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Old 04-25-2012, 08:33 PM   #6661
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[QUOTE=jorgesimes;10652314]I could elaborate here for 10 pages, but in the end it's all on practice. So there's nothing like you try it.

Thank you for your answer. Stock position is 7B and 2B which is where I am at now. I shall try the shorter steering link position A then. From p.26 its a big jump in Ackerman angle right?
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:49 AM   #6662
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I could elaborate here for 10 pages, but in the end it's all on practice. So there's nothing like you try it.



it's all on page 26 of the manual of the TC6.1 and on page 23 of the TC6, if you need more help say it.
Thanks buddy, I found it, I will go thru it and will ask if I've question again, thanks
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:23 AM   #6663
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Hello,
I just got a TC6.1 ft and will be racing it indoors on carpet in the 17.5 blinky class.
I saw that Amain is selling an associated set of ceramic bearings for the TC6. Are these the same bearings that are in the factory team tc6.1?

If not, then
Will the car be any faster if I switch to ceramic bearings?
Are there any other advantages to the ceramic bearings other than they turn easier?
In your opinion, is the $70 cost worth it?
what is better for indoor carpet, metal sealed or rubber sealed bearings?


thanks
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:40 AM   #6664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_speed View Post
Hello,
I just got a TC6.1 ft and will be racing it indoors on carpet in the 17.5 blinky class.
I saw that Amain is selling an associated set of ceramic bearings for the TC6. Are these the same bearings that are in the factory team tc6.1?

If not, then
Will the car be any faster if I switch to ceramic bearings?
Are there any other advantages to the ceramic bearings other than they turn easier?
In your opinion, is the $70 cost worth it?
what is better for indoor carpet, metal sealed or rubber sealed bearings?


thanks
No, the 6.1 does not come with ceramic bearings. In my opinion, the cost of ceramic bearings is not worth it. Its hard to notice any performance difference at all. Ceramics are also brittle, meaning that with a good board hit they are capable of breaking the bearings inside and rendering them useless. I use standard steel bearing from Avid (cost a buck a piece) and they work great. I use metal shielded on carpet, and rubber sealed on outdoor tracks.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:06 PM   #6665
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Default Zeppin chassis

Ok, i've tried the Zeppin chassis i've been asking about few pages back.
It actually works better than the stock. I've always had a traction problem on the rear on a certain spot of the track i'm often going to. The problem doesn't exist anymore, it seams like it have more flex so the rear end is less rigid and the car turns way better than before. I love the battery tray solution, it requires a coupple of spacers ( not included while in the instruction it's clearly explained that with the new 6000mAh batt's it is required to add few) but these are missing in the package. The chassisi is also few millimeters narrower, this solution is better for asphalt because it avoid the tipical side scratches and eventual fiber delamination of the chassis. There is a major flaw though: the steering linkage cannot be placed on the rear position, it touches the battery causing the chassis to bind, there's no way to avoid it. I've tried to fix this eliminating the center plastic piece that holds the battery in position, using instead a coupple of plastic spacers but this allow the battery to slide further inside the chassis causing the belt to rub on the battery.
Added some spacers to the euter "wings" of the battery tray to slide the battery further out, but the car on the Hudy balancing tool resulted uneven in balance, so i had to come back to the solution of placing the battery in the original position with the stock battery spacer and use the steering linkage in the forward position
That isn't so bad for me, i love to have ton's of steering and the forward position seems to suits better for my driving style. It sucks not to have the choice offered from the original layout though.

I'm positive about triyng also the upcoming Exotek's chassis. Can't wait to put my hands on it.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:14 PM   #6666
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What about the new rsd chassis comming out its 14 mm narrower and will have dual bellcrank steering from the 417
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:00 PM   #6667
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What about the new rsd chassis comming out its 14 mm narrower and will have dual bellcrank steering from the 417
I pre-ordered the RSD6 chassis and can't wait to get it. If you look at the spy photo of the exotek chassis you can see there is no plastic part for steering this means they will also have a dual ballcrank steering and some other stuff, look how many screws there are in front of the chassis and you can see a Yokomo or Tamiya like A-arm holder so the bulkheads should be different too
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:43 AM   #6668
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Hello, what is the fix for removing the slop in the springs. When checking droop the spring isn't putting pressure against the retainer. No other TC I've ever had has had this issue. Thanks
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:30 PM   #6669
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Hello, what is the fix for removing the slop in the springs. When checking droop the spring isn't putting pressure against the retainer. No other TC I've ever had has had this issue. Thanks
Stock springs?

What is your shock length end to end?

When building my car there was no slop in the springs when using kit droop settings.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:11 PM   #6670
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Silver front. Green rear. 64.5 length. I'll check to see if I can shorten it up. Running in the 3b holes also.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:24 AM   #6671
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Hello, what is the fix for removing the slop in the springs. When checking droop the spring isn't putting pressure against the retainer. No other TC I've ever had has had this issue. Thanks
How are you checking droop? If you're using the stock gauge, I was always under the impression that you wanted the shocks unmounted anyway while checking droop. Being the lazy everything assembled/up-travel checking person I am.. could be wrong with that.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:07 AM   #6672
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I check droop like the instructions say. Shock length is fine for a 5mm droop also. My tc6.1 isn't the only 1like this at my track. When I pick my car off the table I can move the springs up and down. I'm going to try tc6 arms and see if it's the arm location. Rick, any thoughts on this. Dominic Favorito. Thanks
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:32 PM   #6673
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Questions?? 4PL

I have a couple FHSS receivers I've been using from my 3PL and heard the
4PL is compatible with these recievers and has some extra features I want to use since I race touring cars.

The only thing keeping me from getting the 4PL is this issue I hear with the steering stops breaking.

Does anyone have a picture of these steering stops inside the controller they mind to share??

Are these stops something I can reinforce to make them stronger or is there a way to replace them if they do break??
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:00 PM   #6674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasagnaCat View Post
How are you checking droop? If you're using the stock gauge, I was always under the impression that you wanted the shocks unmounted anyway while checking droop. Being the lazy everything assembled/up-travel checking person I am.. could be wrong with that.
With Droop you leave you shocks attached, you are probably thinking of measuring the downstops on the car when is where you detach the shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChampRC View Post
I have a couple FHSS receivers I've been using from my 3PL and heard the
4PL is compatible with these recievers and has some extra features I want to use since I race touring cars.

The only thing keeping me from getting the 4PL is this issue I hear with the steering stops breaking.

Does anyone have a picture of these steering stops inside the controller they mind to share??

Are these stops something I can reinforce to make them stronger or is there a way to replace them if they do break??
I have the 4PL and haven't had any issues with it to date. I wouldn't worry about that problem. I absolutely love the radio and it is a great investment!
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:28 PM   #6675
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With Droop you leave you shocks attached, you are probably thinking of measuring the downstops on the car when is where you detach the shocks.
From the Olly Jeffries TC6 build tips article....

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ips/index.html

"Before fitting the shocks you need to set droop. Make sure the droop is set before fitting the shocks. The shocks can put pressure on the suspension arm, which then makes it difficult to set the droop accurately. I always set droop without shocks fitted."

I know how I set everything on my own rides, so on some level I probably shouldn't be in this discussion. Every time the droop/uptravel/downstops discussion starts it seems like nobody can agree upon what seems like varying shades of phrasing for adjusting the same thing(?)

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