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Old 11-25-2010, 06:11 PM   #721
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Originally Posted by Q_man View Post
Hi All,
I am new to onroad (offroad racer) just wonderig what body is shown on the car on the AE site? Also what are the wheels?
I assume the kit doesn't come with either.
Thanks
Wayne.
I believe the tires are solaris premounts
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:13 PM   #722
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Does the TC6 come with the soft plastic suspension parts or the HARD parts?

The kit does come with hard parts! It is a typo in the manual.
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:45 PM   #723
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Hey Walt, we met at MSI a few times. Thanks for the info.

Associated doesn't seem to have a link to a manual on their website though, therefore all the questions. Appreciate the response! I'm assuming they are the same arms, caster blocks, hubs, steering blocks as TC5?

Another totally different question.. What are you running for ESC and Motor in the mod class?

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:29 PM   #724
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Default Blue velcro

Just been wandering thru the touring car info. I just bought a SC10 and have been tinkering with that. Anyway i noticed that you guys have been wanting some blue velcro. You should be able to find it at a Electrical Supply House. Its used in low voltage installations.

Here is a link to grainger, they have a ton of colors here's blue
(cant post links yet)
Anyway search grainger.....Velcro.....and blue within that search.

They have other colors, but you were looking for blue
3/4 wide 12 yds, for 23.07

Also have a newbie question. I ran my first indoor carpet race two weekends ago and had a ball (short course). Was wondering how much more is the touring car, as far as setups and handling out of the box. Looks like it would be a blast to run. Any tips for adding a car to my lineup.

KC
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Old 11-25-2010, 08:33 PM   #725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q_man View Post
Hi All,
I am new to onroad (offroad racer) just wonderig what body is shown on the car on the AE site? Also what are the wheels?
I assume the kit doesn't come with either.
Thanks
Wayne.
Body is a protoform LTC-R, tires are Solaris pre-mounts.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:24 AM   #726
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Body is a protoform LTC-R, tires are Solaris pre-mounts.
Thanks all for the info. Now just have to get my hands on one.
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Old 11-26-2010, 02:38 PM   #727
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Default new love ;)

I just came home from my first drive with the TC6.

After I made the standard setup yesterday I was skeptical if the car will behave well on the track. 4,5 degree camber for the rear tires and 7mm droop in front are values I never used for the TC5. Also did the standard setup of the TC5 never suit my driving style. I had massive understeer. So I wasn't sure what to expect...
Right now I am very happy, satisfied and relieved. The car is an angel on the track! The behaviour is predictable all the time. It turns as you think it should when turning the steering wheel. Setup changes are clearly traceable and recognizeable on track. The standard setup is a very good start for medium grip indoor carpet (there is nearly no rolling in curves noticeable).

My first change, I removed the rear anti-roll-bar, immediatly brought two tenth. My next step was to relocate the arm mounts from B to A. The car now felt a little inert. After removing the front anti-roll-bar too, the car became more agile & grippy than before and I was able to complete more than 70 consecutive laps in a constancy I never had experienced with the TC5. The car is fast, forgives little mistakes, is great over the curbs, follows your commands like it reads your mind. It just gives the confidence the driver needs to concentrate to gain the last two tenth per lap.

Just one thing (I think it was mentioned before): The screws for the spur gear get loose really quick! I lost one after 5 minutes. So before hitting the track use your threadlock on these! Same problem with the arm mount screws. Retighten after every run.
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:33 PM   #728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnasdad View Post
Just been wandering thru the touring car info. I just bought a SC10 and have been tinkering with that. Anyway i noticed that you guys have been wanting some blue velcro. You should be able to find it at a Electrical Supply House. Its used in low voltage installations.

Here is a link to grainger, they have a ton of colors here's blue
(cant post links yet)
Anyway search grainger.....Velcro.....and blue within that search.

They have other colors, but you were looking for blue
3/4 wide 12 yds, for 23.07

Also have a newbie question. I ran my first indoor carpet race two weekends ago and had a ball (short course). Was wondering how much more is the touring car, as far as setups and handling out of the box. Looks like it would be a blast to run. Any tips for adding a car to my lineup.

KC
heya

Touring cars can be alot of fun, but if not setup properly they can cause nothing but fustration, id find the local track, and talk to the locals about what car to buy and see which one is the most popular, that way, there will be handy setup advice available to you.

Ed
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:47 PM   #729
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Default gearing question

Ok.. our club runs 17.5 without boost.. so FDRs are around 3.6-3.9. Which means I need to run a 98/50-54 - 64p. So.. will a standard PRS spur fit the TC6? Am I going to be able to screw the motor in? Do we need special gears for these? I noticed that the 87t-48p has holes in the spur so you can put a wrench thru it.

Any advice would be great.

thanks,
Chris
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:43 AM   #730
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
I just came home from my first drive with the TC6.

After I made the standard setup yesterday I was skeptical if the car will behave well on the track. 4,5 degree camber for the rear tires and 7mm droop in front are values I never used for the TC5. Also did the standard setup of the TC5 never suit my driving style. I had massive understeer. So I wasn't sure what to expect...
Right now I am very happy, satisfied and relieved. The car is an angel on the track! The behaviour is predictable all the time. It turns as you think it should when turning the steering wheel. Setup changes are clearly traceable and recognizeable on track. The standard setup is a very good start for medium grip indoor carpet (there is nearly no rolling in curves noticeable).

My first change, I removed the rear anti-roll-bar, immediatly brought two tenth. My next step was to relocate the arm mounts from B to A. The car now felt a little inert. After removing the front anti-roll-bar too, the car became more agile & grippy than before and I was able to complete more than 70 consecutive laps in a constancy I never had experienced with the TC5. The car is fast, forgives little mistakes, is great over the curbs, follows your commands like it reads your mind. It just gives the confidence the driver needs to concentrate to gain the last two tenth per lap.

Just one thing (I think it was mentioned before): The screws for the spur gear get loose really quick! I lost one after 5 minutes. So before hitting the track use your threadlock on these! Same problem with the arm mount screws. Retighten after every run.

4,5 degree camber are you sure??
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:50 AM   #731
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TC6 Kits was arrivals !
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:31 AM   #732
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
Ok.. our club runs 17.5 without boost.. so FDRs are around 3.6-3.9. Which means I need to run a 98/50-54 - 64p. So.. will a standard PRS spur fit the TC6? Am I going to be able to screw the motor in? Do we need special gears for these? I noticed that the 87t-48p has holes in the spur so you can put a wrench thru it.

Any advice would be great.

thanks,
Chris
Xray, RW and Xenon spurs fits without any modification, so you have a wide range of choice...
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:35 AM   #733
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Xray, RW and Xenon spurs fits without any modification, so you have a wide range of choice...
So the answer is Yes, you do need a slotted spur. I dont see how a PRS or Kimbrough will let you tighten the motor screws.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:05 AM   #734
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Well done Juho!



4th place at ETS event

http://ets.redrc.net/2010/11/volker-...it-2-out-of-2/


Juho was using gear diff and question is which oil?

I know that trf416 friend was change from AE 2000 to 1000 for
better corner speed, 2000 was not right for him.


Now, why Juho use links at top?



?

Anyway, great job done by Juho, as usually all wait for setup
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:06 AM   #735
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
So the answer is Yes, you do need a slotted spur. I dont see how a PRS or Kimbrough will let you tighten the motor screws.
Just for reference, right now i'm using a 100T/64P spur with a 38t pinion (fdr is 5.26) and the motor can be moved forward for about 5-6mm, so i think there is enough space for your gearing needs.
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