20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
05-08-2012, 06:04 PM
#6721
At Leisure... no. We have two 6.1's, one stock and the other has the Reflex dcj's. While the dcj's make it look/feel nice on your car stand, lap times are the same for me with either car - no difference in on-track feel either. Both have identical setups/gearing/etc., the only difference is the dcj's. Maybe on a smaller, tighter track (or on carpet?) it may make a slight difference... but I'd either save the money or spend it elsewhere. Loose side note, remember that most people are looking at the full-lock wheel chatter with the car up on a stand and with no load on the suspension... hard to see what's really happening with the car on-track and at speed in a corner.
How much time is spent at full left/right anyway? A good entry line will eliminate a lot of that on a large flowing track. Full wheel lock is often after you've either not slowed down enough and/or entered the corner wrong - the point of no return.
How much time is spent at full left/right anyway? A good entry line will eliminate a lot of that on a large flowing track. Full wheel lock is often after you've either not slowed down enough and/or entered the corner wrong - the point of no return.
Just because it feels better on the stand doesn't mean its actually faster on the track. I've done the same comparisons with the TC6 designer, Bob Stellflue at AE. If you look at the shape of the TC6.1 caster blocks, they were molded with DCJs in mind as a future option. AE has other competing projects that take up R&D and manufacturing priorities. DCJs can be problematic to manufacture. Materials, design, manufacturing tolerances, and parts support have to be considered. Especially when the design is local and the manufacturing is not. I wouldn't count AE out of the DCJ market, just wouldn't look for them in the immediate future.
05-08-2012, 06:07 PM
#6722
I was just reading the comments below about the front wheels chattering when turning. I was trying to figure out how to get rid of this just last night. I am putting together a new TC6 kit and as I was testing things I noticed that it had some really bad wheel chatter when the wheels were turned to full lock. I couldn't find anything wrong and assumed it was the CVDs causing it. But I also have a TC6.1 that I already had and that car does not have any wheel chatter at all. The front wheels stay perfectly smooth. Is there a difference in the CVDs from the TC6 to the TC6.1? I didn't think there was a difference, but I am pretty new to these cars and on road in general. I know I would freak out if one of my off road cars has that bad of a vibration when turning.
I'm trying to figure out why one of my cars has such severe chatter and the other has none at all. Something seems weird. I bought the TC6 kit from someone who had partially built it but never got around to finishing it so the CVD's were already assembled when I got it. I'm wondering if they did something wrong when they put them together since my other car is so smooth.
One thing I did different on the smooth TC6.1 was when I built the CVDs I left the set screw out of it since it had the snap ring to retain the pin and I put a piece of shrink tube over the snap ring as added security. This is something I did on my offroad cars to help reduce wear of the pin and joint in the CVD. Im wondering if removing the set screw and letting the pin move a little more free in the joint would help cut down the vibration. Anyone ever find a solution for this? Or maybe a way to make it less severe. I dont really want to spend a bunch of money on fancy aftermarket CVDs, Im just planning to use this for a VTA car. It just bugs me as it is.
I'm trying to figure out why one of my cars has such severe chatter and the other has none at all. Something seems weird. I bought the TC6 kit from someone who had partially built it but never got around to finishing it so the CVD's were already assembled when I got it. I'm wondering if they did something wrong when they put them together since my other car is so smooth.
One thing I did different on the smooth TC6.1 was when I built the CVDs I left the set screw out of it since it had the snap ring to retain the pin and I put a piece of shrink tube over the snap ring as added security. This is something I did on my offroad cars to help reduce wear of the pin and joint in the CVD. Im wondering if removing the set screw and letting the pin move a little more free in the joint would help cut down the vibration. Anyone ever find a solution for this? Or maybe a way to make it less severe. I dont really want to spend a bunch of money on fancy aftermarket CVDs, Im just planning to use this for a VTA car. It just bugs me as it is.
Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.
05-08-2012, 06:12 PM
#6723
The cvas are different from the TC6 to the TC6.1. Axles different size and bones slightly different length, not sure actual measurment. The biggest difference though is change in vendor, seems to be better tolerances on the new cvas.
Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.
Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.
Mike
05-08-2012, 06:37 PM
#6724
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
The cvas are different from the TC6 to the TC6.1. Axles different size and bones slightly different length, not sure actual measurment. The biggest difference though is change in vendor, seems to be better tolerances on the new cvas.
Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.
Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.
05-08-2012, 06:49 PM
#6725
At Leisure... no. We have two 6.1's, one stock and the other has the Reflex dcj's. While the dcj's make it look/feel nice on your car stand, lap times are the same for me with either car - no difference in on-track feel either. Both have identical setups/gearing/etc., the only difference is the dcj's. Maybe on a smaller, tighter track (or on carpet?) it may make a slight difference... but I'd either save the money or spend it elsewhere. Loose side note, remember that most people are looking at the full-lock wheel chatter with the car up on a stand and with no load on the suspension... hard to see what's really happening with the car on-track and at speed in a corner.
How much time is spent at full left/right anyway? A good entry line will eliminate a lot of that on a large flowing track. Full wheel lock is often after you've either not slowed down enough and/or entered the corner wrong - the point of no return.
How much time is spent at full left/right anyway? A good entry line will eliminate a lot of that on a large flowing track. Full wheel lock is often after you've either not slowed down enough and/or entered the corner wrong - the point of no return.
05-08-2012, 09:15 PM
#6726
Not yet, the car's not perfect. Trying to keep up with all those pesky Sputniks at my track... you and Dom have those Russian engineering marvels running really well.
There are alot of TC6.1's running really good at the track though! Jelich finally made it out for once and looked like the world-class stud that he is... crazy. Reedy Open Mod contender fsho!
05-10-2012, 09:42 AM
#6728
Check the Novak website for gear ratio chart, for suggestions on starting point.
05-10-2012, 10:29 AM
#6731
Onroad track 220x75x220x125
here is a video someone posted of this past weekend, to give you better visual idea of size
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX4LX...ature=youtu.be
05-10-2012, 10:03 PM
#6735
I started TC with 3.5t on a mid sized indoor track 
. A strong motor is no problem as long as you can control your finger...
. A strong motor is no problem as long as you can control your finger...