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Old 02-20-2012, 09:02 PM   #5866
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I bought a TC-6 back in December and only got it built a few weeks ago. Now I havent built or raced an on road car for about 10 years. The last sedan I built was a TC-3....and that was when it first came out.
I was sort of disapointed with the instructions....for one there was no mention of thread lock antwhere. I was always taught to use thread lock on any screws that go into an aluminium part. Also they seemed difficult to follow in general.
Also there were a few screws missing for a section, and then a handful of extras left over afterwards.
I took to an indoor asphalt track last week, and it handled like a brick on sand. No steering going into a turn,too much steering going through a turn, and then major push coming off a turn. A few guys at the track gave me few pointers that Im going to try before I take it back out to race, but over all Im not the least bit impressed.
I set the car up by the manual, thinking it would be a neutral set up, but it doesnt feel neutral at all.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:27 PM   #5867
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Originally Posted by piper48 View Post
I know most of you run the Reflex pistons or the stock #2's that come with the kit, but I've also heard others running the Losi #57's. What's the reason and advantages for running the Losi #57 over the stock #2's? If running the #57, do you couple them with different spring combo? We have a temp track 100x60 CRC ozite med to high grip that I would like to try the #57's on but I don't want to spend the day testing it since the track is temporary. Any constructive input would be much appreciated.
It's 110x48..
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:33 PM   #5868
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Originally Posted by tinman79 View Post
I bought a TC-6 back in December and only got it built a few weeks ago. Now I havent built or raced an on road car for about 10 years. The last sedan I built was a TC-3....and that was when it first came out.
I was sort of disapointed with the instructions....for one there was no mention of thread lock antwhere. I was always taught to use thread lock on any screws that go into an aluminium part. Also they seemed difficult to follow in general.
Also there were a few screws missing for a section, and then a handful of extras left over afterwards.
I took to an indoor asphalt track last week, and it handled like a brick on sand. No steering going into a turn,too much steering going through a turn, and then major push coming off a turn. A few guys at the track gave me few pointers that Im going to try before I take it back out to race, but over all Im not the least bit impressed.
I set the car up by the manual, thinking it would be a neutral set up, but it doesnt feel neutral at all.
You might want to go to the set-up section of the Team Associated web site and find a surface and class similar to what you plan to race and use that set-up as a base line.

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Old 02-21-2012, 03:53 AM   #5869
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A tc6 can be converted to a 6.1 as all parts are compatable but if you are gonna get serious it makes more sense getting the 6.1. The upgrades far out weigh the small price difference. Also, I find it very helpful in building my kit when getting something new or different.
thanks guess i will go with the tc6.1,and building is half the fun.i like knowing who put it together
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:10 PM   #5870
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who should i contact at ae regarding missig parts?

the carbon fibre pieces that hold the battery tape was nowere to be found in my kit..
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #5871
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
who should i contact at ae regarding missig parts?

the carbon fibre pieces that hold the battery tape was nowere to be found in my kit..

http://www.teamassociated.com/warranties/

Specifically the 'Items Missing' section.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:15 PM   #5872
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Default TC6 vs Tamiya 416X

I'm hoping that someone in this thread might have some experience also driving a 416X and could tell me the pros/cons of the cars heads up for indoor asphalt 17.5 racing. I'm looking at a couple of previously owned rollers and have been out of sedan racing for some time. TIA for any advice!

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Old 02-21-2012, 01:48 PM   #5873
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I'm hoping that someone in this thread might have some experience also driving a 416X and could tell me the pros/cons of the cars heads up for indoor asphalt 17.5 racing. I'm looking at a couple of previously owned rollers and have been out of sedan racing for some time. TIA for any advice!

Clay
I've been told by a local driver who has both a 6.1 and a 417x that the tuning window for the 417x is very narrow, whereas for the 6.0 and 6.1 a larger range of settings will work.

So, if you're up on your car setup, you could go with the 417x; if you're a 'set it and forget it' kind of guy, the 6.x would be the ticket.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:39 PM   #5874
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http://www.teamassociated.com/warranties/

Specifically the 'Items Missing' section.
thanks!


aaah, fill in a form, send it from sweden to usa, wait a couple of weeks... arghhh! an email and copy of the payment and invoice from the store should be enough.,

bought the car from hongkong

think i just have to go with the fact that the kit was badly packed and BUY the missing part myself...
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:26 PM   #5875
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Originally Posted by tinman79 View Post
I bought a TC-6 back in December and only got it built a few weeks ago. Now I havent built or raced an on road car for about 10 years. The last sedan I built was a TC-3....and that was when it first came out.
I was sort of disapointed with the instructions....for one there was no mention of thread lock antwhere. I was always taught to use thread lock on any screws that go into an aluminium part. Also they seemed difficult to follow in general.
Also there were a few screws missing for a section, and then a handful of extras left over afterwards.
I took to an indoor asphalt track last week, and it handled like a brick on sand. No steering going into a turn,too much steering going through a turn, and then major push coming off a turn. A few guys at the track gave me few pointers that Im going to try before I take it back out to race, but over all Im not the least bit impressed.
I set the car up by the manual, thinking it would be a neutral set up, but it doesnt feel neutral at all.
I agree, it was weird how the parts were bagged but luckily mine were all present. Regarding the threadlock some use it and some do not. My Corally never shed parts and I didn't use threadlock. Think it depends on the application and how the car is built. Associated might think the chance of a screw coming loose is a better outcome than someone with no experience drenching their car in threadlock or even worse, accidentally using the red stuff.

The kit setup is somewhat a compromise. I went to a slight variation on one of Hebert's setups from the initial build and months later, out of curiosity put on the kit set-up. IMO the kit set-up was very easy to drive on carpet but had no corner speed whatsoever. I ended going back to my own settings which are different than the Hebert settings I tried when I first built the car. I guess what I'm trying to say is there is a synergy between the driver and a setup. One driver's setup may not work for another. It took me a while to find settings I'm comfortable with but the car now works well for me and takes very little tuning from week to week. Stick with it. This is a great car and once you find what works for you, you'll be set.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:21 PM   #5876
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On my 6.1 I had stuff in different bags that were supposed to be together. Luckily my friend had a tc 6 and told me to look in all the bags before I built mine.. I setup my 6.1 to one of herberts setups just had to put 3 deg. toe in in the rear arms. She was at 0 deg. was to loose in the rear for asphalt. handles pretty dang good on sorex 28's
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:25 PM   #5877
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
thanks!


aaah, fill in a form, send it from sweden to usa, wait a couple of weeks... arghhh! an email and copy of the payment and invoice from the store should be enough.,

bought the car from hongkong

think i just have to go with the fact that the kit was badly packed and BUY the missing part myself...
I also had an issue with missing parts, and I just emailed them. They replied back requesting a list of part numbers, and they just sent them.

Great customer service!
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:38 PM   #5878
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Im getting close to getting my tc6.1 so I need to know what setup to put on it. Ill be running on a outdoor medium grip concrete track, this track used to be a go kart oval that our club turned into an on road course. Because the go kart track is higher in the middle of the track this creates elevation changes which are awesome. Ill be running a Novak VTA 25.5 motor and esc combo to race in the VTA class. I cant find any set ups on the AE site for my surface or the class im running, can you guys help me out?
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:08 PM   #5879
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Default a tc6 steering question

i am almost a complete newb to this sport, and i have a tc6 steering questions for you guys. hope somebody can help me out. i read through the entire tc6 forum and couldn't really find a good solution for the issue.

i have been running a tc6 for a couple months now. it's a really good car but i am finding it hard to get used to the steering. i used to drive a tamiya ta-06 which has a dual steering posts design. it gives only a little bit of ackerman producing a linear feel to cornering. while it was a slower car, i was able to drive more consistently. when i switched to the tc6, the single steering post design produces alot more ackerman and suddenly i am lost because it behaves complete different to my old car.

during corner entry the car is very predictable. however, from mid to exit corner, sometimes the car would suddenly gain more steering causing a little bit of 'over turning'. so i thought may be next time i can turn the wheel back to neutral earlier to prevent this. but then this happens inconsistently. it's really hard to predict comparing to the tamiya ta-06.

the result of this is sometimes i would be able to make a fast lap by luck. other times i could be behind that fast lap by up to 1.5 sec. it's not that i hit anything. there were no crash and no traffic. just my poor driving skill and a new car that i am not used to.

my only question is what steering characteristic i should be expecting from the tc6. may be some of you who drove a dual posts steering car before can help out? i really just want to drive this car more consistently. and not be 1+ sec behind a fast lap all the time. i just thought if for example, you hit a 12 sec lap once, that means the car is capable of doing it. it's odd that the average lap time is 13+ sec. am i making sense? or is that normal? considering the track is empty and it's open practice.

i am opened to all kinds of suggestion. may be it's not even the steering system that bothers me. may be it's tweaked somewhere. however, i am almost certain that the car is built without tweak. i followed suggestions from this forum closely. main chassis is flat. all links are free up. slipper spool is tight. car tracks straight on power and on brakes. if anyone has any idea why the car is behaving unpredictably during corners, please let me know. any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:40 PM   #5880
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Best thing is to get one of the experienced drivers at your track to try it. It could be any number of things wrong, and the ackerman is pretty low on the list.
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