Personnally i like to use
Long inner camber link hole
- On carpet track (but not always true... test-test-test)
- On long outside tracks with fast sweepers.
It gives fastest directions changes with better stability.
Short inner camber link hole
- On short outside tracks with lot of "slow" turn.
It gives better stability in that case.
Long/Short balstud is used to find the correct height with little change.
Shims under ball stud to use ? :
When using more shims under ballstud (inside and outside), the parallelepiped (Camber link + arms) is bigger and means better stability.
Difference betwwen outside and inner balstud : The more the camber link is angled
"how would i know is my droop or camber is too little or too much?"
Droop => testing is the best ?
Camber => See your tyres wear.
See the manual,all is explained
Camber Link Position:
The camber link is used to set static camber at ride height, but it is also an effective setting to adjust roll center height and camber
gain. The TC6.1 has 7 positions for the front camber link, and 14 for the rear. These positions vary in both length and angle.
Longer links will produce less camber gain, stiffening that particular end of the car in roll. These are particularly effective on large
tracks with big sweeping corners. Shorter links will give more camber gain, softening that end of the car in roll. This will make the
car more aggressive, and is a good setting for smaller indoor tracks with high grip levels.
The angle of the camber link will make fine adjustments to the roll center height. Typically the camber link will be no more than
parallel to the suspension arm with the inboard side of the link lower than the outboard side. As the inboard side of the camber link
is moved down, the roll center goes up, stiffening that end of the car. Camber link angle is a good adjustment to help fine tune the
balance of the car to the track by setting the front and rear at slightly different angles.