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Old 04-08-2012, 03:38 AM   #6496
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Default TC6 Composite Spool Outdrive #31341

Do these wear out fast?
I'm asking because I want to stack some spares but they are very hard to get my hands on.

Last edited by Kensei; 04-08-2012 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:41 AM   #6497
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Hi y'all,

Can the screws in the topdeck of the 6.1 be used for flex tuning?
Screws in stiffer, screws out more flex, and so on.
Which screws to do what with to accomplish what?

Any experience?

Or is the topdeck of this car not meant to be used that way?

And how about cutting the topdeck to get more flex to have more grip under low grip circumstances?
If an option, where to cut it? Dremel the material off that is in between the fork in the back?
Or in the front where there is a hole and cut the material out that's in front of that?

The blanc setup sheets have no option to fill in a category on topdeckflex.
And the manual doesn't say anything about it.
just flip the topdeck and mount it with button screws, that will give you a little more flex
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:17 PM   #6498
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Default Sanwa MT-4

Got this transmitter and with it came two Sanwa SRM-102 servos.

I think these are not much of a servo.

Would they last in a TC6.1 for clubracing and an occasional nats?

Or just toss them aside and buy me a decent Sanwa servo like, for instance, the SDX-801?
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:31 PM   #6499
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Default Gear diff / spool / diff options

I run on a smallish indoor carpet track (20m x 10m) and I've just bought a 2nd hand TC6. It came with a spool in the front and a diff in the rear and was a pig to drive (back end kept breaking away coming out of corners).

I'm running 17.5 blinky with 40wt oil all round and 2 hole pistons. Silver springs front and green rear.

As I've never been able to get on with a spool, I've bought a gear diff. Is it better to use this at the rear and move the diff to the front or run the gear diff in the front and keep the rear diff as is? What weight oil should I use in the gear diff?

Thanks for any advice
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:36 PM   #6500
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I would let the balldiff in the rear and put the geardiff in front. Depending on the oil you use you can reduce the spinning of the inner wheel on corner exit while still having a diff at front feeling.
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:30 AM   #6501
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dear all, i badly need help on setting a car tweak, i trying to understand and imagine the way keven teach, i even translate it on the google for my language (chinese) but i still can not figure it out.

can anyone show me the way to setting a car tweak with the most simple way and the most easy understand way? if possible, a video or picture would be much more better, thanks in advance.

what i wish to learn is, how to check if your car is tweaked, and how to solve it.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:32 AM   #6502
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Hey, try this video, around minute 4.50.

Jilles Groskamp Tips 4
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:36 AM   #6503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Hey, try this video, around minute 4.50.

Jilles Groskamp Tips 4
+1. Watch the entire series of the videos featuring Groskamp. Lots to learn for everybody.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:06 AM   #6504
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Hey, try this video, around minute 4.50.

Jilles Groskamp Tips 4
Thanks buddy, i will take my time to watch all the series.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:00 AM   #6505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
The AE vertical camber mounts are in stock and shipping.

31372 VBS bearing cap (A) requires 2 per car
31373 VBS bearing cap (B) requires 2 per car
31376 VBS front shock tower
31377 VBS rear shock tower

I'm not sure if the towers are necessary but a nice addition.
They are the same as stock just no camber mount pad.

There is a new number ball stud that has not arrived yet that has shorter threads. Just check to be sure that if the threads go through that they don't interfere with anything.

Short camber link hole with black ball stud, no washers = camber link #3
Any where in stock yet?
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:20 AM   #6506
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Any where in stock yet?
www.rc10.com

Team Associated has them instock and shipping.

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Old 04-10-2012, 05:09 PM   #6507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Hi y'all,

Can the screws in the topdeck of the 6.1 be used for flex tuning?
Screws in stiffer, screws out more flex, and so on.
Which screws to do what with to accomplish what?

Any experience?

Or is the topdeck of this car not meant to be used that way?

And how about cutting the topdeck to get more flex to have more grip under low grip circumstances?
If an option, where to cut it? Dremel the material off that is in between the fork in the back?
Or in the front where there is a hole and cut the material out that's in front of that?

The blanc setup sheets have no option to fill in a category on topdeckflex.
And the manual doesn't say anything about it.
Tried this technique 2 weeks ago over 2 days of testing and yes, it works fantastic. Started removing pairs on the rear top deck first (I used washers and shock o-rings under screws) to keep some tension on topdeck and adjust to desired chassis flex to suit track requirements. Most notably, picked up alot of corner speed and more planted handling characteristic from the car through out race course. The top deck flip, as mentioned works well also. I am sure the use of this technique depends on the surface you are racing on. (currently using on outdoor asphalt).
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Last edited by rangerjkb; 04-11-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:56 PM   #6508
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In need of a little clarification on the whole top deck thing. Every setup guide/video shows the very precise method of tightening (everything up to and including) the top deck to eliminate tweak and setup the car. On the flip side, we have the discussions about loosening, flipping, and/or cutting the top deck to add flex. Both ideas make sense, just a bit unclear on the gray area between both schools of thought.

If you have everything ELSE tightened down and a car with no tweak, is that alone enough to be able to loosen/cut the top deck without worry? By cutting/loosening the top deck, is it just assumed that the car will flex back to it's original state or does the risk of a tweaked car increase with the changes? Is it a trade-off between the two on some level?
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:01 AM   #6509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasagnaCat View Post
In need of a little clarification on the whole top deck thing. Every setup guide/video shows the very precise method of tightening (everything up to and including) the top deck to eliminate tweak and setup the car. On the flip side, we have the discussions about loosening, flipping, and/or cutting the top deck to add flex. Both ideas make sense, just a bit unclear on the gray area between both schools of thought.

If you have everything ELSE tightened down and a car with no tweak, is that alone enough to be able to loosen/cut the top deck without worry? By cutting/loosening the top deck, is it just assumed that the car will flex back to it's original state or does the risk of a tweaked car increase with the changes? Is it a trade-off between the two on some level?
It's actually the other way round. It's generally the top-deck that causes tweak; if you had no top-deck, the car would never tweak. This is why tub chassis cars were popular for a while, and why Schumacher made the Axis2 with turnbuckles instead of a topdeck (yes really!).

So ideally you want a fairly stiff chassis, and a flexy top-deck, as this reduces the chance of the car tweaking. This is exactly what the TC6 comes with (no cutouts in the chassis and a skinny topdeck), and in my experience it hardly ever tweaks. Cutting the topdeck will add flex and reduce the chance of tweak further.

Removing screws (apart from the ones into the layshaft bulkhead, which everyone removes) may increase the chance of tweak, as you've got less screws holding the top-deck where it belongs. But not tried this myself.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:44 AM   #6510
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Are there any plans for a TC6.2 with the new vertical ballstuds and shock towers? A running upgrade would be nice - by that I mean new kits would have the new parts.
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