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Old 06-07-2012, 04:44 AM   #6901
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Originally Posted by Big Features View Post
No, I like the car a bit wider. Helps with the edgyness. The car has so much steering and this smooths it out, unlike moving the front arms forward. If seen guys running the original arm mounts with too little shimming, causing the blades to wear and the suspension to bind.
Thanks, I might give that a try at the next race.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:18 AM   #6902
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Originally Posted by Luke Hobson View Post
Personally, I'm not very impressed with the fit of all the parts.
seems the tolerances are way off.

Don't get me wrong, I quite like the car. But unless your willing to work at getting things to fit right, I wouldn't reccomend it.

Just my 2p
I know this as an older post reply but I've just finished building my 6.1 - have been racing my TC6 in Novice and soon moving up to 540 or Stock. I've had many hard hits but broken nothing. It's a tough car - the drivesaft chatter is a bit annoying but sounds common with all makes. The rear tow shims are identical but one side seems to have more toe than the other - Thats an easy fix. The arm mounts move very slightly after a few runs - a bit more if there's an impact. I think it's a very good system as it actually absorbs a lot of shock that otherwise would break something.

My TC6.1 is even better (havent run it yet) but everything seems to be aligned very well and there is no slop in the hub carriers/c arms etc. Actually no slop anywhere. The gear diff belt ring is a bit wavy/warped but won't cause any dramas to the belt. It hasn't leaked but will only know after driving. It won't be hard to remedy if it does leak. Pretty sure all the reports of leaking diffs are due to poor gasket alignment or out of sequence/overtightened screws. One of the short black ball studs hex wasn't machined and wont accept any hex drivers. Also 2 of the roll bar rod mounts were slightly small and gripped the arm and required a little work with the dremel to open it up slightly. I actually attempted to resolve it by squeezing it with pliers slightly as per the rod ends but they're harder and broke 2 but I already had 2 spare. From my experience AE and Losi customer service is top rate. Any dramas with a kit has always been rectified.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #6903
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Has anyone had a problem with the bearings fitting too tight in the 6.1 steering blocks? I just opened 2 packages and fitting the inner bearing on both of the right blocks was extremely tight, to the point where the bearing would not spin freely. Both of the left blocks seemed fine.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:47 PM   #6904
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Originally Posted by midse View Post
I know this as an older post reply but I've just finished building my 6.1 - have been racing my TC6 in Novice and soon moving up to 540 or Stock. I've had many hard hits but broken nothing. It's a tough car - the drivesaft chatter is a bit annoying but sounds common with all makes. The rear tow shims are identical but one side seems to have more toe than the other -
I'd be willing to bet u have a bent inner hinge pin. I had the same thing happen. Everything seemed nice and free. Ended up that the hinge pin was bent like a Z. ANY impact, the car needs to be gone over and reset up. You'd be amazed at the stuff u find when u take it all apart.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:26 PM   #6905
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I'd be willing to bet u have a bent inner hinge pin. I had the same thing happen. Everything seemed nice and free. Ended up that the hinge pin was bent like a Z. ANY impact, the car needs to be gone over and reset up. You'd be amazed at the stuff u find when u take it all apart.
+1 KH is right. I have found a myriad of what may seem like small things out of whack after what I thought was a minor impact. After going through the car, I will also put the car back into the HUDY to check all of the suspension settings.
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:30 PM   #6906
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Bob Stellflue - Reedy TC Race of Champions - 13.5

Eric Albano - Reedy TC Race of Champions - Modified
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:22 PM   #6907
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anybody have trtouble with front spool on 6.1
when tighten outdrive onr side bearing wont turn baked out screw and tried to put in car cant hardly get between bulkheads any help
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:56 PM   #6908
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Anyone know a release date yet for the Exotek TC6 Chassis?
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:39 PM   #6909
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Im new to the brushless motors. Im considering the 17.5T for my TC6 im building. What does a 17.5T BL compare to in terms of a brushed motor? Is it the equivalent of a 27T, 19T or something more like a 13?

Will 17.5 BL be too much? I read a few places that its a good starting point. But then I also keep reading that a BL motor will blow the doors off anything brushed regardless the number of turns the brushed motor has. Is a 17.5 ok or should I look for something slower? Any advice appreciated.
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:46 AM   #6910
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what rims off set do i need and tires to play in the street?
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:08 PM   #6911
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Originally Posted by nitrous36 View Post
Im new to the brushless motors. Im considering the 17.5T for my TC6 im building. What does a 17.5T BL compare to in terms of a brushed motor? Is it the equivalent of a 27T, 19T or something more like a 13?

Will 17.5 BL be too much? I read a few places that its a good starting point. But then I also keep reading that a BL motor will blow the doors off anything brushed regardless the number of turns the brushed motor has. Is a 17.5 ok or should I look for something slower? Any advice appreciated.
17.5 will be perfect for you

Brush-less requires almost no maintenance, just desired roll-out for the track while watching heat stay under 170 depending on motor brand

For my Revetech 17.5 with lot's but not full timing I ran 54/96 and speed was competitive for 17.5 Blinky
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:21 PM   #6912
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17.5 will be perfect for you

Brush-less requires almost no maintenance, just desired roll-out for the track while watching heat stay under 170 depending on motor brand

For my Revetech 17.5 with lot's but not full timing I ran 54/96 and speed was competitive for 17.5 Blinky

Im guessing that BL motors react different to gearing than brushed. Are brushless more forgiving and tolerant to a broader range of gearing choices than brushed was. Only asking in general here. What is the acceptable/good range of ratios for 17.5 T? (ex: 4.56-6.25)

Im using the 87T spur that came in the kit. But this way Ill know what pinion sizes I can safely use with the 17.5. Googling now. But input on ratios from anyone that raced brushless for a while is greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:34 AM   #6913
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Originally Posted by nitrous36 View Post
Im guessing that BL motors react different to gearing than brushed. Are brushless more forgiving and tolerant to a broader range of gearing choices than brushed was. Only asking in general here. What is the acceptable/good range of ratios for 17.5 T? (ex: 4.56-6.25)

Im using the 87T spur that came in the kit. But this way Ill know what pinion sizes I can safely use with the 17.5. Googling now. But input on ratios from anyone that raced brushless for a while is greatly appreciated.
Brushed is history, so I'd close that book for now... My rollout for my TC6 with my 17.5 revtech was I think 3.5 which is low but it worked for me with under 170 temps. You'll need to run 64 pitch gears to fine tune your rollout and I ran 54/96 with my car

17.5 is really a great class and typically labeled stock. I had the most fun in 17.5 during my last RC racing adventures.

13.5 is super stock and modified is obviously open motor.

87 spur is used only with modified. In mod I ran 20/87 in mod

With 13.5 turn I think guys we're like 44/96 or so depending on your motor brand

Have fun, Good luck

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Old 06-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #6914
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Thanks for the info. Very knowledgable. I keep hearing ppl throw 64p around in this thread. So no one is running 48p gears in their TC6? When I was last into RC, 64 pitch wasnt common in 1:10 scale. Usually 1:12 and smaller had it. But otherwise 48 pitch was the way to go(for larger scales), unless you wanted or had to have the extra tunability of 64P gearing.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:03 AM   #6915
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Thanks for the info. Very knowledgable. I keep hearing ppl throw 64p around in this thread. So no one is running 48p gears in their TC6? When I was last into RC, 64 pitch wasnt common in 1:10 scale. Usually 1:12 and smaller had it. But otherwise 48 pitch was the way to go(for larger scales), unless you wanted or had to have the extra tunability of 64P gearing.
On carpet 64 seems to be the way to go. As stated 64p gives finer increments in gearing changes and where I race people are all running it. Makes it easier to find a replacement if I need a different pinion or strip a spur and forget to bring a spare.
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