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Old 03-30-2012, 10:17 AM   #6406
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Originally Posted by ChampRC View Post
Hey guys, I'm currently running this motor: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T.

Other than adjustable timing can one 17.5T motor be faster than another?
Why is this one so cheap compared to other stock 17.5T motors without adjustable timing?

I run this motor and feel its alittle slow compared to alot of guys I race with, even with boost set to max on my RSpro.

I'm running a FDR of 4.93 and getting temps around 140F after 5 min runs.
Using a turnigy 2s battery 5000mah at 30-40C.

Any suggestions on a quality 17.5T motor...with timing?
I know driving has most to do with lap times, but I'm interested in knowing how to judge a good 17.5T motor, for mod racing of course.
This motor is adjustable and you can advance the timing on it. If you loosen the 3 black screws on the end of the motor and rotate the plate counter clockwise you will advance the timing. there are no markings so there is no way to tell how much you are advancing it but it is able to be advanced. Standard the motor has about 30deg in it so dont advance it too much.

The reason its so much cheaper is that it uses a steel can so it cost less to make....but this also means that it will run hotter then most other motors because the steel can traps the heat inside of the motor. Also this motor is much heavier then other motors as well.

If you want a faster motor ask what other racers are using at your track and use the same motor and setup they are.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:20 AM   #6407
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Originally Posted by HenryC View Post
The part number for the arm mount set is the same between the TC6 and TC6.1. I will keep checking your site and order and a set when they are available.

Henry
Thank you for the info Henry, I knew the arms changed but wasn't sure of the mounts.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:39 AM   #6408
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
You can use the same dogbones. The new ones are slightly shorter, but the old ones still fit no problem
Thanks! That saves me some bones $$$
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:51 AM   #6409
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Hi Guys,

Need some advice on which pinion gear to use..
I am using a 5500KV castle Creations Engine and an 87Spar Gear on my TC6.1
What is the best Pinion to use .. How many tooth.. Don't want to end up with a burned engine..

Thanks a million

Cheers,
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:56 AM   #6410
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Can't find them in your store...
TC6 CVJ

Any news on these?
Want to buy them, but they are not on there website.
Where do you guys get these?
Or better mail them and ask?

Last edited by Kensei; 03-30-2012 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:26 PM   #6411
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Could anyone help with a starting point on FDR for medium size outdoor asphalt track. Orion r10 pro Novak 17.5 boosted combo. Thank you! First time with electric car.
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:50 PM   #6412
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Thank you for the info Henry, I knew the arms changed but wasn't sure of the mounts.
The TC6.1 has the new offset arm mounts. They are the same as the TC6 arm mounts with a 2mm spacer behind them. The TC6.1 still uses the non-offset mounts at the front of the rear hinge pin, though.

-Mike
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:03 PM   #6413
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
TC6 CVJ

Any news on these?
Want to buy them, but they are not on there website.
Where do you guys get these?
Or better mail them and ask?
I see a few of the team drivers are using the ones made for the Hotbodies TCX. I'm curentley waiting on Reflex Racing to release theirs
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:18 PM   #6414
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
The TC6.1 has the new offset arm mounts. They are the same as the TC6 arm mounts with a 2mm spacer behind them. The TC6.1 still uses the non-offset mounts at the front of the rear hinge pin, though.

-Mike
The new mounts are offset because they are 2mm wider at the base near the hinge pin. I use offset mounts at every corner with 12R5 shims with no issues.

Mike
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:33 PM   #6415
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Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
What sold me to the Dial-A-Grips was after I drove the car at half throttle for a few minutes and the came off loose.
While there's nothing wrong with the DAG's, the stock parts work fine with a dab of thread-lock. I did buy some longer (16 or 18mm?) screws, but have had zero issues with the blocks coming loose on two cars with a full season on them. I can see where it would be nice only needing the one (or two) sets of blocks that will last forever instead of four sets of plastic that will eventually wear.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:20 PM   #6416
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Originally Posted by Big Features View Post
The new mounts are offset because they are 2mm wider at the base near the hinge pin. I use offset mounts at every corner with 12R5 shims with no issues.

Mike
So is the new 6.1 running wider wheelbase or did something else change to bring it back like shorter arm or new C hub? The dial a grip blocks are +1mm over the TC6 stock mount blocks so possibly just 1mm shim for the 6.1?

I'm very curious why they did this and what end benefit was.

Looks like I'll get some shop time this weekend, so those that PMed me check the website later Sunday.
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Last edited by Verndog; 03-30-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:54 PM   #6417
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So is the new 6.1 running wider wheelbase or did something else change to bring it back like shorter arm or new C hub? The dial a grip blocks are +1mm over the TC6 stock mount blocks so possibly just 1mm shim for the 6.1?

I'm very curious why they did this and what end benefit was.

Looks like I'll get some shop time this weekend, so those that PMed me check the website later Sunday.
From AE:

Offset arm mounts help increase durability and minimize shims between mount and bulkhead

Any plans on modifying the dial a grips to match the 6.1 offset?
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:28 PM   #6418
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
From AE:

Offset arm mounts help increase durability and minimize shims between mount and bulkhead

Any plans on modifying the dial a grips to match the 6.1 offset?
Not sure, this is new info to me. Given that if I offset the pin hole that will now make a left and right mount, or make them thicker overall, and that can run into interference / clearance issues with certain setups....at this point the lesser of all evils is add 1mm shim for 6.1 front applications. There is no durability issue with the dial a grips, unless they are talking about other parts.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:01 AM   #6419
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Does the kit come with only the 0.9m and 1.1mm or also other thickness?

Which spare parts do I surely have to carry for the TC6.1?

- pinions?
- belts?
- cva blades?

other parts that go bust frequently racing this car?

Last edited by Kensei; 04-01-2012 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:48 PM   #6420
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Not sure, this is new info to me. Given that if I offset the pin hole that will now make a left and right mount, or make them thicker overall, and that can run into interference / clearance issues with certain setups....at this point the lesser of all evils is add 1mm shim for 6.1 front applications. There is no durability issue with the dial a grips, unless they are talking about other parts.
I'm not sure why making the dial-a-grips have another 1mm of offset would make a left and right mount. The offset isn't to change wheelbase, it's to change track width at the hinge pin. The offset is to move the hinge pin outward away from the bulkhead, so you don't have to put so many shims against the bulkhead. Less shims = less bent screws and less block rotation.

There's one other small difference with the offset blocks: the aluminum insert doesn't quite reach all the way through it. So when you tighten the screw down until the insert touches the bulkhead, it squeezes the block quite tightly. That helps keep the blocks from rotating as much. I'm guessing your dial-a-grips don't use the insert, so it's probably doesn't affect your design.

EDIT: I just checked the pictures on your site, and your concern makes more sense. With the AE blocks, there's two version of each block, depending on which end of the hinge pin the block goes on. But it looks like with your blocks, they're symmetrical and you just flip it one way for one end of the pin, and the other way for the other end. So to add another 1mm of offset from the bulkhead, you'd have to make the block another 2mm thicker, or offset the hole making two different blocks. Also, the TC6.1 uses offset blocks in only 6 out of 8 positions. The front of the rear hingepins still uses the non-offset block.

-Mike
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