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Old 04-11-2012, 04:52 AM   #6511
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Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
Are there any plans for a TC6.2 with the new vertical ballstuds and shock towers? A running upgrade would be nice - by that I mean new kits would have the new parts.
Look here: Team Associated TC6 Thread

Only option parts!
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:02 AM   #6512
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Are there any plans for a TC6.2 with the new vertical ballstuds and shock towers? A running upgrade would be nice - by that I mean new kits would have the new parts.
There are no plans to include the new parts in kits in the near future.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:03 PM   #6513
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Tried this technique 2 weeks ago over 2 days of testing and yes, it works fantastic. Started removing pairs on the rear top deck first (I used washers and shock o-rings under screws) to keep some tension on topdeck and adjust to desired chassis flex to suit track requirements. Most notably, picked up alot of corner speed and more planted handling characteristic from the car through out race course. The top deck flip, as mentioned works well also. I am sure the use of this technique depends on the surface you are racing on. (currently using on outdoor asphalt).
Sorry, but what do you mean by "removing pairs"?
That means removing a pair of screws at a time? In other words two screws at a time?

Do you mean that you use washers and shock o-rings under the remaining screws?
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:14 PM   #6514
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It's actually the other way round. It's generally the top-deck that causes tweak; if you had no top-deck, the car would never tweak. This is why tub chassis cars were popular for a while, and why Schumacher made the Axis2 with turnbuckles instead of a topdeck (yes really!).

So ideally you want a fairly stiff chassis, and a flexy top-deck, as this reduces the chance of the car tweaking. This is exactly what the TC6 comes with (no cutouts in the chassis and a skinny topdeck), and in my experience it hardly ever tweaks. Cutting the topdeck will add flex and reduce the chance of tweak further.

Removing screws (apart from the ones into the layshaft bulkhead, which everyone removes) may increase the chance of tweak, as you've got less screws holding the top-deck where it belongs. But not tried this myself.
As to "apart from the ones into the layshaft bulkhead, which everyone removes". Which ones would that be? The three screws 31530 M3x5mm bhcs in the topdeck? Or only the two on the spur gear bulkhead?
If not, which ones then?

Last edited by Kensei; 04-11-2012 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:10 PM   #6515
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Default CVA Bone Blades

Are the bone blades of the TC6 and the TC6.1 the same?
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:59 PM   #6516
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Are the bone blades of the TC6 and the TC6.1 the same?
Yep

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Old 04-11-2012, 01:59 PM   #6517
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Are the bone blades of the TC6 and the TC6.1 the same?
yes
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:11 PM   #6518
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When i put my front end together it has a bind in it at the steering blocks ( they are hard to turn). When i back out both the top ball stud and bottom b/h screw almost all the way then it loosens up.
I have tried washers under each and no change. It appears to me that the c hub bushings are not long enough and the stud and screw head are binding against the hub.
Has any one run in to this problem?
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:21 PM   #6519
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
When i put my front end together it has a bind in it at the steering blocks ( they are hard to turn). When i back out both the top ball stud and bottom b/h screw almost all the way then it loosens up.
I have tried washers under each and no change. It appears to me that the c hub bushings are not long enough and the stud and screw head are binding against the hub.
Has any one run in to this problem?
when i built my 6 i didnt, but when i updated to 6.1 parts i found this too, turns out one of the bushings were too short, didnt matter on the 6 parts, but with the recessed caster block it did.

i just binned it and used one of my spares

ed
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:34 PM   #6520
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Default TC6 composite spool outdrive 31341

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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
yes

These are for sale NOWHERE! Why is that?

Do these wear down fast?

I wanted to have some for spares. Isn't gonna happen because I can't buy them anywhere.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:37 PM   #6521
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We will have some T6 7075 Hard Anodized aluminum spool cups early next week, barring any out of the ordinary hold ups.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:38 PM   #6522
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Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal View Post
when i built my 6 i didnt, but when i updated to 6.1 parts i found this too, turns out one of the bushings were too short, didnt matter on the 6 parts, but with the recessed caster block it did.

i just binned it and used one of my spares

ed
I just put the micrometer on the bushings and they don't mearuse the same, as much as .05mm diff from smallest to largest ,4mm to 3.95mm.
that is dissappointing to find out. I wanted to race this weekend with a brand new car and now I have no parts to fix or change on the car untill somtime next week when I can order new parts. What is even more dissappointing is that a brand new car has to have either new parts or use ones from a different car. I sold my X-Ray in favor of the 6.1 and now I wonder if I did the right thing or did I just waste my money.
Sorry Associated not tryin to slam your stuff as I have been a Associated fan since the 10LSS days and I have never run in to this type of problem. I have contacted Associated and they are sending me new bushings but as to when they will get here or if they even will be right remains to be seen.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:40 PM   #6523
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
These are for sale NOWHERE! Why is that?

Do these wear down fast?

I wanted to have some for spares. Isn't gonna happen because I can't buy them anywhere.
the blades for the tc5, tc6 and tc6.1 are the same.

i can see them on amain, stormer, tower hobbies even on the associated site

just look for the part number 31238

Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 04-11-2012 at 02:42 PM. Reason: added part number
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:01 PM   #6524
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
These are for sale NOWHERE! Why is that?

Do these wear down fast?

I wanted to have some for spares. Isn't gonna happen because I can't buy them anywhere.
They do not wear, they can be damaged if a blade breaks.
Associated has had those for spares and sold them. So they must be in the supply chain some where.We had them as recently as 2 weeks ago.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:04 PM   #6525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairy View Post
When i put my front end together it has a bind in it at the steering blocks ( they are hard to turn). When i back out both the top ball stud and bottom b/h screw almost all the way then it loosens up.
I have tried washers under each and no change. It appears to me that the c hub bushings are not long enough and the stud and screw head are binding against the hub.
Has any one run in to this problem?
On the 6.1 caster blocks I filed the area where the bushings go, top and bottom. They are not perfectly flat so it raises the bushing up just slightly.
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