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Old 03-20-2012, 10:11 PM   #6286
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In my opinion about the lw body vrs the reg body is the lw body actually tends to crack less then the reg because it tends to have a bit of flex rather than the reg body is thicker and instead of the flex it just cracks special at the wheel wells. (stress cracks) This is also in 1/12 many racer are affraid or shy away from the lw bodys cause right away they think it will last less then there rw...

I mean dont get me wrong the lw will crack also but it seems to be more around the body post area..

But always u need to have the body mounted and set right with the bumpers and body mounts... Bumpers are def a dual purpose part.. def to support front of the body so trimming and conturing it to fit bodys is the ideal aid to long lasting bodys.. If u tend to use different style bodys grab another front foam bumper specially trimed for that style body.. (lets be honest here specially in 1/12 what really does that little peice of foam really do in a impact? NOTHINg but supports the body.. the chassis still hits and takes the brunt of the hard hit.. the chassis protectors are the aid for that..)

Handling wise hands down the LW is by far best.. Car companys design the car to get the center of gravity low and weight balnce out through out the chassis. the Reg weight body defeats the whole purpose in my eyes. It makes for a lazy illhandleing car.. You can feel instantly the diff between the 2..



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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I haven't found a big difference in fragility. The thicker ones don't give as much before cracking. But cracks can propagate faster in lightweight ones. Once I tried a lightweight, I can't bring myself to back to regular weight. The car just works so much better with the lightweight, particularly in terms of resisting traction roll.

-Mike
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:32 PM   #6287
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Originally Posted by rosey1990 View Post
Thanks for your input Steve. I'm already running 3 degrees of rear toe in, however I will try running thinner oil in the rear gear diff (currently using 40wt associated oil). I figured I'd type my set-up out as per the set-up sheet in the manual, just in case you can see any other area for improvement.

Ride height: 5.2mm all round
Camber: Front = 1.5deg. Rear = 2deg
Caster: 4deg
Toe: Front = 0deg. Rear = 3 deg
Wheelbase: Front = 2mm, Rear = 1mm
Steering Bellcrank: 7B
Steering link: 2B
Bumpsteer: black stud

Shock position: Front = 3B. Rear = 2B
Camber link position: Front = 7. Rear = 3A
Outer ball and shims: Front = 1mm. Rear = 2mm
FWD arm mount: Front = 3A. Rear = 3A
FWD mount shim: Front = OS. Rear = 0.5mm
RWD arm mount: Front = 3A. Rear = 3A
RWD arm shim: Front = OS. Rear = 1mm OS
Droop: Front = 6mm. Rear = 5mm
Anti roll bar: Front = silver. Rear = black (both using original TC6 roll bars)

Shock oil: 40wt all round
Springs: Silver all round
Piston: 2 hole all round
Rebound: 50% all round

Battery in 'back' position.
LCT-R lightweight bodyshell



Thanks
I would also try going to a thicker oil up front in the shocks (45 or 47.5), and thinner oil in back (37.5 or 35) and run green springs on the rear shocks
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:25 PM   #6288
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where did you pick up these items?
rcmarket.com.hk
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:37 AM   #6289
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
hey guys i have a TC6, and i have a LTC-R body but the foam bumper has pushed the wheels wells forward.....im using this body for practice but i will be grabbing another body for racing and i was wondering have any of you had to adjust the foam or are you using a different foam?

Any ideas would be helpful!!!

Loving my TC6.......i'll catch the 6.1 once i can drive better lol
I had the same problem. I ground the foam bumper down a bit so the body would fit properly. I tried several methods to trim the bumper but found a wire brush on my drill worked the best.
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:43 AM   #6290
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Originally Posted by HenryC View Post
I had the same problem. I ground the foam bumper down a bit so the body would fit properly. I tried several methods to trim the bumper but found a wire brush on my drill worked the best.
hi!

mazda speed 6 lw or standard, just add 4 mmm washer under front body post

for my new 6.1 I did not bumper modification

and with better body cut car is much better

regards!
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:02 AM   #6291
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Originally Posted by Jonesy112 View Post
I would also try going to a thicker oil up front in the shocks (45 or 47.5), and thinner oil in back (37.5 or 35) and run green springs on the rear shocks
I agree...... 45/35 with Reflex pistons/bladders and 0 rebound seems to work on every layout and surface I've ran on!
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:23 AM   #6292
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I had the same problem. I ground the foam bumper down a bit so the body would fit properly. I tried several methods to trim the bumper but found a wire brush on my drill worked the best.
thanks i guess thats what i will good thing i grabbed one from harbor freight.....lol

Daryl
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:07 AM   #6293
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
thanks i guess thats what i will good thing i grabbed one from harbor freight.....lol

Daryl
A sharp Xacto blade works well, too. "Carve" it out, then the wire brush or light sandpaper to smooth out the edges
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:53 AM   #6294
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
A sharp Xacto blade works well, too. "Carve" it out, then the wire brush or light sandpaper to smooth out the edges
I think I'm going to grab another bumper carve that one to fit the race body and swap then at the track
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:59 AM   #6295
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Default Battery tape or alternative

I'm going to be real I really don't feel like spending 20 for some brand name tape.... Any one using anything else our no where to get some inexpensive solution?


Thanks
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:12 PM   #6296
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I made a strap from an old camera strap, and never looked back since. Works good for carpet. Don't know how well it would work for a more bumpy asphalt track tho.

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Old 03-21-2012, 01:19 PM   #6297
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
I'm going to be real I really don't feel like spending 20 for some brand name tape.... Any one using anything else our no where to get some inexpensive solution?


Thanks
I thought that way, too. I picked up some fiber-reinforced strapping tape at my hardware store for like $4. It worked, but it sucked. It fell apart when I peeled it off, and just made a mess. If I was in a rush to get the car on track, I didn't want to be spending 5 minutes cleaning strands of fiberglass stuck to my chassis.

I slummed a piece of Hudy tape from another racer, once, and never looked back, I just bit the bullet and bought a roll. Yeah, it's hella spendy, but there's a LOT of tape there. I've been on the same roll for like two years, and it will probably last me another 2, even changing tape every couple races as it loses stickiness. It's strong, it's nice and thin, it comes off clean... It's just good stuff.

I don't know if there are other brands out there with similar quality at a lower price. But be sure to look at how big the roll is. I seem to remember looking, and finding other brands that were half the price, but also half the roll size, so really the same price. I knew the Hudy stuff was good and didn't want to drop cash on something that was just a re-brand of the same stuff I got at the hardware store.

However.... if I had found something easily accessible in purple, I would have been forced to try that to match my Schui.

-Mike
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:47 PM   #6298
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I thought that way, too. I picked up some fiber-reinforced strapping tape at my hardware store for like $4. It worked, but it sucked. It fell apart when I peeled it off, and just made a mess. If I was in a rush to get the car on track, I didn't want to be spending 5 minutes cleaning strands of fiberglass stuck to my chassis.

I slummed a piece of Hudy tape from another racer, once, and never looked back, I just bit the bullet and bought a roll. Yeah, it's hella spendy, but there's a LOT of tape there. I've been on the same roll for like two years, and it will probably last me another 2, even changing tape every couple races as it loses stickiness. It's strong, it's nice and thin, it comes off clean... It's just good stuff.

I don't know if there are other brands out there with similar quality at a lower price. But be sure to look at how big the roll is. I seem to remember looking, and finding other brands that were half the price, but also half the roll size, so really the same price. I knew the Hudy stuff was good and didn't want to drop cash on something that was just a re-brand of the same stuff I got at the hardware store.

However.... if I had found something easily accessible in purple, I would have been forced to try that to match my Schui.

-Mike
Thanks Mike

i guess my issue was how long the rolls would last i guess amain here i come!!!
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:30 PM   #6299
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Thanks for the input on the lightweight vs reg weight bodies guys

I think i'm gonna try one in the near future to see myself how much better my car will handle and how a lightweight will hold up.
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:22 PM   #6300
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Hi all
When building the AE gear diff has anyone had problems
with the small o-ring.
( i split one)
Thanks in advance
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