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Old 03-19-2012, 04:44 PM   #6271
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When going from the TC6 to the TC6.1, is it possible to just get the CVA axle and use the existing CVA bone, or is a new CVA bone required because of the change in the arms?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:48 PM   #6272
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The bones are different part numbers.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:25 PM   #6273
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I'm pretty new to the onroad scene and just wondering if it's really worth it to run lightweight bodies? I read about guys saying it's a big improvement, but i'm just worried about trashing a body after a night or two of races or practice.

How fragile are they compared to the normal weight bodies?
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:45 PM   #6274
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Originally Posted by StewartFan20 View Post
When going from the TC6 to the TC6.1, is it possible to just get the CVA axle and use the existing CVA bone, or is a new CVA bone required because of the change in the arms?

Thanks in advance.
thats what i did, just replaced the axel works fine

ed

Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 03-19-2012 at 07:45 PM. Reason: cant spell
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:21 PM   #6275
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i got 7075 BULKHEAD, 7075 UPPER BULKHEAD, 2.25mm Carbon Chassis from HK
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:24 PM   #6276
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Originally Posted by WillD View Post
I'm pretty new to the onroad scene and just wondering if it's really worth it to run lightweight bodies? I read about guys saying it's a big improvement, but i'm just worried about trashing a body after a night or two of races or practice.

How fragile are they compared to the normal weight bodies?
I haven't found a big difference in fragility. The thicker ones don't give as much before cracking. But cracks can propagate faster in lightweight ones. Once I tried a lightweight, I can't bring myself to back to regular weight. The car just works so much better with the lightweight, particularly in terms of resisting traction roll.

-Mike
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:17 PM   #6277
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I'm really enjoying driving my TC6.1, it's a great improvement over the original TC6 imo. It has bags of steering, therefore is awesome on the tight and technical tracks.

My only complaint would be that the car lacks rear traction out of slow corners. I race on a low-med grip, medium sized astro carpet, using Schumacher Mini-pin tyres (foam inserts). There are two of us racing the TC6.1 and both are suffering from this issue. The car is OK when applying the throttle very progressively, but is particularly tail happy when exiting corners on power. This makes for a car that is very difficult to drive fast consistently.

I've attached my current set-up to this post. Now I've tried a couple of things like switching to AE green springs on the rear, which makes the car easier to drive on old tyres, but doesn't cure the traction problems. I've also gone from number 3 on the front inboard camber link, to position 7, which again made the car easier to drive, but didn't help traction (which is to be expected).

Perhaps Rick or someone who has experienced a similar problem, would be kind enough to look at my setup and provide suggestions for improvement.

Thanks in advance
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File Type: zip TC6.1 Editable Setup Sheet trowse.zip (475 Bytes, 36 views)
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:56 PM   #6278
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Originally Posted by rosey1990 View Post
I'm really enjoying driving my TC6.1, it's a great improvement over the original TC6 imo. It has bags of steering, therefore is awesome on the tight and technical tracks.

My only complaint would be that the car lacks rear traction out of slow corners. I race on a low-med grip, medium sized astro carpet, using Schumacher Mini-pin tyres (foam inserts). There are two of us racing the TC6.1 and both are suffering from this issue. The car is OK when applying the throttle very progressively, but is particularly tail happy when exiting corners on power. This makes for a car that is very difficult to drive fast consistently.

I've attached my current set-up to this post. Now I've tried a couple of things like switching to AE green springs on the rear, which makes the car easier to drive on old tyres, but doesn't cure the traction problems. I've also gone from number 3 on the front inboard camber link, to position 7, which again made the car easier to drive, but didn't help traction (which is to be expected).

Perhaps Rick or someone who has experienced a similar problem, would be kind enough to look at my setup and provide suggestions for improvement.

Thanks in advance
Unfortunately I couldn't open your setup sheet to take a look.... but I figured I would make some recommendations based on my experiences:

1.) Make sure you have enough rear toe in... personally, I almost always run around 3 degrees of toe in per side... this amounts to 2.5 mm difference per side between the front and rear shims in the rear.

If the track is especially loose, I might run even more than 3 degrees.

2.) Make sure your rear diff fluid is not too thick... too thick can cause the car to lose on power traction like you are experiencing... on carpet I run anywhere between 30 and 35 wt associated oil in the associated gear diff.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:35 PM   #6279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Unfortunately I couldn't open your setup sheet to take a look.... but I figured I would make some recommendations based on my experiences:

1.) Make sure you have enough rear toe in... personally, I almost always run around 3 degrees of toe in per side... this amounts to 2.5 mm difference per side between the front and rear shims in the rear.

If the track is especially loose, I might run even more than 3 degrees.

2.) Make sure your rear diff fluid is not too thick... too thick can cause the car to lose on power traction like you are experiencing... on carpet I run anywhere between 30 and 35 wt associated oil in the associated gear diff.

Hope this helps
I have also noticed that the 6.1 seems to like about .5 degree more rear toe than the 6. I usually ran my 6 at 2.5 to 3 degrees, with the 6.1 to acheive the same feel i run 3 to 3.5
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:40 PM   #6280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Unfortunately I couldn't open your setup sheet to take a look.... but I figured I would make some recommendations based on my experiences:

1.) Make sure you have enough rear toe in... personally, I almost always run around 3 degrees of toe in per side... this amounts to 2.5 mm difference per side between the front and rear shims in the rear.

If the track is especially loose, I might run even more than 3 degrees.

2.) Make sure your rear diff fluid is not too thick... too thick can cause the car to lose on power traction like you are experiencing... on carpet I run anywhere between 30 and 35 wt associated oil in the associated gear diff.

Hope this helps
Thanks for your input Steve. I'm already running 3 degrees of rear toe in, however I will try running thinner oil in the rear gear diff (currently using 40wt associated oil). I figured I'd type my set-up out as per the set-up sheet in the manual, just in case you can see any other area for improvement.

Ride height: 5.2mm all round
Camber: Front = 1.5deg. Rear = 2deg
Caster: 4deg
Toe: Front = 0deg. Rear = 3 deg
Wheelbase: Front = 2mm, Rear = 1mm
Steering Bellcrank: 7B
Steering link: 2B
Bumpsteer: black stud

Shock position: Front = 3B. Rear = 2B
Camber link position: Front = 7. Rear = 3A
Outer ball and shims: Front = 1mm. Rear = 2mm
FWD arm mount: Front = 3A. Rear = 3A
FWD mount shim: Front = OS. Rear = 0.5mm
RWD arm mount: Front = 3A. Rear = 3A
RWD arm shim: Front = OS. Rear = 1mm OS
Droop: Front = 6mm. Rear = 5mm
Anti roll bar: Front = silver. Rear = black (both using original TC6 roll bars)

Shock oil: 40wt all round
Springs: Silver all round
Piston: 2 hole all round
Rebound: 50% all round

Battery in 'back' position.
LCT-R lightweight bodyshell



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Old 03-20-2012, 05:11 PM   #6281
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Does the TC6.1 spool tend to work better with the outdrives aligned, or offset 90 degrees from each other?

-Mike
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #6282
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Does the TC6.1 spool tend to work better with the outdrives aligned, or offset 90 degrees from each other?

-Mike
I've found that there is actually a tiny bit less chatter with the outdrives offset.

Mike
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:47 PM   #6283
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Originally Posted by asuradahk001 View Post
i got 7075 BULKHEAD, 7075 UPPER BULKHEAD, 2.25mm Carbon Chassis from HK
where did you pick up these items?
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:51 PM   #6284
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Default Body Adjustment

hey guys i have a TC6, and i have a LTC-R body but the foam bumper has pushed the wheels wells forward.....im using this body for practice but i will be grabbing another body for racing and i was wondering have any of you had to adjust the foam or are you using a different foam?

Any ideas would be helpful!!!

Loving my TC6.......i'll catch the 6.1 once i can drive better lol
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:08 PM   #6285
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I'm running a Mazda6 body and I had to dremel the top front of the bumper so it would fit proper under the shell.
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