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Old 06-11-2012, 07:16 AM   #6916
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On carpet 64 seems to be the way to go. As stated 64p gives finer increments in gearing changes and where I race people are all running it. Makes it easier to find a replacement if I need a different pinion or strip a spur and forget to bring a spare.
But, it also makes it easier to strip a spur.

I have been running the 48p gears in my tc6 with no problem. I had alot of 48p gears from my offroad cars so I just stayed with the 48. Alot of people told me I should switch to the 64p gears because it allows finer gearing adjustment. I haven't run into a situation yet that I needed to be in between gears on the 48p. But I have seen a number of stripped 64p spurs around the track. The teeth are so small you need to set the mesh perfect.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:42 PM   #6917
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But, it also makes it easier to strip a spur.

I have been running the 48p gears in my tc6 with no problem. I had alot of 48p gears from my offroad cars so I just stayed with the 48. Alot of people told me I should switch to the 64p gears because it allows finer gearing adjustment. I haven't run into a situation yet that I needed to be in between gears on the 48p. But I have seen a number of stripped 64p spurs around the track. The teeth are so small you need to set the mesh perfect.
Same hear, a lot of my old offroad stuff is 48 and I have a few 48p pinions laying around. That in the concern of stripping makes me want to stick with 48 for now. The car will be ran in a parking lot track and I also plan to run it up and down the street occasionally. Neither of those are as clean as carpet. And if carpet can chew them up easily then I should really avoid them for street/parking lot use.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:28 PM   #6918
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I run 48p on all my cars. Onroad or Offroad.
I even converted my Tamiya F104pro.

Makes it simple and easy.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:02 PM   #6919
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But, it also makes it easier to strip a spur.

I have been running the 48p gears in my tc6 with no problem. I had alot of 48p gears from my offroad cars so I just stayed with the 48. Alot of people told me I should switch to the 64p gears because it allows finer gearing adjustment. I haven't run into a situation yet that I needed to be in between gears on the 48p. But I have seen a number of stripped 64p spurs around the track. The teeth are so small you need to set the mesh perfect.
No doubt. For people who can't set proper mesh 48p is the way to go. The finer gearing matters to me but what works for me doesn't work for everyone and replacing a $4 part once a season or two isn't enough to dissuade me from using them. Some don't want the hassle and I can't blame them.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:51 AM   #6920
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Hi Guys.

Im going to join the 13.5T stock class here in Norway soon. And i am looking for a new touring car. Is the TC6.1 a good car? Pros/cons?

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Old 06-12-2012, 07:09 AM   #6921
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Hi Guys.

Im going to join the 13.5T stock class here in Norway soon. And i am looking for a new touring car. Is the TC6.1 a good car? Pros/cons?

Regards
John
I think it is just as good as any. Parts are easily accessible . It may take a little tuning to adapt for your driving style but once it's dialed it's really fast and easy to work on. IMO . I have 2
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:13 AM   #6922
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Hey guy maybe someone can help me out .. I'm lookin for some aluminum shims , maybe a kit of shims with various sizes from .5mm to 2mm to widen my tc6.1 to help with traction rolling. I found some on superior hobbies but it is out of stock and they don't have a date when they will be restocked and my local hobby shop can't find any. Thanks for reading . An also if anyone has any helpful hints about preventing traction rolling im taking any suggestions as I'm have a huge issue with this.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:50 AM   #6923
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Hey guy maybe someone can help me out .. I'm lookin for some aluminum shims , maybe a kit of shims with various sizes from .5mm to 2mm to widen my tc6.1 to help with traction rolling. I found some on superior hobbies but it is out of stock and they don't have a date when they will be restocked and my local hobby shop can't find any. Thanks for reading . An also if anyone has any helpful hints about preventing traction rolling im taking any suggestions as I'm have a huge issue with this.
You can try the bulkhead shims for the 12R5.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:55 AM   #6924
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Originally Posted by AEcarpetracer View Post
Hey guy maybe someone can help me out .. I'm lookin for some aluminum shims , maybe a kit of shims with various sizes from .5mm to 2mm to widen my tc6.1 to help with traction rolling. I found some on superior hobbies but it is out of stock and they don't have a date when they will be restocked and my local hobby shop can't find any. Thanks for reading . An also if anyone has any helpful hints about preventing traction rolling im taking any suggestions as I'm have a huge issue with this.
Put a bead of glue around the outside edge of the tires. It helps....everyone is doing it at the track I raced at this past weekend.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:29 PM   #6925
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How do some of you guys mount your batteries in the chassis. I thought about using velcro between the batt and chassis instead of tape. That would be cheaper/reusable and easier to mount or remove the battery between charges. But is or would that be legal for racing? I dont know if tracks would allow it.

My other concern is that the velcro may raise the battery slightly higher, effecting handling and weight distribution.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:33 PM   #6926
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How do some of you guys mount your batteries in the chassis. I thought about using velcro between the batt and chassis instead of tape. That would be cheaper/reusable and easier to mount or remove the battery between charges. But is or would that be legal for racing? I dont know if tracks would allow it.

My other concern is that the velcro may raise the battery slightly higher, effecting handling and weight distribution.
I`m very new to the on-road scene and had a velcro strap in my car . A fellow racer told me to be careful when using velcro as you can tighten it to much and tweak the chassis . I switched to tape for that reason and also lowers the battery .
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:43 PM   #6927
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Originally Posted by nitrous36 View Post
How do some of you guys mount your batteries in the chassis. I thought about using velcro between the batt and chassis instead of tape. That would be cheaper/reusable and easier to mount or remove the battery between charges. But is or would that be legal for racing? I dont know if tracks would allow it.

My other concern is that the velcro may raise the battery slightly higher, effecting handling and weight distribution.
don't run the tape under the battery. Run one piece on one end and one on the other. Just run about an inch of tape around the carbon tab and stick it to the tape. You are just making a small loop to go around the carbon tape holder. Place the battery and put one side of the tape down and then run the other side of the tape over that one. If you are slick fold one end of the tape over so you have a pull tab on one strip. This way you can easily pull the tape to get to the battery. You also won't have to re-tape every time you change a battery. last thing, don't crank down on the tape. you don't want slack but you also don't want to tweak the chassis.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:52 PM   #6928
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I know the tape goes over the battery. Im talking about using velcro under the battery.

I thought of using regular masking tape over the battery. Then I considered cutting some velcro squares. With the hook side on the and loop side on the bottom of the battery. But Im concerned it would raise the batter too high and/or wont be allowed.

Then after some searching, I saw on page 46 this thread that some guys use velcro straps across the top of the batt where the tape would otherwise be.

Last edited by nitrous36; 06-12-2012 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:16 PM   #6929
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Put a bead of glue around the outside edge of the tires. It helps....everyone is doing it at the track I raced at this past weekend.
bingo
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:20 PM   #6930
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bingo
Haha this is the guy that taught me to put a bead of glue around the outside edge. Thanks Darkside/Battman!
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