why not use a tweak station to check left/right balance?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNY22&P=7
There is a balance hole at each end of the chassis.

The suggestion is very quick and foolproof. Nothing wrong with a tweak station if one is available.
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