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Old 07-25-2012, 10:35 PM   #7186
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Originally Posted by bigtez View Post
Getting back into racing after about 5yrs off and need to purchase some spurs and pinions. I will be running 10.5T Blinky (6.0-7.0 FDR) and 17.5T Blinky (3.5ish??FDR). What sizes should I stock up on that will cover this range in 48pitch?
When I ran 17.5 I was always at 4.0-4.4 fdr. 3.5 is for super big tracks imo. Not sure if ae makes spurs lower than 80, but I would go to 64 pitch and have a wider window for gearing. 80 spur and 35 pinion will put you at 4.5 depending on track. When I ran 64 pitch I had to switch to 94 and 47 to get 4.0 fdr. As far as 6-7 fdr stock 87 spur with 27 will put you at 6.7 fdr.

I went from 64 to 48 as there is a bit of rocks on the track and I didn't want to be changing spurs all the time.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:03 PM   #7187
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I noticed a couple of pages back someone was having trouble fitting a brushed silver can into this chassis.
Im considering buying a tc6.1 and was wondering if anyone can confirm if a silver can will fit running a FDR of around 4.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:29 PM   #7188
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Originally Posted by Glarke View Post
I noticed a couple of pages back someone was having trouble fitting a brushed silver can into this chassis.
Im considering buying a tc6.1 and was wondering if anyone can confirm if a silver can will fit running a FDR of around 4.
That was me. I had to dremel the motor mount about 2-3mm towards the bottom of chassis in the oval part of the mount and 2-3 towards the front of the car. I'm like 1-2mm away from the front mount hole screw. I also had to shim it out. I'm at 80spur with 31 pinion for a 5.1 fdr. If you want to be at 4 then you will have to switch to 64 pitch. Speedtech carries the new v2 spurs. When I ran 17.5 I was at 4.0 with 94-47. Also the 94 spur is a lot smaller than my 80 so that will move the motor back and give you more pinion space to play with, but since it's smaller and further back you may need to cut the back side opposite of what I did so you can slide the motor more freely. With 48 pitch im stuck with only 2 pinion as that's all I can move the motor due to the bushing being on the way. 30-32

The reason why i want 48 pitch is because of rocks getting in.




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Old 07-27-2012, 02:50 PM   #7189
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
That was me. I had to dremel the motor mount about 2-3mm towards the bottom of chassis in the oval part of the mount and 2-3 towards the front of the car. I'm like 1-2mm away from the front mount hole screw. I also had to shim it out. I'm at 80spur with 31 pinion for a 5.1 fdr. If you want to be at 4 then you will have to switch to 64 pitch. Speedtech carries the new v2 spurs. When I ran 17.5 I was at 4.0 with 94-47. Also the 94 spur is a lot smaller than my 80 so that will move the motor back and give you more pinion space to play with, but since it's smaller and further back you may need to cut the back side opposite of what I did so you can slide the motor more freely. With 48 pitch im stuck with only 2 pinion as that's all I can move the motor due to the bushing being on the way. 30-32

The reason why i want 48 pitch is because of rocks getting in.




Why would you do that to your car just to run a kit motor?
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:13 PM   #7190
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I was just thinking the same thing.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:09 PM   #7191
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Kimbrough doesn't make a smaller 48p spur?
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:08 AM   #7192
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Why would you do that to your car just to run a kit motor?
Why the hell not? What other motors are there to run without the bushing on front? I want to run gt3 brushed class as onroad is new to me and I want to work my way up to a faster class rather then jump in a class I don't belong, after all it's just a 20 dollar piece and it still works with any bl motor.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:26 AM   #7193
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
Why the hell not? What other motors are there to run without the bushing on front? I want to run gt3 brushed class as onroad is new to me and I want to work my way up to a faster class rather then jump in a class I don't belong, after all it's just a 20 dollar piece and it still works with any bl motor.
No need to be so defensive, sorry I asked.
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:01 AM   #7194
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Some tracks allow silver cans to run with their 25.5 & 21.5 classes. If you nail the gearing and other factors, they are very competitive. Not my cup of tea though, but some swear by it
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:40 PM   #7195
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
No need to be so defensive, sorry I asked.
I wasn't. It's the net so anything can sound different. Sorry too

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Some tracks allow silver cans to run with their 25.5 & 21.5 classes. If you nail the gearing and other factors, they are very competitive. Not my cup of tea though, but some swear by it
Have heard about it too, but they dont have those brushless classes as of now. But I much rather run those bl efficient motors over brush in hoping they bring vta though.
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:24 PM   #7196
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For those who wish to mount a Tamiya 540J Silver Can in their TC6 / TC6.1, please know it is not necessary to modify the motor mount.

To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.

I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.

Thus, this solution is tough and works.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:54 PM   #7197
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Originally Posted by waswadener View Post
For those who wish to mount a Tamiya 540J Silver Can in their TC6 / TC6.1, please know it is not necessary to modify the motor mount.

To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.

I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.

Thus, this solution is tough and works.
You may want try this spacer. Your method is a good fix but I am sure under racing conditions, the motor is flexing up an down.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacer-SCRT-RTR
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:59 PM   #7198
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Kimbrough doesn't make a smaller 48p spur?
We use Robinson Racing spurs that has a range from 49T to 96T in 48 pitch.

http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/48pitchspur.html
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Old 07-28-2012, 09:29 PM   #7199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waswadener View Post
For those who wish to mount a Tamiya 540J Silver Can in their TC6 / TC6.1, please know it is not necessary to modify the motor mount.

To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.

I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.

Thus, this solution is tough and works.
I did that with Kyosho washers, but I didn't have a good feeling about it. I also didn't really like the back of the motor hanging 1 inch pass the chassis edge.

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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC View Post
You may want try this spacer. Your method is a good fix but I am sure under racing conditions, the motor is flexing up an down.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacer-SCRT-RTR
Now that's seems ok so it has more even contact all the way around? Do you know for a fact the center Opening is big enough for the front bushing?
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:15 AM   #7200
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Yes, with the spacer method, the Silver Can visually does appear to hang over the edge of the chassis a long ways. I was concerned about that too. However, when I compared how far the Silver Can hangs off with how far my brushless TC6 motors hang off, the Silver Can extends outboard only a few millimeters more. The Silver Can hanging off doesn't seem to present more of a risk to the car than any other motor, as in countless significant hits, neither one of our Silver Can cars has seen any motor or motor mount damage.

About flexing, I've raced the kids cars (lapped the field one race), sometimes just to make sure their cars are running good and sometimes when my car isn't working. If the Silver Can is flexing on its mount, it's totally, completly not noticeable when driving the car. Also, there is no abnormal gear wear (e.g. angular wear indicating mis-alignment of the pinion and spur) or any gear wear at all for that matter.

That said, the Kyosho spacer does present what could be a more visually elegant solution, although the Kyosho washer would block the Silver Can's inboard vent holes. Not diss-ing Team Grid RC's idea. It's a good one. It's just that there are pros and cons to everything.

Anyway, the Kyosho spacer, Dubro M3 flat washers, TA shims or other similar method are all viable options.

The gist of it is that one need not grind at their motor mount to get a Silver Can to fit. This is good because Silver Can racing is so fun.
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