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Old 07-04-2012, 12:11 PM   #7081
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Originally Posted by Madulla View Post
I ran the 1258 fine in stock, but found the glitching problem when running mod with a spectrum radio. Switched to a 1251 and the problem went away. The 1251 must draw less power from the bec. I like the 1251 and run it in every car I own.
Thanks for the feedback regarding the glitch issues.
I ended up using a Spektrum cap on my SCR-SP with a Tekin RS/Savox 1258/SR3100 RX to fix the glitches.
Great to know that the 1251 will not have the glitching issues.
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Old 07-04-2012, 03:03 PM   #7082
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Now that I think about, it was when I switched to the tekin rs from a hobbywing that I started glitching with the 1258. Putting a 1251 solved the issue.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:39 AM   #7083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
can anyone please explain which inner camber link hole on tower, short or long ball stud and shims under ball stud to use?
i have been using what the team drivers used but i have no idea when to
add or remove shims or choosing the right inner camber positions

also how would i know is my droop or camber is too little or too much?

thanks for your help

Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
Anyone?
Personnally i like to use
Long inner camber link hole
- On carpet track (but not always true... test-test-test)
- On long outside tracks with fast sweepers.
It gives fastest directions changes with better stability.

Short inner camber link hole
- On short outside tracks with lot of "slow" turn.
It gives better stability in that case.

Long/Short balstud is used to find the correct height with little change.

Shims under ball stud to use ? :
When using more shims under ballstud (inside and outside), the parallelepiped (Camber link + arms) is bigger and means better stability.

Difference betwwen outside and inner balstud : The more the camber link is angled

"how would i know is my droop or camber is too little or too much?"
Droop => testing is the best ?
Camber => See your tyres wear.

See the manual,all is explained :

Camber Link Position:
The camber link is used to set static camber at ride height, but it is also an effective setting to adjust roll center height and camber
gain. The TC6.1 has 7 positions for the front camber link, and 14 for the rear. These positions vary in both length and angle.
Longer links will produce less camber gain, stiffening that particular end of the car in roll. These are particularly effective on large
tracks with big sweeping corners. Shorter links will give more camber gain, softening that end of the car in roll. This will make the
car more aggressive, and is a good setting for smaller indoor tracks with high grip levels.
The angle of the camber link will make fine adjustments to the roll center height. Typically the camber link will be no more than
parallel to the suspension arm with the inboard side of the link lower than the outboard side. As the inboard side of the camber link
is moved down, the roll center goes up, stiffening that end of the car. Camber link angle is a good adjustment to help fine tune the
balance of the car to the track by setting the front and rear at slightly different angles.

Sébastien
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:17 PM   #7084
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Question for anyone using the Revtech 17.5 for Blinky class.
Are the stock rotor being used or will the HT rotor be better?

thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by JS View Post
Will be running 17.5 Blinky with a Revtech and Tekin RS.
Here is what I gathered so far:
FDR should be around 3.5-3.7 - Start with 96/52
Timing on the can about 1 notch back from max.
Which rotor should I use with the Revtech? Stock or HT or ?
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:29 PM   #7085
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In my experience the HT rotor was so much better than stock, I question why they even manufacture the stock one. Same goes for my Thunderpower.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:03 PM   #7086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
In my experience the HT rotor was so much better than stock, I question why they even manufacture the stock one. Same goes for my Thunderpower.
+1
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:20 PM   #7087
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Thanks for the feedback guys - time to pick up an HT rotor
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:25 PM   #7088
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got a new body.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ear-Body-190mm
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:40 PM   #7089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JS View Post
Question for anyone using the Revtech 17.5 for Blinky class.
Are the stock rotor being used or will the HT rotor be better?

thanks
After running the revtech with the by and the trinity d3 I want to say the d3 felt smoother and in a tight track it didn't break a sweet at 4.1 fdr
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:26 PM   #7090
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I know this must have been asked already but...

Does anybody recommend the Vertical ball stud setup from Reflex racing (for a TC6)? Did you notice any major improvement to the handling?

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:46 AM   #7091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsta View Post
I know this must have been asked already but...

Does anybody recommend the Vertical ball stud setup from Reflex racing (for a TC6)? Did you notice any major improvement to the handling?

Thanks
The fact that the ball stud is vertical means nothing. But mounting it vertically allows you to make finer adjustments to the height of the ball which you may or may not find works better.

It is definitely a good tuning option.
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:49 AM   #7092
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how fast will it be with a 17.5 trun motor? top end
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:00 AM   #7093
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Dumb question: im new to the tc6 and was looking over my car and comparing to others and noticed my steering knuckles have the ballstud pointing downward (to the ground) and i have seen many others facing upward. I have the tiniest bit of bumpsteer, would flipping the knuckles and re shimming it clear it?
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:24 AM   #7094
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I drove some heats with flipped knuckles but it didnt gave me less bumpsteer.
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:31 AM   #7095
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I drove some heats with flipped knuckles but it didnt gave me less bumpsteer.
Did it feel any different?
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