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Old 04-13-2012, 02:22 PM   #6556
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bring your car to your local track and have someone take a look at your car and maybe there are experienced people there who can help you
Thank you and for the record this is not my first car I have been in this hobby for nearly 20 years, but thnank you very much for your advise, I plan on trying that.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:24 PM   #6557
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Just do a little filing, it's not that big a deal.

I finally got some 6.1 caster blocks and the steering knuckle is a real tight fit inside. Basically the caster block is not tall enough. It looks as if the ends are pinched together; you can see that the top and bottom are not parallel. I chose to modify the steering knuckle instead of the caster block because I figure the caster block is more likely to break and I don't want to have to modify them every time.

So a little hand-fitting is a pain in the ass, and holy heck are the new caster blocks sloppy. But that's what we get for not buying an Xray
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:27 PM   #6558
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thanks, but the bushings don't pass the c-hub enough to keep the ball stud flang and B/H crew from hitting the hub.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:28 PM   #6559
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is the new c hubs as sloppy as the ones there where included in the kit?

no big deal but would prefer a tighter fit, did put some ca glue in the hole before i installed the hinge pin, and drilled a hole under the hub and put a set screw in, the front of the car is rock solid now
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:45 PM   #6560
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The inserts are a tight fit in the block, all of the slop is between hinge pin and insert. So a set screw would help, but I have not gone to the trouble yet.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:47 PM   #6561
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thanks, but the bushings don't pass the c-hub enough to keep the ball stud flang and B/H crew from hitting the hub.
I didn't have that problem, but I forgot to mention that I did chamfer the edges of the bushing hole a bit with an x-acto. The bushings were a tight fit in the c-hub before doing that.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:49 PM   #6562
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I didn't have that problem, but I forgot to mention that I did chamfer the edges of the bushing hole a bit with an x-acto. The bushings were a tight fit in the c-hub before doing that.
YEP did that too. thanks
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:05 PM   #6563
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I ordered them yesterday at gshobby.com.
I am very curious as to how long it takes to get them.
Thanks for the link, will try that shop out too
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:45 PM   #6564
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The inserts are a tight fit in the block, all of the slop is between hinge pin and insert. So a set screw would help, but I have not gone to the trouble yet.
You should, Steve. That bit of yours I borrowed at the track works perfectly with a 2mm set screw.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:41 PM   #6565
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YEP did that too. thanks
Ok, I've been following this for a couple of days now and I have a couple of questions...
Do you have the turnbuckle links connected to the steering knuckle? I ask because the ball ends are a bit tight and should be polished with some Scotchbright prior to assembly.
Was there any binding in the c-hub without the BH screw and/or ball screwed in? Like the c-hub is clamping the knuckle.
The screws usually need to tap into the plastic which will provide enough tension to keep the screws from backing out of not fully seated. (dont fully tighten them until the parts break in)
This may seem like an obvious no brainer but did you insert the bushings from the inside of the c-hubs? (no disrespect intended)
I've built a lot of cars over the last 20 years or so, myself and these are just some of my observations while building my TC6 last year.

The bushings are for locating the screws but may not extend beyond the c-hub opening otherwise there will be extra play in the steering knuckle once the plastic has worn in requiring shims.
"Better tight from the start than sloppy for life" momma always said.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:14 AM   #6566
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Ok, I've been following this for a couple of days now and I have a couple of questions...
Do you have the turnbuckle links connected to the steering knuckle? I ask because the ball ends are a bit tight and should be polished with some Scotchbright prior to assembly.
Was there any binding in the c-hub without the BH screw and/or ball screwed in? Like the c-hub is clamping the knuckle.No
The screws usually need to tap into the plastic which will provide enough tension to keep the screws from backing out of not fully seated. (dont fully tighten them until the parts break in) if break in is the solution then why didn't Don say that when I called on monday instead he agreed that the bushing should go beyond the c-hub.
This may seem like an obvious no brainer but did you insert the bushings from the inside of the c-hubs? (no disrespect intended)Yes they are, though of that one too.
Their lack of response and commitment to the customer is a real troubling thought. None has has had the engineer call me as I was promised.
I've built a lot of cars over the last 20 years or so, myself and these are just some of my observations while building my TC6 last year.

The bushings are for locating the screws but may not extend beyond the c-hub opening otherwise there will be extra play in the steering knuckle once the plastic has worn in requiring shims.
"Better tight from the start than sloppy for life" momma always said.
Thnak for the input I think I will be better off bying an x-ray and eating a loss by selling this paper weight.If break in was the answer then why didn't Don say so on Monday intead he agreed with me that the busing were too short. No real support from Asscoiated at all.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:33 AM   #6567
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Hey Hairy, Im sorry to hear you are having problems with your TC6.1. I personally dont believe you should sand a c-hub. I notice the same Issue on my car and all I did was squeez the ball ends and did the trick. Im working on replaceing all the ball joints with the gold ones just to free everything up. Look forward to racing you again Bro.....

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Old 04-14-2012, 05:03 PM   #6568
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I seem to have a lot of play between the bushings and front hubs (the diameter on the hub is greater than the outer diameter of the bushing) Which part is intended to rotate? Could I glue the bushing to the hub?
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:23 AM   #6569
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Thnak for the input I think I will be better off bying an x-ray and eating a loss by selling this paper weight.If break in was the answer then why didn't Don say so on Monday intead he agreed with me that the busing were too short. No real support from Asscoiated at all.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:47 AM   #6570
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What 17.5t motor is everyone running or recommend? Is the LRP x12 the best one out there? How does the Thunder Power Z3R-S compare to the x12?
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