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Old 07-02-2012, 04:16 AM   #7066
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Hi,

Just checking if any one here has tried the AE 6443 Bleeder Shock Caps 1/10???
Kindly share your experience.

Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:35 AM   #7067
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Thought Id share my mod setup from this past weekend's cash race at Jackson RC. TQd and won Mod. You can find the setup here
Thanks for posting this!

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Thank you! What kind of tool do you use to do this?? A small metric ruler?
I guess when I've seen people talk about measuring uptravel, this is what they're reffering to??

Greatly appreciated.
As mentioned you can use a ride height gauge. An easy way to do this is to set your ride height first (5mm for example). If you want your droop 2mm above right height. Place the ride height gauge under the back of your chassis and place the chassis on the 7mm mark. Then adjust the droop screws until the tires just touch the ground.


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Hi,

Just checking if any one here has tried the AE 6443 Bleeder Shock Caps 1/10???
Kindly share your experience.

Thanks.
These caps have a different thread pattern than the TC6 shocks. However they will work on the TC5 shocks.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:56 AM   #7068
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Some great prices on a TC6 with parts at this link. Other stuff is also for sale

Brand new Associated 12RC5.2 inline, Used TC6, Futaba 4PL, and TP charger


Enjoy your racing
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #7069
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Default RSD021 RSD AE TC6 Double Cardan Joints

$30 including shipping world wide

You get the dcj's + the special wheel adapters.
All brandnew, never been used, in original packing.

Say the word and I'll ship immediately.
Payment via PayPall if possible.
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:44 PM   #7070
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can anyone please explain which inner camber link hole on tower, short or long ball stud and shims under ball stud to use?
i have been using what the team drivers used but i have no idea when to
add or remove shims or choosing the right inner camber positions

also how would i know is my droop or camber is too little or too much?

thanks for your help
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:24 PM   #7071
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I just rebuilt my TC6.1 shocks and noticed they feel a bit 'stuck' when on the car. What should I check in the shocks? The suspension arms themselves are moving freely. I am running the RSD bladders and pistons.

Also, how long should I build the shocks out to?
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:31 PM   #7072
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Hey everyone, I'm looking in getting a gear diff for the front of my tc6.1. I race at medium/low traction open asphalt track. I am stumped on what diff fluid would be good. I want something thick, I'm only really looking for the diff to slip under extreme loads in the corners. example: If I'm racing someone hard into a chicane for position. I was thinking 100,000wt. I have never used a gear diff so I don't know if 100,000wt is too thin. I was looking at OFNA diff lock. I'm afraid that might be waaaay to thick. . If anyone has any insight on this and could help I'd greatly appreciate it.
Chassis: AE Tc6.1
Class: USVTA

Thanks!
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:05 PM   #7073
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Originally Posted by Biggie85 View Post
Hey everyone, I'm looking in getting a gear diff for the front of my tc6.1. I race at medium/low traction open asphalt track. I am stumped on what diff fluid would be good. I want something thick, I'm only really looking for the diff to slip under extreme loads in the corners. example: If I'm racing someone hard into a chicane for position. I was thinking 100,000wt. I have never used a gear diff so I don't know if 100,000wt is too thin. I was looking at OFNA diff lock. I'm afraid that might be waaaay to thick. . If anyone has any insight on this and could help I'd greatly appreciate it.
Chassis: AE Tc6.1
Class: USVTA

Thanks!
I know in 17.5 blinky we were running 35wt shock oil, seems to be working fine for me. You could try that and see how that works for you. A local fast guy is running 1000 cst. That should be an okay starting point.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:55 PM   #7074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3 View Post
I just rebuilt my TC6.1 shocks and noticed they feel a bit 'stuck' when on the car. What should I check in the shocks? The suspension arms themselves are moving freely. I am running the RSD bladders and pistons.

Also, how long should I build the shocks out to?
Check the O rings. They swell over time. IIRC I think I did mine to 63mm from the top of the cap to the bottom of the shock end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggie85 View Post
Hey everyone, I'm looking in getting a gear diff for the front of my tc6.1. I race at medium/low traction open asphalt track. I am stumped on what diff fluid would be good. I want something thick, I'm only really looking for the diff to slip under extreme loads in the corners. example: If I'm racing someone hard into a chicane for position. I was thinking 100,000wt. I have never used a gear diff so I don't know if 100,000wt is too thin. I was looking at OFNA diff lock. I'm afraid that might be waaaay to thick. . If anyone has any insight on this and could help I'd greatly appreciate it.
Chassis: AE Tc6.1
Class: USVTA

Thanks!
If you want to go with a front gear diff, get the thickest oil you can find. A couple companies do 500K, and I think ive seen exceed with 1 and 2 million cst.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:47 PM   #7075
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Check the O rings. They swell over time. IIRC I think I did mine to 63mm from the top of the cap to the bottom of the shock end.



If you want to go with a front gear diff, get the thickest oil you can find. A couple companies do 500K, and I think ive seen exceed with 1 and 2 million cst.
Thanks, Quick question, do you mean 500k WT or CST? Kyosho has 500k wt. diff fluid.
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:14 PM   #7076
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The Traxxas 500k (part #5039) is often the easiest one to find, and runs six or seven bucks.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:53 PM   #7077
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I finally took the dive and entered the world of on-road sedan.
Picked up the TC6.1 and waiting for its arrival.
Been researching the thread and had a few questions for you guys.

Will be running 17.5 Blinky with a Revtech and Tekin RS.
Here is what I gathered so far:
FDR should be around 3.5-3.7 - Start with 96/52
Timing on the can about 1 notch back from max.
Which rotor should I use with the Revtech? Stock or HT or ?

Servo - I have a 1258 I can use or will the 1251 be a better choice?

thanks
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:11 AM   #7078
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Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
can anyone please explain which inner camber link hole on tower, short or long ball stud and shims under ball stud to use?
i have been using what the team drivers used but i have no idea when to
add or remove shims or choosing the right inner camber positions

also how would i know is my droop or camber is too little or too much?

thanks for your help
Anyone?
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:08 AM   #7079
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Anyone?
I would start with whatever link position you ran on the shock tower (1/3 are V1, 7 is V3), and shims to make it close to what you ran on the tower, and then go form there.
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:59 AM   #7080
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Servo - I have a 1258 I can use or will the 1251 be a better choice?
thanks
I ran the 1258 fine in stock, but found the glitching problem when running mod with a spectrum radio. Switched to a 1251 and the problem went away. The 1251 must draw less power from the bec. I like the 1251 and run it in every car I own.
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