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Old 03-26-2012, 01:22 PM   #6346
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I currently race with a TC6 in VTA and was wondering do I have to convert it to a TC6.1 before I can use DCJ'S? Im thinking about using the hotbodies or soon to be released Reflex racing ones.
You can use the hotbodies DCJ on the TC6 with the stock steering blocks, castor blocks (must be dremeled open), blades (must be drilled to a wider diameter), and front arms. I didn't have to buy any TC6.1 parts to do the conversion on my kit. What you will need are 2x10mm drive pins (should come with most wheel hex kits), 5mm shims to space the drive pin/bearing (I used Tamiya shim kit), 5x10x3 bearings (quantity 4 from AvidRC), and new hexes (I'm using Yeah Racing 5mm hexes).

This is how I had mine setup originally but I wanted to move over to a more standardized bearing size so I got a pair of TC6.1 steering blocks and crush washers. This allowed me to use the more popular 5x10x4 bearings which I have from other cars.


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Old 03-26-2012, 07:00 PM   #6347
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What is the reasoning for going from 6x10 to 5x10 bearing in the rear hubs and steering knuckles?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:05 PM   #6348
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The hotbodies DCJ's have a different size axle diameter.

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What is the reasoning for going from 6x10 to 5x10 bearing in the rear hubs and steering knuckles?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:44 PM   #6349
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The hotbodies DCJ's have a different size axle diameter.

Yes, I understand that the Hotbodies DCJ's have a different axle size. I'm wondering why Associated went from 6x10 in the TC6 to 5x10 in the TC6.1. Associated made the change for some reason, I'm just wondering why.

Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:03 PM   #6350
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The 5x10 bearings have larger balls, so they are more durable.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:01 AM   #6351
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The 5x10 bearings have larger balls, so they are more durable.
Thanks kind of what I though, but I didn't know if there is a performance reason also.

Thanks.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:12 AM   #6352
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Thanks kind of what I though, but I didn't know if there is a performance reason also.

Thanks.
Yes, bearings that aren't broken perform better
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:13 AM   #6353
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Originally Posted by StewartFan20 View Post
Thanks kind of what I though, but I didn't know if there is a performance reason also.

Thanks.
The 5x10x4 bearing better supports the axle due to the extra width compaired to the 6x10x3.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:38 AM   #6354
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Default Adjusting rear toe

trying to figure out how to adjust the toe in? is it mechanical or a part that is needed I'm following a couple of setup guides from racing in jacksonville florida which would be the closes to what i will see this summer....Currently using my setup station I'm at 1 degree toe in need to get it to 2.5...

Thanks guys!
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:10 AM   #6355
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
trying to figure out how to adjust the toe in? is it mechanical or a part that is needed I'm following a couple of setup guides from racing in jacksonville florida which would be the closes to what i will see this summer....Currently using my setup station I'm at 1 degree toe in need to get it to 2.5...

Thanks guys!
You need to adjust how many shims there are between the two rear arm mounts. For 2.5*, you will want about 2mm more shims on the rear rear arm mount than the front rear arm mount
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:10 AM   #6356
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
trying to figure out how to adjust the toe in? is it mechanical or a part that is needed I'm following a couple of setup guides from racing in jacksonville florida which would be the closes to what i will see this summer....Currently using my setup station I'm at 1 degree toe in need to get it to 2.5...

Thanks guys!
Inboard toe would be increased by adding shims to the arm mounts. You can also increase outboard with your rear hubs, but we usually only run inboard rear toe these days.

Check out the "arm mount position" section on page 27 in the TC6.1 manual.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:13 AM   #6357
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
You need to adjust how many shims there are between the two rear arm mounts. For 2.5*, you will want about 2mm more shims on the rear rear arm mount than the front rear arm mount
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Originally Posted by Maybell View Post
Inboard toe would be increased by adding shims to the arm mounts. You can also increase outboard with your rear hubs, but we usually only run inboard rear toe these days.
Ok so i have two silver squares on the rear should i place the shim there? do i use the plastic ones that came with it?
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:30 PM   #6358
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Yes, bearings that aren't broken perform better

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Old 03-27-2012, 12:46 PM   #6359
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Ok so i have two silver squares on the rear should i place the shim there? do i use the plastic ones that came with it?
We are increasing the angle of the inner hinge pins by adding shims to the 2 arm mounts that are closest to the rear of the car. The arm mounts are the "square ish" shaped plastic parts that you slide a Arm Mount Bushing into. If you add shims inbetween those arm mounts and the bulkheads, this increases the angle of the pins, therefore increasing your rear toe-in.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:36 PM   #6360
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Originally Posted by Maybell View Post
We are increasing the angle of the inner hinge pins by adding shims to the 2 arm mounts that are closest to the rear of the car. The arm mounts are the "square ish" shaped plastic parts that you slide a Arm Mount Bushing into. If you add shims inbetween those arm mounts and the bulkheads, this increases the angle of the pins, therefore increasing your rear toe-in.
ok so don't use the shims with the horseshoe shape?
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